I think that's what I'm gonna try doing next. At this point part of me wants to pull the dash... The issue I have is that I don't have a parking spot and I live in a neighborhood with street sweeping once a week. So I will have to start the project literally right after I move the car and try to bang it all out in a week. Part of me was thinking to remove the dash and just seam seal the **** out of every joint and put the dash back in and pray.

Perhaps the hose method is smarter.

I removed the hood cowl and scraped out all of the old seam inside there and replaced it with fresh new. I replaced the EEC gasket which for the life of me, I think is where the leak is coming in. I can't tell if it's coming in where the gasket meets the truck or where the gasket meets the EEC. Part of me wants to seam seal that too, though, I'm worried that if I do that, I'm creating more work for myself down the road in case the EEC ever needs to be changed...





I'm also considering setting up my iPhone inside before the next rainy day and setting it on record to see if I can capture where it's coming in visually. The problem is, it's such a slow leak that it's hardly visible.

Just a couple of thoughts
Occasionally large puddles inside truck are due to the door drains being clogged and the water in the door getting high enough that it spills onto the floor pan. Make sure your door drains are open and not clogged with leaves.
Welding - Some high school offer night courses and if nothing else would put you in contact with persons who may point you to a welding skilled in this type of repair.
BTW I used to live in Michigan and visited U-Pull yards all over the Detroit Metro, 99% rust buckets. 2017, I moved to coastal Mississippi and U-Pull yards here are 99% rust free, I thought I had gone to heaven, bolts actually turned.

​​​​​​Yea, at someone's suggestion I checked the doors. Not that. And I replaced the seam above the doors as well. I definitely and reneging on the issue that I ran into yesterday. Which I thought it was coming in through the seam sealer by the pedal.

I poured a water bottle in the far corner. Near the e brake and it definitely ran the entire length of the firewall before pooling up and running down. So it's definitely come from back there. The question is... How high up. I have pulled a dash before. Aka, my old 2002 mustang. So I'm no stranger to it. I've also checked several walk throughs and quite frankly it doesn't look terrible.

Again because my truck needs to be moved once a week. I'm going to pull everything that I need to (glove box, radio, etc) to the point where I can just move it from point A to point be. Probably pull most of the dashboard bolts and screws as well. And then blitz through pulling it the night before the next time it rains. The big road block is the steering column. Which looks to be one bolt on the steering chuck (name?) and 4 to the dash. Wondering if I can just yank it out after doing those 5.

Anyway. I did a tach swap today so that was fun.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...15d04045ef.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...1520e74137.jpg

Don't worry, I swapped the odometer/speedometer. Also using polishing wheel on the plastic bezel to clean off some of the scratches. Overall happy with it.

Hey guys, have a quick question. Im going to replace my TPS on my truck. Have a 142 code. Is there harm in putting on a brand new IAC while I have it open? I haven't thrown any codes related to it, but figured if I'm pulling the throttle body off to change the TPS that maybe I should just change the IAC while I'm in there. Could this introduce more problems putting in a brand new part?

Unless you're replacing it with OEM, leave it. Clean it if you like but the China stuff doesn't last.

I did both the IAC and TPS at the same time on my I6. Sometimes the IAC is just gummed up and you can clean it, but mine was shot. I understand the not wanting to replace OEM with Chinesium ****, but if you've got a truck with 300k miles on it you're kind of stuck. Then again, if it doesn't need to be replaced I would leave it be until it does. Both modules can be swapped out in ten minutes.

So big problem guys. I pulled the dash. Apparently the rust inside the cowl was a worse than I had anticipated. Below are some pics from behind the dash. What creative ideas do you think I can use outside of welding to stop this considering the fact that this is wear is MEANT to flush off the windshield/good.

I'm going to try and absolutely COVER this top and bottom with an inch of seam sealer, but wanted to know if you guys think of anything else.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...9fea13e058.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...55ea0526a7.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...f4e9f9e152.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...37e319084d.jpg

Thanks for this advice. I was thinking of picking up this?

It says it's Motorcraft Brand. Do you think it's a knock off?

Amazon is the last place I'd trust to sell me authentic anything. Batteries are especially bad. If I'm ordering parts online it's from Rock Auto. They're at least one company that operates their own warehouses. Amazon is a collection of thousands of sellers and they can't police the inventory.

I've done this job twice. Once my 96 and 94. Removed as much rust flaky rust as possible, POR15 it, let it dry and seam sealer the holes. Let that dry and bedliner coating on top of that.

It will outlast the truck if done right.

Also pull the crowl, and do it there as well. It's going to suck but I willing to bet you will have chunks of seem sealer that is cracked and broken up with rust under it.