aliens8mycow

Geez! You don't fool around! This is a fine example of 'take charge mechanics'!

So let me get this straight - your lugnuts will come loose, but the wheel itself is rusted to the brake drum? I'd have to agree that soaking the area between the drum and back of the wheel with PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil might help. A big hammer is always good too...

Fast Hampster

I think it's rusted to the half axle, not the drum.. Or may be both of them I've started with WD40 yesterday, but it didn't help. A hammer didn't help also. Not sure what PB Blaster is. I'll try to use a highjack and two metal bars combination on Sunday.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

PB Blaster is just another brand name of penetrating oil. We call it peanut butter blaster.

Usually the rim is seized on the center hub. If a BFH (big f*****g hammer) didn't work I don't have any other suggestions for you at the moment. It's a good thing you didn't get a flat before this.

thejon2524

P.b Blaster is the best ehit every made, put rags on your rim and use a wrecking bar as leverage and jump on it, or the good old fire wrench heat that **** up and then bang on.

Fast Hampster

Thank you all for advices about wheel removing I'll go to the garade only on Monday, because i have some other stuff to do Anyway today i got some more parts - steering box seals kit, rear brakes repair kit (some crazy set of small springs), rear half-axles seals, a thermostate and something else i can't remember now.

And i took my EEC to the "EEC repairing guy" for mantainance. He was inspecting it for about 15 minutes and said that nothing needs to be done with it He said that it's still in perfect condition, and he can't see any reason for replacing capacitors in it. He said that i only need to watch voltage and engine and body grounding very carefully and my EEC will work for a long time, and he also offered me a free inspection once a year. He said that it was a Mitsubishi EEC, it most probably would be dead by now.

Now i have almost everything i need to repair all of my truck, i only wait for gearbox seals, clutch and water pumt to be delivered. Can't wait to put it to the test drive, but a lot of work has to be done before

admiller316

I work part time at a tire shop right now while I'm in school and we use a big dead-blow hammer to get the rusted-on wheels off. Soak it down real good with some penetrating oil and then crawl underneath the truck and hit the wheels from the back side. Keep rotating the wheels every couple hits and don't be afraid to hit the wheel itself and not the tire. True this may bend the wheel but on my truck with bent rear wheels, I haven't had any vibration issues. If you have a torch too, it will help. Remember to wire brush it down and throw a bunch of anti-seize on it before you bolt the wheel back on. Good luck!

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

Any updates? How is work progressing?

Fast Hampster

No progress so far - i've been busy with other things lately, and i've still got a cold. I also need a new heater because it's finally getting cold in here - it was 15F yesterday. I hope to get to the garage today, and i'll take a picture of my heater made in USSR

Franchi

/\/\

Uh oh. This should be interesting. :-)

Good old Bill

Hey buddy, nice pics and problems. Your useage of the 1/2 inch drive tools is bringing back memories. Guess I got on the easy approach years back with the impact tools. Today, ask someone to use a hand tool instead of pneumatic, its a violation of a union contract. Your difficulty with the wheels is not funny but better you than me. All else fails, put that truck on the street, jack up one wheel at a time and pop it with a chain and another vehicle. Use common sense and all will be good. Repeat with other three. Am in agreement with Sogwapp55, just can't wait to see the USSR heater. Good luck with the rebuild.