I went up there and held the butterfly to the stop screw and it didnt chnage anything with the idle, I was also taping the ends of some hoses that could be having a possible vacuum leak and found out I accidentally left my obd1 reader on and usually I cant do an engine on test but apparently it did it while I forgot it was on and gave me codes 40 and 30 but I cant find much about them online and they arent even in the manual. I also found out that the air box that holds the air filter before the intake hoses is cracked and slightly loose, that is whats making that weird sound but I dont think it could cause the whole engine to do that.

 

Suggest the code reader didn't catch things correctly - don't recall any codes with a '0'. My reader was old enough such that one had to count the blinky light sequence interrupted by the pauses in-between, which may be part of the reason for no zeroes.

I'm still hung up for whatever reason on the butterfly actuation - consider pulling the intake hoses off and have a look that both butterfly plates move exactly in line with the external throttle tab. Again, perhaps not the bigger problem, but what you've shared just doesn't seem right with the throttle tab not resting on the stop.

Perhaps inspect the vacuum line from the manifold port to the MAP sensor, also curious why the sensor was changed, as it's not really noted as a problematic part. If the old one is still available, perhaps temporarily hook it back up to see whether anything changes.

Would be a pain in the keister, but interesting to watch the fuel pressure trend between the time of start and when it dies, towards crossing a fuel supply issue off the list of possibilities.

 

Yea that's what I was thinking, but on the key on engine off test it says there is no problem but im taking that with a grain of salt because I tested it again with the o2 sensor unplugged and it said the same thing :/

I actually did that and watched the plates and to me it seems fine but im not an expert at all so I will go up there and get some more videos of it, the main thing I want to do right now is just get it to idle at least so I can run an engine on test with the obd1.

I checked that vacuum line and its fine, I replaced it because when I first started working on the truck it said online that could be the problem and I unplugged it and started it and it made no difference so I got a new one but it still made no difference.

I don't have a fuel pressure guage but I could hold a screwdriver in the hole on the fuel rail and gas will shoot out of it.

Recently I have been very suspicious of the fuel injectors being clogged or bad, my dad is asking a friend that's a mechanic at his work if he could take a look at it because I cant test pressure to be sure, but I did wiggle some of the fuel injectors and they just freely spin, that cant be good can it?

 

Finally the problem was solved! I had a mechanic look at it that knows these types of trucks and he found the catalytic converter was clogged up causing all of this, I suspected it a long time ago but unplugged the o2 sensor hole and it ran the same so not sure how that didnt help but atleast its fixed now, the mechanic is putting some new gaskets on that were leaking slightly and im gonna be picking it up soon, thanks for everyone's help and wish me luck on learning to drive a manual :]

 

Keep in mind, a clogged converter is a symptom of a poorly performing engine. It is something that should never occur with a good running engine.Most likely a rich running or misfiring engine. There's a good chance over time, the new converter will be damaged unless the original problem is resolved.

 

thanks for letting me know, I will ask the guy we have working on it about this and now that you mention it it did have a misfire atleast what I believe to be one since I have never heard a car with one really but I just thought the clogged converter was causing it but ill probably get it serviced again at an actual business just to make sure everything is running correctly.