Low power after start up
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Low power after start up
Ive got a 96 F150 Eddie Bauer, 302, 5 speed, 4wd, std cab. It has a K&N intake, Edelbock Performer RPM intake manifold, AFR 185 heads, Comp Cams camshaft (sorry I don't know the specs off the top of my head, but it's supposed to make power from 1500 to 6000) Comp roller rockers, Summit headers and 3" catback exhaust.
Stock gearing, stock tire size, open differentials (for now)
My problem is that often times when I am backing out of a parking spot when i'm in the middle of the turn the power will simply disappear and the truck will struggle to keep running. Even if i press the accelerator pedal.
Either i can press and release the accelerator pedal and eventually the engine will wake up or I can let the wheels straighten out (to take the strain off the power steering pump)and the rpms will eventually come back.
It really is a crap shoot whether or not the engine will die. If i press the clutch the engine will cough and stumble.
I've adjusted the timing, last time I checked the fuel pressure i believe it was around 30-35. Or maybe 50. Sorry, I can't remember right now.
Also, when I shift the rpms sometimes will increase to about 12-1500 rpm. If im coming to a stop with the clutch pedal depressed the rpms stay up until about 3 mph. Then they come back down to idle. What's going on?
Im not sure if it's fuel related, ignition or what. I replaced the fuel regulator not too long ago.
The truck has not been dyno tuned but that seems like a good idea.
Help!
Stock gearing, stock tire size, open differentials (for now)
My problem is that often times when I am backing out of a parking spot when i'm in the middle of the turn the power will simply disappear and the truck will struggle to keep running. Even if i press the accelerator pedal.
Either i can press and release the accelerator pedal and eventually the engine will wake up or I can let the wheels straighten out (to take the strain off the power steering pump)and the rpms will eventually come back.
It really is a crap shoot whether or not the engine will die. If i press the clutch the engine will cough and stumble.
I've adjusted the timing, last time I checked the fuel pressure i believe it was around 30-35. Or maybe 50. Sorry, I can't remember right now.
Also, when I shift the rpms sometimes will increase to about 12-1500 rpm. If im coming to a stop with the clutch pedal depressed the rpms stay up until about 3 mph. Then they come back down to idle. What's going on?
Im not sure if it's fuel related, ignition or what. I replaced the fuel regulator not too long ago.
The truck has not been dyno tuned but that seems like a good idea.
Help!
#2
Senior Member
Gather new information and update your post. Can't go by what fuel pressure was the last time long ago. Should be 30-45 psi now and what about any codes???
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ill track down the cam card. It does have a code as of yesterday. Previous to that it was cel free for years but it acted the same. I'll see what the code is and let you guys know.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ok, I have a picture of the cam card. The 2 other ones are the codes. Obviously I cleared those before my emissions test. Which I'm currently doing.
the truck has always had the flat spot off idle. I was hoping the cam and heads would help make it go away, and it runs like a raped ape higher in the rpms but down low, not so much.
the truck has always had the flat spot off idle. I was hoping the cam and heads would help make it go away, and it runs like a raped ape higher in the rpms but down low, not so much.
#6
Sounds like a low RPM / idle issue. Maybe your idle air controller valve has an obstruction? When is the last time it was cleaned?
OBS Ford IAC
OBS Ford IAC
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#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
i unplugged the idle air control valve and the truck died right away. It didn't struggle, or shudder, just turned off.
I did replace that valve about a year or so ago. I only drive the truck about 5000 miles per year, don't know if that would make the valve wear out sooner or have any affect at all.
The truck does hold vacuum, all fluids are fresh, recent oil change, tire pressure is good... parked in the shade...
I did replace that valve about a year or so ago. I only drive the truck about 5000 miles per year, don't know if that would make the valve wear out sooner or have any affect at all.
The truck does hold vacuum, all fluids are fresh, recent oil change, tire pressure is good... parked in the shade...
#9
Martin
You did your research with that cam as it should do decent driving on the street. From the codes you pulled and problem you describe I'd bet there is a small vacuum leak. That cam would magnify drivability problems caused by the smallest leak, possibly a crack in a end connector or a crack in the line that feeds those parts coming from the vacuum reservoir. Or the vacuum reservoir itself. The sensors on the EGR and secondary air just verify they move as expected when vacuum is applied.
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ok, I'll retest for vacuum myself. Last time it was done by a shop and with time i am trusting that shop less and less.
only problem is I only have a vacuum pump for bleeding brakes. Oh well, at least my forearms will get in shape!
As far as doing that, how much vacuum should the truck hold and for how long? Can I tap into any vacuum line to test or should I use a specific one?
And yes, the truck is a pleasure to drive with no drop in gas mileage and there has been a significant increase in power between the cam and heads.
only problem is I only have a vacuum pump for bleeding brakes. Oh well, at least my forearms will get in shape!
As far as doing that, how much vacuum should the truck hold and for how long? Can I tap into any vacuum line to test or should I use a specific one?
And yes, the truck is a pleasure to drive with no drop in gas mileage and there has been a significant increase in power between the cam and heads.