HELP! Fuel Pump Problem?
#11
broke white boy
yeah where the pump pushes onto the tubes of the hanger, but it sounds like you know what your doing, so I'd bet on a bad out of the box pump.
which doesn't surprise me any, I just went through 5 alternators and 2 parts stores on a car I was working on before I got one that worked.
which doesn't surprise me any, I just went through 5 alternators and 2 parts stores on a car I was working on before I got one that worked.
#12
As much as I agree with you (and hope that I would be able to put something so simple back together properly) its going to be a b**ch to drop the tank again...... I was holding out hope that it could be something else......
Thanks for you insight!
Thanks for you insight!
#14
Senior Member
You might consider raising the bed of your truck instead of lowering the tank. I lowered the tank on mine and about 50% of the way through the job I changed directions and just unbolted the truck bed-to-frame bolts and raised it with a floor jack. I bought a 4"x4"x8' piece of wood for around $6 (six bucks). I cut a piece around 20 inches and used it in a vertical position on my floor jack to raise up the bed. You'll need a 4x4 piece of wood to put between the bed and the frame once you raise it but it is a HECK OF A LOT EASIER to raise the bed than to drop that frickin tank! Cut some 4x4 pieces around 8 inches long and lay then on their long side between to frame and the bed. Make sure you have some smaller wooden shims and some 2x4 or 1x4 wood to shim it a little higher if you need more room. I raised mine around 6 to 8 inches and it was plenty enough room to pull out the fuel pump assembly. Just be careful if it is windy out on the day you do it, as that bed will be swaying a little. Be careful. However, it is a much easier and quicker job.
Last edited by nightowlll; 11-11-2013 at 08:00 AM.
#15
Senior Member
Another thing you can do when you get that fuel pump assembly to where you can reach it good is to get a multimeter and check your voltage at the pump. You should be getting 12 volts (or close to it) with the key on.
#16
Thanks for the suggestions. Do you really think that I could have killed the pump by dry testing it with just power on where it runs for about one second and turns off?
Thanks
Thanks
#17
#18
Senior Member
One second shouldn't have hurt it but yes it is very possible if it was much longer than that.
Most pumps I've seen come with a warning about running them dry for 30 seconds or longer and will void the warranty if this is done and the pump filter is not replaced when pump is installed. And like was said it may be that you have got a bad pump.
I saw where you replaced all the pump parts did you do this part by part or with a complete pump assembly?
Usually if they are pumping air they get louder when they come on, unless the pump is pumping the fuel back into the tank.
Most pumps I've seen come with a warning about running them dry for 30 seconds or longer and will void the warranty if this is done and the pump filter is not replaced when pump is installed. And like was said it may be that you have got a bad pump.
I saw where you replaced all the pump parts did you do this part by part or with a complete pump assembly?
Usually if they are pumping air they get louder when they come on, unless the pump is pumping the fuel back into the tank.
#20
So, I figured it out without having to raise the bed! Apparently the wiring diagram that came with the new fuel pump hanger (with "updated" electrical connector) had the pump wires reversed (thanks to Nitehawkjr for the note about pumping the fuel back into the tank, which got me thinking about this)...... after reversing the wires it fired right up. For anyone reading this, if you install a Spectra fuel hanger assembly and have the same problem, just reverse the pump wires. I will be writing up the tank/pump/sender/hanger assembly on a separate thread. Once I get that done, then I will post a link here for anyone that is interested.
Thanks everyone!
Thanks everyone!