bikeymikey

my broken stud didn't come out with the easy out. i think i came pretty close to breaking the easy out. so i stopped doing that and tried to drill the stud out. i did, but messed up the threads. helicoil time. installed helicoil, but ever so slightly off center that water pump doesn't line up.
my remaining options are:
-welding the hole shut and tapping a new hole,
-filling the hole with jb weld (good till 500dF) and tapping a new one
-using permatex stripped thread repair kit (300dF) (#81668)

the cost of getting a welder to come over and do it is a little prohibitive, so i have the other two to choose from.
i like the permatex option because i feel i have a better chance of getting the threads the same axis as the water pump and timing cover holes if i'm just threading a bolt than if i'm wielding a drill.
my question to you all is: "does the engine block (of an engine in good running condition) ever comes close to 300degrees?". i seem to remember reading here that the operating temp is 215d. does that mean that the engine block never gets above that temp? would installing a 180 deg t'stat make a difference? or should i just use jb weld and just make sure that hole i drill is perfect?

techrep

iTrader: (1)

Drill it out a little bit bigger and re-tap it centered.

ymeski56

x2.

Forget JB weld/ wishful thinking on your part. Not a realistic application for the product. Don't get me wrong, i use the stuff...but I wouldn't use it for that. If you do, you'll be cussing, throwing tool's & kicking stuff, sooner than later!

bikeymikey

is this because jb weld is too hard to drill and tap? i'm already cussing, throwing and kicking stuff.
maybe i'm being a little unimaginative, but i don't see how drilling the hole a bit bigger will work. the helicoil is designed to work in a 21/64ths hole. if i drill it bigger, won't there be too little material for the tap to make good enough threads to hold the helicoil, probably resulting them stripping? or am i imagining things?

fordtrucknut

ymeski56

The JB will eventually break away. Good stuff, but not that good. I've attempted many repair's w/ it on boiler work as a "Hail Mary". It would buy me a little time, but sometimes that's all I needed to keep the boiler on line till it could be fixed correctly w/o disrupting plant operations.

Originally Posted by tech rep:
"Drill it out a little bit bigger and re-tap it centered."

No mention of helical. Tap to next size bolt.

Unfortunately, it's ultimately "your call", as we can't actually see it from were we're sitting. But after a helical failed attempt, tapping to the next bolt size, eliminating the need for the heli coil is (usually) the next logical step.

In your case drilling w/ attitude & purpose, so as to recenter as much as possible, at the same time to make up for your last failed attempt to drill top dead center.

Make sense?

bikeymikey

or are you suggesting i tap it for a bigger helicoil and install a bigger bolt? hm. that's and interesting possibility. i would be limited by the ID of the holes on the timing cover and waterpump, but i suppose i could drill those out too... uughh.

ymeski56

No, I'm saying tap to the next bolt size & use the corresponding bolt.

An exception is when taping does not provide an adequate quality treading for a bolt. In which case, "Heli coils" are a method of compression resistance in lue of poor tread constitution.

bikeymikey

gotcha. the saga continues.

bubbabud

Have you considderd ovaling the holes in the pump and cover to line up with your slightly off center hellicoil install..bubbabud