Finally got it running, now need help fine tuning.
09-21-2012, 11:14 PM
#1
Finally got it running, now need help fine tuning.
Hey all.
I have a 95 F150 Centurion. 5.0, 4X4, auto, extended cab, 208K miles.
I bought it knowing it was going to need lots of work. First thing I did was pull the engine and install a refreshed 5.0 from a 95 Mustang. I have also replaced all 4 shocks, front drivers side shock tower, many small things on the donor engine, and have done a TON of cleaning to the whole truck.
Ok so now it runs but I have a few issues I need to address before I can get it inspected.
1. It has NO power or pick-up at all. I think my 4 cyl Saturn can go faster. The donor engine ran excellent and only had 80K on it. I think either the timing is off or I missed a vacuum line somewere. It's like I step on the gas but have to FLOOR it to get any response out of it. I do have a check engine light... which I will pull the codes from first chance I get. I've already read the How-To on here so that's a plus.
2. The temp gauge does not work. The sensor is definitely there and plugged in but maybe it went bad? The engine doesn't appear to be overheating so that's good. Any suggestions? EDIT: Apparently there are two temp sensors. One for the gauge and one for the computer (for an L6). Is it the same for a V8?
3. I have power windows/locks. Passenger side works fine, drivers side does nothing. Is there 1 fuse for each option but common to both sides or is that just a GM thing? Sorry but I don't have an owners manual so it's easier to ask here.
4. The fuel gauge reads 1/2 at a stop sign, goes to just below 3/4 when I accelerate, then drops to 1/4 as I come to a stop. WTF?? This is on the front gas tank. Haven't checked the rear.
5. Lastly, there is A LOT of play in the steering wheel. So much to the extent that the whole truck sways left and right by just driving down the road. Not a whole lot but it's noticeable and makes it very hard to steer. The steering wheel is cocked 45* to the right to make the truck go straight. Maybe new tie rod ends and an alignment? The front tires are ok but man the rears are dry rotted from it sitting in a field for so long.
Alright well that's everything that I can see. Probably all just stupid small fixes, however, I'm normally a GM guy so Fords are a whole new ball game.
Thanks in advance for any and all replies.
I have a 95 F150 Centurion. 5.0, 4X4, auto, extended cab, 208K miles.
I bought it knowing it was going to need lots of work. First thing I did was pull the engine and install a refreshed 5.0 from a 95 Mustang. I have also replaced all 4 shocks, front drivers side shock tower, many small things on the donor engine, and have done a TON of cleaning to the whole truck.
Ok so now it runs but I have a few issues I need to address before I can get it inspected.
1. It has NO power or pick-up at all. I think my 4 cyl Saturn can go faster. The donor engine ran excellent and only had 80K on it. I think either the timing is off or I missed a vacuum line somewere. It's like I step on the gas but have to FLOOR it to get any response out of it. I do have a check engine light... which I will pull the codes from first chance I get. I've already read the How-To on here so that's a plus.
2. The temp gauge does not work. The sensor is definitely there and plugged in but maybe it went bad? The engine doesn't appear to be overheating so that's good. Any suggestions? EDIT: Apparently there are two temp sensors. One for the gauge and one for the computer (for an L6). Is it the same for a V8?
3. I have power windows/locks. Passenger side works fine, drivers side does nothing. Is there 1 fuse for each option but common to both sides or is that just a GM thing? Sorry but I don't have an owners manual so it's easier to ask here.
4. The fuel gauge reads 1/2 at a stop sign, goes to just below 3/4 when I accelerate, then drops to 1/4 as I come to a stop. WTF?? This is on the front gas tank. Haven't checked the rear.
5. Lastly, there is A LOT of play in the steering wheel. So much to the extent that the whole truck sways left and right by just driving down the road. Not a whole lot but it's noticeable and makes it very hard to steer. The steering wheel is cocked 45* to the right to make the truck go straight. Maybe new tie rod ends and an alignment? The front tires are ok but man the rears are dry rotted from it sitting in a field for so long.
Alright well that's everything that I can see. Probably all just stupid small fixes, however, I'm normally a GM guy so Fords are a whole new ball game.
Thanks in advance for any and all replies.
Last edited by DeCaff2007; 09-21-2012 at 11:26 PM.
09-22-2012, 07:21 AM
#3
09-22-2012, 07:31 AM
#4
I had the same problem with the steering on mine when i got it. It can be sorted out at home but it's a real toughie.
The first thing is to assess the condition of the front end. Tie rod ends, ball joints, steering box, & power steering pump. They all have to be in reasonably good shape for an alignment.
Next, look at what the steering wheel is doing. It's off by 45 degrees but is there also excessive play ? Do you have to turn the steering wheel more than an inch either side of center before the tires start to turn ?
If that's the case it's probably in the steering box. There is an adjustment on the steering box to reduce play but you have to be be very careful about how you do it. It's worth a try but you'll probably need to replace the steering box to get rid of excessive play.
Once you know your front end is OK you can go on to alignment.
Ignore the steering wheel for a moment. Set the front tires somewhere near straight.
Tie a string to the U-bolt holding the rear leaf spring, run it around the rear tire halfway up and bring it up to the front tire. Bring it around the tire and tie it off to the outer tie rod end on that side. ( Make sure the string is humming tight )
Do the same thing on the other side.
Now you can start to adjust the toe in or toe out to align the front wheel with the back wheel. The toe in on many of our trucks is 1 deg. There's only so much you can do with the string so if you set the the front straight on it's good enough to regain reasonably good steering control.
If you get that far then you can start to get the steering wheel to agree with what the front tires are doing.
Point being: You'll save hours & hours of time and a lot of hassle if you let the alignment guys have first crack at it. Ask em' to put it up on the lift & check the front end for you.
The first thing is to assess the condition of the front end. Tie rod ends, ball joints, steering box, & power steering pump. They all have to be in reasonably good shape for an alignment.
Next, look at what the steering wheel is doing. It's off by 45 degrees but is there also excessive play ? Do you have to turn the steering wheel more than an inch either side of center before the tires start to turn ?
If that's the case it's probably in the steering box. There is an adjustment on the steering box to reduce play but you have to be be very careful about how you do it. It's worth a try but you'll probably need to replace the steering box to get rid of excessive play.
Once you know your front end is OK you can go on to alignment.
Ignore the steering wheel for a moment. Set the front tires somewhere near straight.
Tie a string to the U-bolt holding the rear leaf spring, run it around the rear tire halfway up and bring it up to the front tire. Bring it around the tire and tie it off to the outer tie rod end on that side. ( Make sure the string is humming tight )
Do the same thing on the other side.
Now you can start to adjust the toe in or toe out to align the front wheel with the back wheel. The toe in on many of our trucks is 1 deg. There's only so much you can do with the string so if you set the the front straight on it's good enough to regain reasonably good steering control.
If you get that far then you can start to get the steering wheel to agree with what the front tires are doing.
Point being: You'll save hours & hours of time and a lot of hassle if you let the alignment guys have first crack at it. Ask em' to put it up on the lift & check the front end for you.
09-22-2012, 07:55 AM
#5
I had the same problem with the steering on mine when i got it. It can be sorted out at home but it's a real toughie.
The first thing is to assess the condition of the front end. Tie rod ends, ball joints, steering box, & power steering pump. They all have to be in reasonably good shape for an alignment.
Next, look at what the steering wheel is doing. It's off by 45 degrees but is there also excessive play ? Do you have to turn the steering wheel more than an inch either side of center before the tires start to turn ?
If that's the case it's probably in the steering box. There is an adjustment on the steering box to reduce play but you have to be be very careful about how you do it. It's worth a try but you'll probably need to replace the steering box to get rid of excessive play.
Once you know your front end is OK you can go on to alignment.
Ignore the steering wheel for a moment. Set the front tires somewhere near straight.
Tie a string to the U-bolt holding the rear leaf spring, run it around the rear tire halfway up and bring it up to the front tire. Bring it around the tire and tie it off to the outer tie rod end on that side. ( Make sure the string is humming tight )
Do the same thing on the other side.
Now you can start to adjust the toe in or toe out to align the front wheel with the back wheel. The toe in on many of our trucks is 1 deg. There's only so much you can do with the string so if you set the the front straight on it's good enough to regain reasonably good steering control.
If you get that far then you can start to get the steering wheel to agree with what the front tires are doing.
Point being: You'll save hours & hours of time and a lot of hassle if you let the alignment guys have first crack at it. Ask em' to put it up on the lift & check the front end for you.
The first thing is to assess the condition of the front end. Tie rod ends, ball joints, steering box, & power steering pump. They all have to be in reasonably good shape for an alignment.
Next, look at what the steering wheel is doing. It's off by 45 degrees but is there also excessive play ? Do you have to turn the steering wheel more than an inch either side of center before the tires start to turn ?
If that's the case it's probably in the steering box. There is an adjustment on the steering box to reduce play but you have to be be very careful about how you do it. It's worth a try but you'll probably need to replace the steering box to get rid of excessive play.
Once you know your front end is OK you can go on to alignment.
Ignore the steering wheel for a moment. Set the front tires somewhere near straight.
Tie a string to the U-bolt holding the rear leaf spring, run it around the rear tire halfway up and bring it up to the front tire. Bring it around the tire and tie it off to the outer tie rod end on that side. ( Make sure the string is humming tight )
Do the same thing on the other side.
Now you can start to adjust the toe in or toe out to align the front wheel with the back wheel. The toe in on many of our trucks is 1 deg. There's only so much you can do with the string so if you set the the front straight on it's good enough to regain reasonably good steering control.
If you get that far then you can start to get the steering wheel to agree with what the front tires are doing.
Point being: You'll save hours & hours of time and a lot of hassle if you let the alignment guys have first crack at it. Ask em' to put it up on the lift & check the front end for you.
Ball joints look in decent shape. Haven't checked the tie rod ends. I'll do that soon.
My biggest worry is why the engine falls flat on it's face. Once that's figured, out the rest is cake.
09-23-2012, 08:04 AM
#7
For your viewing pleasure, performed to the letter according this: https://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-re...es-obdi-10907/
KOEO:
With engine running:
You guys might be able to read it better but here's the codes I pulled:
56
55
65
11
57
33
25
42
Is my truck EFFED or am I doing this totally wrong?
Thanks.
KOEO:
With engine running:
You guys might be able to read it better but here's the codes I pulled:
56
55
65
11
57
33
25
42
Is my truck EFFED or am I doing this totally wrong?
Thanks.
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DeCaff2007 (09-23-2012)
09-23-2012, 10:54 AM
#9
Ok so a few questions here.
Code 33 indicates an EGR fault. Should be an easy fix. That means either replacing the EGR valve and check/replace the vacuum lines going to it.
Code 25 indicates some kind of knock sensor issue. Where the hell is knock sensor on this thing?
Code 42 is a HEGO sensor. What is that and where is it? It has something to do with the system running rich (hence the backfiring).
Lastly, Code 57 has me really stumped: Octane adjust service pin in use / circuit grounded. WTF?
Code 33 indicates an EGR fault. Should be an easy fix. That means either replacing the EGR valve and check/replace the vacuum lines going to it.
Code 25 indicates some kind of knock sensor issue. Where the hell is knock sensor on this thing?
Code 42 is a HEGO sensor. What is that and where is it? It has something to do with the system running rich (hence the backfiring).
Lastly, Code 57 has me really stumped: Octane adjust service pin in use / circuit grounded. WTF?
09-23-2012, 12:07 PM
#10
A shop manual would make things easier. It shows you where everything is and gives you the skinny on how to do a diagnostic.
I'm still learning myself, but the HEGO is the oxygen sensor. It's very common to have problems there. The O2 sensor really needs to be right.
EGR problems are common too but you want to diagnose the EGR valve, it's position sensor, and the solonoid that runs it, along with the vacuum system.
Anti knock is mounted down somewhere lower.
Never even heard of the octane adjust service pin.
From what i've read, it's best to start troubleshooting the codes in the order in which they were received. Sometimes clearing that first code will resolve the others.
ETA: Can you send along a photo of the vacuum system diagram that's under the hood ? If there's one on the motor send that along too.
I'm still learning myself, but the HEGO is the oxygen sensor. It's very common to have problems there. The O2 sensor really needs to be right.
EGR problems are common too but you want to diagnose the EGR valve, it's position sensor, and the solonoid that runs it, along with the vacuum system.
Anti knock is mounted down somewhere lower.
Never even heard of the octane adjust service pin.
From what i've read, it's best to start troubleshooting the codes in the order in which they were received. Sometimes clearing that first code will resolve the others.
ETA: Can you send along a photo of the vacuum system diagram that's under the hood ? If there's one on the motor send that along too.
Last edited by LobstahClaw; 09-23-2012 at 12:11 PM. Reason: add to
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Never_Evil (09-23-2012)