Steve83

If that shop with a computer can't GUARANTEE that the distributor will fix it, I wouldn't let them do any work on it. And I'd be VERY tempted NOT to pay them for their NON-diagnosis. I'd tell them that, if the distributor doesn't fix it, you pay NOTHING for the diagnosis OR the new part (which stays in your engine). If they want to be paid, they have to ID the fault - it's that simple. That's what you're paying them to do. You don't need THEM to guess & throw part$ at it - YOU could do that yourself.

That's why, with vehicles this old, if you can't diagnose, repair, & maintain them yourself, you really shouldn't use them as daily-drivers. And since these trucks have no value as antiques or show vehicles, there's not much point in keeping one if you have to pay for repairs. This one repair (after all their guesses) could end up costing you more than the truck is worth.

I don't remember where I got those PNs - I compiled that caption MANY years ago, and PNs change occasionally. A site I trust for Ford PNs is https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-part...-v8-gas-engine . See what ICM it says fits your truck, and shop for the best price. But I'd snag a few from the local JYs - they're probably not but ~$20ea there, and it only takes an 8mm (5/16") socket or this little special tool to get them:


(phone app link)

SavaG35

Alright here we are months later, I had a lot of other things to deal with but now I have gotten back to the truck. My issue with the misfire was a bad ECM. I pulled it out and it was actually a remanufactered one so using car-part.com I located a new one in my configuration from a junk yard, bought it, and installed it. Misfire is completely gone but I was given 2 new codes, and the only one that affected driveability was p0720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction. The truck will not shift correctly or smoothly.
I got the VIN on the junkyard truck and the VIN on my truck and compared them (donor:1 FTE X14 N 1 TKAx and mine:2 FTE F14 N 5 TCAx) and felt like this should have been the correct pairing. My understanding is that my truck does not have an OSS and so I am curious as to if I got the wrong ECM or if I got a bad one given it was a JY pull. My calibration is 6-54J-R11, and I have no numbers or markings of significance from the previous ECM(misfire) that did not have the 720 code. I feel so close to getting it set, can you shed some light on this for me?

Steve83

The VIN is not useful unless you have access to an accurate database of vehicle build information. Not even Ford maintains that database.

If your truck has an E4OD (4R100), then it doesn't have an OSS; that sensor was only used on the 4R70W. If the PCM is throwing that code, then it's built for a 4R70W - not for an E4OD.


(phone app link)

SavaG35

Yeah I would say I have gotten the wrong one then. So my next problem is when looking through the EEC program codes on http://web.archive.org/web/20110414065146/http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=1 (had to access as archive as the actual site is gone apparently.) I see "5.0 Bronco, F-x50 E-x50MAF / E4OD" but not one that has OBD-II listed for my engine size. On further googling I found another thread you replied to and it looks like ADA3 will be what I need. Is there any other codes or places to find codes for potential matches or is that my only option aside from reman? Also if you happen to have another one of those I would be interested.

Steve83

Browse your local junkyards - I plan to hit mine again soon. Any '96 1/2-ton Ford truck with your engine & trans should have a compatible EEC.

SavaG35

Just giving an official ending to this thread incase anyone googles something like it down the road, the problem was mostly from the PCM, I replaced it with a junkyard pull with the code ADA3 and now my only codes are for the lack of O2 sensors. That shop helped to dial everything in for me like timing but the no start and misfire are gone with new PCM. Thanks everyone for the knowledge! I bought to learn not to save money so I would say goal accomplished!