rscotth

Hello- I haven't been here for so long it's like my first post but I am back and modifing the ole half ton.
Well I just had enough with the TTB tire eating issues and excessive steering wheel play so I dove in head first and modified the steering.

1st thing I got rid of the rag joint which is an eye sore and source of wheel play. I replaced the joint with a real universal joint from Flaming River. Actually this was a piece I had left over from a mustang project.

2nd I bought a rebuilt steering box and installed it.

3rd since I am lifted about 4"-5" I needed to address the crappy tie rod angles that eat the tires by designing my own steering system since there is no real good aftermarket.

End result is a "K" type steering with DOM parts from BulletProof Steering and their rod ends. Yeah it's a bit over kill but looks beefy as well. The end result is the "tie rods" are in the same radius as the IFS axle! This was a pretty involved mod that utilizes an idler steering gear on the passenger side. this actually started out as a super runner steering but it didn't totally correct the steering geometry- just helped. It also used factory type rod ends which aren't that great to start with.
Next will be a roller motor install with a cobra computer......................

gearhead

I like it! The idler arm should relieve stress on the steering gear & frame, as well as the corrected geometry. The replaceable tie rod ends should be inexpensive to replace. Question, is there an adjuster sleeve on the tie rods?


I did some mild editing to enhance detail in the photo (sharpened, lightened). Hope that's ok with you.

mitchalvin

I have seen a set up like this before, down south on a lifted 250 with 44 he claimed to of bought it from the shop who did the lifting. This was in 95 so the suspension and bodies have not been changed yet.

Ty

why not just go with a sas?

mitchalvin

When I get around to working on my 250 that's what I plan on doing. Though with the 250 all I have to change is the springs and find a housing out of either a low boy or a later 350. The high boys have a narrow frame and spring mounts.

rscotth

The sperical rod ends don't have an adjustable sleeve since the tubing is tapped and the rod ends thread directly into the tube and secure with a jam nut. These aren't the cheap circle track heim joints a lot of people cheap out and use. There is a member in the club I wheel with and he's been running the same set on a solid axle for over 3 years now and they are still tight with no play- on a daily driver.

http://www.bulletproofsteering.com/rodendspecs.html

I don't have any need to go to solid at this point. I have an advertised 24" of suspension travel- I have corrected the tire wear issue for a fraction of the price of a conversion. I have never broken anything while off road-well, axle wise except for hubs. Uses dana 44 parts and it rides way better than both my solid axle trucks. I do wish it had the bigger knuckles of the dane 50/60.

I will be going into the front soon to setup the 4.09's and Auburn Pro sitting in the garage along with 4.10's in the rear with a Powertrax.

gearhead

Threaded ends make the adjuster sleeve redundant, and the setup much stronger. DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel) tubing is used in applications requiring strength & exacting tolerances (such as hydraulic cylinders in cranes, dump trucks, & forklifts). I used to sell that tubing.

Thanks for the link on the spherical rod ends. I have a car with a NeuSpeed rear anti-sway bar, has the cheap ends requiring constant lubrication, it's a pain in the *** to maintain. Looks like I can finally do away with the cheap ends.

ttavenieriii

hey just curious about how much did this total set up cost u?



I did some mild editing to enhance detail in the photo (sharpened, lightened). Hope that's ok with you.


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foxrider870

Check out mine

rscotth

Thanks for the picture edit guys- you can even see the holes in the power stop rotors now!

Gearhead: Bulletproof also sells specific rod ends for suspension. They are the same price as the type for steering applications.

ttavenieriii: The basic setup cost $389.00 through BPS. A little pricey but they are hard core pieces with a lifetime warranty. Everything else was fabricated or left over from a previous mustang mod.
The universal joint from Flaming River was from the stang. I was looking at it one day and noticed the splines for the steering gear and rod were the same, so that was a bonus. The factory used the spongy rag joint and a plastic liner around the shaft which acts like a shim to take out the play. Of course mine fell apart when I removed it- yikes!