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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 02:10 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Just call me Sean
I still don't see any EGR solenoid checks in that list...
Follow the Vac hose connected to the EGR valve. You will find the EGR regulator (solenoid).You should have no Vac going to the EGR valve at idle.http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=43

Last edited by ymeski56; Jul 21, 2010 at 02:13 AM.
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Old Jul 21, 2010 | 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ymeski56
Follow the Vac hose connected to the EGR valve. You will find the EGR regulator (solenoid).You should have no Vac going to the EGR valve at idle.http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=43
Already checked the EGR Solenoid no vaccum at idle going to the EGR but do get fluctuating vaccum starting at 2000 rpm just like the Haynes manual says it should. Voltage to it is good, vaccum lines to and from don't have any leaks, and the little filter on it is clean. Truck doesn't run any better whether the EGR regulator or EVP is unplugged. The only thing I can find that isn't right on the EGR system is the EVP is reading about 4000 ohms when the manual says it should be 5000, but I went to a local junkyard and tested about 10 EVP's and they all read about 3400 to 4000 ohms.

The thing that baffles me is that the problem will come up at any time like when the engine's cold in the morning or it could happen after it's been running for an hour. It'll happen in gear and also in park or neutral.

Last edited by Amadeus; Jul 21, 2010 at 07:20 AM. Reason: Forgot information
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 09:20 AM
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Well tried looking at it again last night, checked the coffee can for leaks. All checked out good. So now I'm to a point I don't know what to check anymore, cause everything says it should be running fine. Which it does, but when this issue comes up it's a pain in my butt.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 10:25 AM
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How about the fuel pressure regulator?? check that.. Also while its idleing wiggle harnesses and see if you can duplictae the problems.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 12:13 PM
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Error code scans & remove the ICM (TFI) take it in and have checked.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ma94xlt
How about the fuel pressure regulator?? check that.. Also while its idleing wiggle harnesses and see if you can duplictae the problems.
I've wiggled the harness, with no change. The dealership checked fuel pressure and it came out good, and I've also pulled off the vaccum line to see if the diagphram was bad but it checked out good. I might tap the FPR like I've read online to see if it changes the idle.

Where is the ICM? Is it the thing under the coil? I've ran codes and all I'll get is code 34 EVP/EGR too high.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Amadeus
I've wiggled the harness, with no change. The dealership checked fuel pressure and it came out good, and I've also pulled off the vaccum line to see if the diagphram was bad but it checked out good. I might tap the FPR like I've read online to see if it changes the idle.

Where is the ICM? Is it the thing under the coil? I've ran codes and all I'll get is code 34 EVP/EGR too high.
For your yr., the ICM (TFI) is probably mounted on the driver side fender well.
#34 implies a bad EVP sensor.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ymeski56
For your yr., the ICM (TFI) is probably mounted on the driver side fender well.
#34 implies a bad EVP sensor.

I have checked the EVP sensor and it reads good minus the fact the manual says it should be at 5000 ohms and it's at 3900-4000 ohms. Is this correct? Cause I checked 10 of them in a junkyard and they all read 3400-4000 ohms.

Thanks for the help I'll look for the ICM when I get home this evening.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 07:02 PM
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34 means the EGR isn't closing completely, or the EVP is bad. You need to figure out why the EGR isn't closing.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Just call me Sean
34 means the EGR isn't closing completely, or the EVP is bad. You need to figure out why the EGR isn't closing.
I know the EGR is closing all the way. The reason why the code is thrown was that the EVP was only showing a maximum of 4000 ohms, even when taken off the truck, when the manual states it should be 5000 ohms. So I went to the junkyard last weekend and tested around 10 EVP's and they all read between 3400 and 4000, so I was beginning to think that maybe that's what it's supposed to be because other people had asked questions about the difference in ohms. So just to be sure went to Orielly's and tested a new one and it read 5000 ohms. Let's see if this will solve the problem.

Otherwise I'm out of ideas cause everything else I've looked at so far says the truck is ok.
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