Grizzly28

Picked up 1988 F150 for $500 for my business, gonna be doing a little work to it. Any suggestions? I'm putting a 6" heavy duty Suspension in it. It's standard and I stalled it today lol picking it up 3/4 of the way home SMH on an Intersection. Haven't drov e standard since I started learning how to drive. Haha. But it's running a little rough, put new gas in, it seems when I step on the peddle it tends to get boggy? It's been pretty much sitting since 2013 and only ran a couple times just to move it. Oh ok, also quick update I hit the gas and it wants to die but than gets fuel and revs????

David Young

I would start out with a complete tune up. If you plan on putting on larger tire, check to see what rear end gear ratio you have. They're is a code on the door sticker and a code decipher (if spelled right) on this Forum . I found out I have a 3.08 ratio and will cost too much money the change my gears on my 4X4. So I use the factory size tires .

Grizzly28

Figured out the shuddering, lack of power, bad fuel pump. I knew I had to replace the Fromt tank, but did not know pump was bad.

fltdriver

Order a fuse assortment box, like 100 fuses split between dif amps, and replace every fuse in the truck. For $12 you eliminate future headaches.

Lazarus-F150

X2 on the tune up. Make sure to stick with Motorcraft copper plugs. I've seen a bunch of posts about how these trucks tend not to like the newer materials as much. I would also check for vacuum leaks (or just replace all of the vacuum lines - costs ~$30 and an hour or two of time). You can also run a couple of tanks worth of Seafoam treatment to help clean up the fuel system a bit.

I would also get a code scanner (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and good multimeter to check for any codes and diagnose problems. I just did this recently and found that I had four bad sensors (without the check engine light coming on). Replaced the sensors and the truck runs WAY better. There's a good site on how to test/troubleshoot some of the sensors that tend to go bad the most often (there are three pages of tests: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...-of-articles-1).

Also, if/when you replace any sensors always buy Motorcraft replacements. There's something about other aftermarket sensors that the computer doesn't like. They're a little more expensive, but it's worth saving the headaches of having problematic sensors.

Grizzly28

Fltdriver: Fuse box really? I'll check them out amazon have it?
Lazarus: are the Autolite Copper plugs the same as Motorcraft? They don't look to old, surprisingly fairly new. Yeah I seen a few vac lines that are pretty old and cracked. Also just ran sea foam through tank, and Air intake ( Which was a pain by the way), did you just replace O2 Sensors? I don't have any lights on...
I'll tell ya tho, as soon as I diagnosed the Fuel tank, and filled the brand new rear one, it ran so much better, it was so bad it was causing me to stall out, I couldn't get outta first. Not I think I'm still having an air gas defecency somehow, when I hit the gas just starting it's a little rough but once its gets warmed up it runs fine.

raski

I have owned my 87 (4.9 w/ 4spd stick)) for twenty years and my father bought it new prior to that. We never had a fuse blow and fuses do not "wear" out. If they blow, something caused it. Don't waste your money. The Autolite plugs will be fine and that's what I use. My suggestions, change your gas filter (its very easy), look very closely at the vacuum lines, make sure wires, cap and rotor are in good shape too. The hard plastic vacuum lines tend to disintegrate and can easily be replaced with rubber line if needed. I wouldn't worry about the O2 sensor. Its data is not used for the first 3-5 minutes of cold engine operation. So unless your engine goes downhill when warm, the sensor is doing its job. Fuel injectors tend to get dirty at this age and will cause a lean miss at times. You can verify by yanking and plugging the EGR vacuum line and see if the drivability improves as the EGR further leans out the mixture. A professional cleaning is much better than adding a pint of cleaner to a partial tank of gas. If the body is good, you can expect a lot more miles of driving. The 4.9 is a rugged beast.

Lazarus-F150

I will second that fuses don't wear out, but would definitely check to make sure that all of the fuses match the recommended ratings (my truck's PO apparently just put whatever amperage fuses in that he felt like on any given day...). I would also recommend scanning for codes even without the CEL being on. Even if you don't find any bad sensors now, it is only a matter of time before you will need to diagnose something. These old trucks are great, but they get moody occasionally...

For the vacuum lines, you will have performance/MPG issues with any sort of vacuum leak. I just replaced my vacuum lines with silicone lines from www.siliconeintakes.com. It was cheap and took less than two hours. There are a number of threads on how to do it. In short, you will need ~20' of 4mm ID and ~10' of 6mm ID and a pack of vacuum connectors (https://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-4738...cuum+connector). I also used 3/8" and 1/2" wire loom to cover the lines for added heat/rubbing resistance. Also, check your vacuum canister(s) for leaks. You'll have one on the passenger side wheel well and if you have cruise control then there will be another below the coolant expansion tank. If you need a replacement they are Ford part #D5TZ-9E453-A (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

Grizzly28

Thank you guys I really appreciate it I am going to look into all of this.. another question but what would you guys recommend for an exhaust for the 300?

fltdriver

I don't replace them because they wear out, replace them because over time moisture causes oxidization on blades which inhibits electrical current. It's much easier to replace them than to clean each blade.

Edit.
Yes amazon has them, or ebay, checked mine and it was 120ct for $12.