GT40P heads
#11
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
You've got an HO roller cam. SD, MAF doesn't matter - just the computer management system.
That cam is ground for a balance of low end torque while still maintaining some horsepower at higher revs. It won't rev up as fast as a Mustang cam, but a M cam can't produce the low end torque required to pull a 2 ton truck away from a stopsign without bogging down.
I would imagine those heads would work just fine no matter which cam you threw at them.
The SD management system has a problem computing on a lumpy cam because the vacuum drops.
The heads are just hunks of iron with holes in them; some of them have bigger holes than others
I think the issues will come in as to which rockers and pushrods to use; I would think - just a guess - that you would most likely want to use your current lifters and pushrods as they match the cam lift (the max height on the cam lobe).
Whether to keep the rockers and springs that came on the heads is a research project; maybe use your old rockers..or maybe they're the same, I wouldn't think the springs are going to be an issue. Stronger springs snap the valve closed faster..that doesn't really come into play big time until you get into the higher revs though.
That's mostly all I know about that.
That cam is ground for a balance of low end torque while still maintaining some horsepower at higher revs. It won't rev up as fast as a Mustang cam, but a M cam can't produce the low end torque required to pull a 2 ton truck away from a stopsign without bogging down.
I would imagine those heads would work just fine no matter which cam you threw at them.
The SD management system has a problem computing on a lumpy cam because the vacuum drops.
The heads are just hunks of iron with holes in them; some of them have bigger holes than others
I think the issues will come in as to which rockers and pushrods to use; I would think - just a guess - that you would most likely want to use your current lifters and pushrods as they match the cam lift (the max height on the cam lobe).
Whether to keep the rockers and springs that came on the heads is a research project; maybe use your old rockers..or maybe they're the same, I wouldn't think the springs are going to be an issue. Stronger springs snap the valve closed faster..that doesn't really come into play big time until you get into the higher revs though.
That's mostly all I know about that.
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BLDTruth (04-23-2017)
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Alright. As always thanks for your time Chris.
Now that I don't HAVE to replace the cam, it makes things a lot easier. I'm starting to think the best I can do for my money would be to do a complete rebuild on the heads and perhaps a port job on the lower intake to match the heads. The rest of the money will go to the exhaust which will be expensive enough as it is.
To be continued...
Now that I don't HAVE to replace the cam, it makes things a lot easier. I'm starting to think the best I can do for my money would be to do a complete rebuild on the heads and perhaps a port job on the lower intake to match the heads. The rest of the money will go to the exhaust which will be expensive enough as it is.
To be continued...
#13
Senior Member
I'm way late seeing this thread, but you don't have to change the camshaft on your truck. Chris_1 pretty much covered it. Your factory camshaft isn't half bad seeing that you have a 94, so I think you'll be happy with your results.
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BLDTruth (04-23-2017)
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
What would be your assessmemt as far as my ability to just bolt these heads up and go - do I need to change anything out? In your 5.0 thread you suggested the gt40p springs are no good, and I have read that elsewhere as well.
#15
Senior Member
If you plan on upgrading your camshaft in the future, you'll need to upgrade your springs.
You can do the upgrade now or later. It just depends on what you want to do.
As it stands, you can bolt these heads on as is and be perfectly ok and upgrade the springs later on when you upgrade the camshaft.
Hopefully this helps.
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BLDTruth (04-24-2017)
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Helps a ton. Thank you guys.
I guess at this point I have a lot of options and its just a matter of how fast I wanna spend.
I guess at this point I have a lot of options and its just a matter of how fast I wanna spend.
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well I have a feeler out on a late 80's small block ZF5 for $250. Supposed to pick it up tomorrow. He's selling it as a core, so it might be blown up. But hopefully I have found my tranny for the engine mods to come.
Now its time to figure out cross-member, driveshaft lengths, etc.
And I guess I'm gonna have to find a 351w and build it.
It's a good thing I am single.
Now its time to figure out cross-member, driveshaft lengths, etc.
And I guess I'm gonna have to find a 351w and build it.
It's a good thing I am single.
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Alright things are moving pretty quickly. Picking up tranny today.
I also have found a running 351 out of a 93 F250 with 136K miles for $350 OBO. If I can get it for $250 I'd say I have my engine/tranny combo ready for rebuild. Anything special about the F250 351's I need to worry about?
I also have found a running 351 out of a 93 F250 with 136K miles for $350 OBO. If I can get it for $250 I'd say I have my engine/tranny combo ready for rebuild. Anything special about the F250 351's I need to worry about?
#19
So you gonna have pictures and videos of all this right?
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Pictures for sure
Trying to find a good ZF5 teardown video on youtube and not having much luck. There are about 800 302/351 teardown vids.
Trying to find a good ZF5 teardown video on youtube and not having much luck. There are about 800 302/351 teardown vids.