Finally got it running, now need help fine tuning.
09-23-2012, 01:03 PM
#11
Senior Member
DeCaff, Did you just swap out the Mustang long block or did you attempt to swap the entire engine (intake, throttle body, sensors, etc)? If you used the entire Mustang engine then you have a whole lot of work to do with the engine management computer. Even swapping the long block might have a few issues. Wish I could help, but it's hard to diagnose engine issues on the internet.
09-23-2012, 07:54 PM
#12
Used the Mustang block and heads but used the F150 intake manifold, throttle body, and any sensors that weren't broken. Everything plugged right in and lined right up otherwise.
I had been looking for an F150 engine to drop in but people want A LOT of money for JUNK so I grabbed this engine because a 302 is a 302 and it was priced right.
I did pull the heads off because I broke an intake manifold bolt off inside each head. That was a good chance to inspect the cylinders. NO wear rings and wow I could still see the crosshatching on the cylinder walls.
So at that point, I tore the whole engine down and replaced every gasket and seal (except the freeze plugs.. really should have done those).
@ LobstahClaw: I have a Chiltons guide but it's the electronic version. Still works...
Also, not sure if there's any vacuum line diagrams anywhere. I check for those first chance I get.
Now that the weekend is over, God only know the next chance I'll have to work on this poor truck.
P.S.: On the bright side, since I can move this loaf under it's own power, I've been able to make room in my work area for my next project...
I had been looking for an F150 engine to drop in but people want A LOT of money for JUNK so I grabbed this engine because a 302 is a 302 and it was priced right.
I did pull the heads off because I broke an intake manifold bolt off inside each head. That was a good chance to inspect the cylinders. NO wear rings and wow I could still see the crosshatching on the cylinder walls.
So at that point, I tore the whole engine down and replaced every gasket and seal (except the freeze plugs.. really should have done those).
@ LobstahClaw: I have a Chiltons guide but it's the electronic version. Still works...
Also, not sure if there's any vacuum line diagrams anywhere. I check for those first chance I get.
Now that the weekend is over, God only know the next chance I'll have to work on this poor truck.
P.S.: On the bright side, since I can move this loaf under it's own power, I've been able to make room in my work area for my next project...
09-24-2012, 03:30 PM
#13
Do not ASSUME
LobstahClaw is correct;
When you begin your troubleshoot, check the first code first in the order it was recorded. Never assume a part is bad until you first verify the sensor wire is good, and reading the correct values. It is often possible to pinch or accidentally ground a stray wire during an engine install. ALWAYS disconnect the battery ground before ANY electrical connection is made or disconnected. NEVER touch the positive and negative cables together to discharge your keep alive power. A weak resistor could fry one or more computer boards. If you need to discharge everything at once, disconnect the negative battery cable and turn the ignition key to ON.. it will drain all stored power immediately.
Since the engine was used, and "assumed" good because it ran when tested does not mean all parts were good. And, on the other hand, you don't really know the full condition of existing installed parts in your truck. So then, there you go.. test, test, test starting from first code, to next in line.
DO NOT BUY new parts until you are certain the part your are about to replace is indeed bad. Many times all it takes is a little help (cleaning) to free a sticky solenoid or actuator assembly. Use good judgement. If a troubled part is in a very awkward location to service, replace it so you are not back there again for the same reason. Believe it or not, oxygen sensors rarely fail. Most are replaced only to set off another code in a few hours or days. The reason is, a new oxygen sensor has a wider range (range of values) during operation than an original. It will take time for it to set a code.
A factory service manual (FSM) is your most valuable tool. Most can be purchased on eBay either in printed or CD-ROM format, but be sure to get the FACTORY service manual(s), not some general auto parts store manual.
When you begin your troubleshoot, check the first code first in the order it was recorded. Never assume a part is bad until you first verify the sensor wire is good, and reading the correct values. It is often possible to pinch or accidentally ground a stray wire during an engine install. ALWAYS disconnect the battery ground before ANY electrical connection is made or disconnected. NEVER touch the positive and negative cables together to discharge your keep alive power. A weak resistor could fry one or more computer boards. If you need to discharge everything at once, disconnect the negative battery cable and turn the ignition key to ON.. it will drain all stored power immediately.
Since the engine was used, and "assumed" good because it ran when tested does not mean all parts were good. And, on the other hand, you don't really know the full condition of existing installed parts in your truck. So then, there you go.. test, test, test starting from first code, to next in line.
DO NOT BUY new parts until you are certain the part your are about to replace is indeed bad. Many times all it takes is a little help (cleaning) to free a sticky solenoid or actuator assembly. Use good judgement. If a troubled part is in a very awkward location to service, replace it so you are not back there again for the same reason. Believe it or not, oxygen sensors rarely fail. Most are replaced only to set off another code in a few hours or days. The reason is, a new oxygen sensor has a wider range (range of values) during operation than an original. It will take time for it to set a code.
A factory service manual (FSM) is your most valuable tool. Most can be purchased on eBay either in printed or CD-ROM format, but be sure to get the FACTORY service manual(s), not some general auto parts store manual.
09-24-2012, 04:37 PM
#14
Senior Member
Did you use the mustang or truck computer? From the top code 56 says Maf ( Mass air flow ) and TOT ( trans oil temp ) sensors are out of range. Look up the tests for those in your guide and check them with a DMM. Next 55 says keyed power to input open. Sounds like you have a bad switched lead to the ecu. Need to check your diagram for that. 65 is just the overdrive button. You need to press it during the self check. Take care of the koeo first then, especially the power open, then move forward.
09-24-2012, 04:43 PM
#15
Senior Member
Re reading your posted codes. Some don't make sense. Which are koer ( engine running ) and which are Koeo ( engine off ). Some of this codes are only for engine running and code 11 means test passed all clear. I recommend re testing per the sticky on this site.
Last edited by Warlockk; 09-25-2012 at 02:51 AM.
09-24-2012, 06:42 PM
#16
If there are any discrepancies between the two you'll probably need to resolve those.
The general rule of thumb is to bring the motor into agreement with the diagram that's on the hood because that's what the computer that came with the truck understands how to operate.
09-25-2012, 08:40 PM
#17
Wow, so many replies and I've almost NO time to do anything since my last post.
All I've done so far is try firing order for a Mustang and went over a few vacuum lines.
Get this: The firing order on the radiator support of the F150 MATCHES the Chilton's guide firing order for a Mustang, HOWEVER, it does NOT match the Chiltons firing order for an F150. Strange?!?!?
I tried both firing orders to no avail.
Yes, that code about a bad switched power or something... The ignition switch on the column is TOAST. I can turn it 360* clockwise or counterclockwise with or w/out a key in it. I can pull the key no matter where it's turned but I can only insert the key if it's in the CORRECT position.
I'm going to replace the EGR valve and the fuel regulator.
The codes I posted were KOEO only. I didn't check the codes for ER. The vids I posted were shot using the EXACT method sticky'd in the How-To Section.
Now, if I could just get some friggin TIME to work on this thing, that would be nice.
All I've done so far is try firing order for a Mustang and went over a few vacuum lines.
Get this: The firing order on the radiator support of the F150 MATCHES the Chilton's guide firing order for a Mustang, HOWEVER, it does NOT match the Chiltons firing order for an F150. Strange?!?!?
I tried both firing orders to no avail.
Yes, that code about a bad switched power or something... The ignition switch on the column is TOAST. I can turn it 360* clockwise or counterclockwise with or w/out a key in it. I can pull the key no matter where it's turned but I can only insert the key if it's in the CORRECT position.
I'm going to replace the EGR valve and the fuel regulator.
The codes I posted were KOEO only. I didn't check the codes for ER. The vids I posted were shot using the EXACT method sticky'd in the How-To Section.
Now, if I could just get some friggin TIME to work on this thing, that would be nice.
09-26-2012, 02:17 AM
#18
Senior Member
Originally Posted by DeCaff2007
Wow, so many replies and I've almost NO time to do anything since my last post.
All I've done so far is try firing order for a Mustang and went over a few vacuum lines.
Get this: The firing order on the radiator support of the F150 MATCHES the Chilton's guide firing order for a Mustang, HOWEVER, it does NOT match the Chiltons firing order for an F150. Strange?!?!?
I tried both firing orders to no avail.
Yes, that code about a bad switched power or something... The ignition switch on the column is TOAST. I can turn it 360* clockwise or counterclockwise with or w/out a key in it. I can pull the key no matter where it's turned but I can only insert the key if it's in the CORRECT position.
I'm going to replace the EGR valve and the fuel regulator.
The codes I posted were KOEO only. I didn't check the codes for ER. The vids I posted were shot using the EXACT method sticky'd in the How-To Section.
Now, if I could just get some friggin TIME to work on this thing, that would be nice.
All I've done so far is try firing order for a Mustang and went over a few vacuum lines.
Get this: The firing order on the radiator support of the F150 MATCHES the Chilton's guide firing order for a Mustang, HOWEVER, it does NOT match the Chiltons firing order for an F150. Strange?!?!?
I tried both firing orders to no avail.
Yes, that code about a bad switched power or something... The ignition switch on the column is TOAST. I can turn it 360* clockwise or counterclockwise with or w/out a key in it. I can pull the key no matter where it's turned but I can only insert the key if it's in the CORRECT position.
I'm going to replace the EGR valve and the fuel regulator.
The codes I posted were KOEO only. I didn't check the codes for ER. The vids I posted were shot using the EXACT method sticky'd in the How-To Section.
Now, if I could just get some friggin TIME to work on this thing, that would be nice.
09-26-2012, 07:50 AM
#19
Hey all.
I have a 95 F150 Centurion. 5.0, 4X4, auto, extended cab, 208K miles.
I bought it knowing it was going to need lots of work. First thing I did was pull the engine and install a refreshed 5.0 from a 95 Mustang. I have also replaced all 4 shocks, front drivers side shock tower, many small things on the donor engine, and have done a TON of cleaning to the whole truck.
Ok so now it runs but I have a few issues I need to address before I can get it inspected.
1. It has NO power or pick-up at all. I think my 4 cyl Saturn can go faster. The donor engine ran excellent and only had 80K on it. I think either the timing is off or I missed a vacuum line somewere. It's like I step on the gas but have to FLOOR it to get any response out of it. I do have a check engine light... which I will pull the codes from first chance I get. I've already read the How-To on here so that's a plus.
2. The temp gauge does not work. The sensor is definitely there and plugged in but maybe it went bad? The engine doesn't appear to be overheating so that's good. Any suggestions? EDIT: Apparently there are two temp sensors. One for the gauge and one for the computer (for an L6). Is it the same for a V8?
3. I have power windows/locks. Passenger side works fine, drivers side does nothing. Is there 1 fuse for each option but common to both sides or is that just a GM thing? Sorry but I don't have an owners manual so it's easier to ask here.
4. The fuel gauge reads 1/2 at a stop sign, goes to just below 3/4 when I accelerate, then drops to 1/4 as I come to a stop. WTF?? This is on the front gas tank. Haven't checked the rear.
5. Lastly, there is A LOT of play in the steering wheel. So much to the extent that the whole truck sways left and right by just driving down the road. Not a whole lot but it's noticeable and makes it very hard to steer. The steering wheel is cocked 45* to the right to make the truck go straight. Maybe new tie rod ends and an alignment? The front tires are ok but man the rears are dry rotted from it sitting in a field for so long.
Alright well that's everything that I can see. Probably all just stupid small fixes, however, I'm normally a GM guy so Fords are a whole new ball game.
Thanks in advance for any and all replies.
I have a 95 F150 Centurion. 5.0, 4X4, auto, extended cab, 208K miles.
I bought it knowing it was going to need lots of work. First thing I did was pull the engine and install a refreshed 5.0 from a 95 Mustang. I have also replaced all 4 shocks, front drivers side shock tower, many small things on the donor engine, and have done a TON of cleaning to the whole truck.
Ok so now it runs but I have a few issues I need to address before I can get it inspected.
1. It has NO power or pick-up at all. I think my 4 cyl Saturn can go faster. The donor engine ran excellent and only had 80K on it. I think either the timing is off or I missed a vacuum line somewere. It's like I step on the gas but have to FLOOR it to get any response out of it. I do have a check engine light... which I will pull the codes from first chance I get. I've already read the How-To on here so that's a plus.
2. The temp gauge does not work. The sensor is definitely there and plugged in but maybe it went bad? The engine doesn't appear to be overheating so that's good. Any suggestions? EDIT: Apparently there are two temp sensors. One for the gauge and one for the computer (for an L6). Is it the same for a V8?
3. I have power windows/locks. Passenger side works fine, drivers side does nothing. Is there 1 fuse for each option but common to both sides or is that just a GM thing? Sorry but I don't have an owners manual so it's easier to ask here.
4. The fuel gauge reads 1/2 at a stop sign, goes to just below 3/4 when I accelerate, then drops to 1/4 as I come to a stop. WTF?? This is on the front gas tank. Haven't checked the rear.
5. Lastly, there is A LOT of play in the steering wheel. So much to the extent that the whole truck sways left and right by just driving down the road. Not a whole lot but it's noticeable and makes it very hard to steer. The steering wheel is cocked 45* to the right to make the truck go straight. Maybe new tie rod ends and an alignment? The front tires are ok but man the rears are dry rotted from it sitting in a field for so long.
Alright well that's everything that I can see. Probably all just stupid small fixes, however, I'm normally a GM guy so Fords are a whole new ball game.
Thanks in advance for any and all replies.
With enough will & determination you can accomplish almost anything but you might want to step back and ask yourself if the juice is worth the squeeze.
A 17 year old truck with that many miles really doesn't have all that much value.
Last edited by LobstahClaw; 09-26-2012 at 08:04 AM. Reason: clarification
09-27-2012, 05:58 PM
#20
It's just a ballpark guess, but, given the overall condition of the truck you're probably looking at over 200 man hours of labor & a couple of grand in parts to make the truck right again.
With enough will & determination you can accomplish almost anything but you might want to step back and ask yourself if the juice is worth the squeeze.
A 17 year old truck with that many miles really doesn't have all that much value.
With enough will & determination you can accomplish almost anything but you might want to step back and ask yourself if the juice is worth the squeeze.
A 17 year old truck with that many miles really doesn't have all that much value.
I ran a compression test. ~120 psi in all cylinders. I guess that's low.
I'm just about through with this damn thing. I need it gone actually. I have other MUCH more important projects that need attention.
Since I'll have some time this weekend, the EGR valve (or solenoid, whatever it is) and fuel pressure regulator will get replaced. If that doesn't help.... it's going on Craigslist.
Oh and @ Warlock: What do you mean "how is the ignition set up"? It only goes on one way.
I used the F150 ECU but I'm beginning to think it's bad.
For anyone wondering what parts were used from what: The block and heads are from the Mustang. The intake manifold, distributor, emissions, fuel injectors, and pretty much everything else are F150.