coper32

I have been having some trouble with my truck. It has been having some trouble starting I have to give it some gas sometimes and then it will struggle to get to a good idle. That I have been dealing with it and adjusted the idler and it seemed to fix for a couple days but the problem returned. Today I was driving and it started knocking at partial-throttle also the water temp gauge was on "hot". The knocking went away went i let off the pedal and when i put the pedal to the floor. I checked the fluid levels and they are good. Haven't had a lot of time to look into it so a good starting point would be appreciated.

wde3477

Welcome to the site!

First suggestion for a non-obvious engine problem is to pull the computer codes. I didn't see the model year in your post, so can't say whether you have the OBD-I or OBD-II computer - each requires a different tester, with the OBD-I being simple enough that there's a sticky-note somewhere here on the forum describing how.

Concerned on the part about adjusting the idler. If this is the set screw for the butterfly - eh, that's not what it's there for. Only there to keep the butterfly from wedging in the throat, and generally never needs tweaking.

Knocking at part-throttle could be any one of many causes - bad gas, poor ignition, one fouled plug leaning the other cylinders out, etc.

Pulling codes is a good start. It may not tell you what it is, but will help to tell what it's not.

Good luck and keep us posted.

coper32

I will check that out, and sorry i have a 1988 f-150 xlt lariat with the 5.0l 2wd. They should have whatever code reader i would need at advanced auto or auto zone. so as soon as i get a chance i will head over there (slowly of course) i appreciate the advice.

coper32

went to get a computer hooked up but autozone couldnt do it cuz its an 88 and a obd-1 is needed so i went to a mechanic and he wanted to charge me 85 dollars to hook it up to the computer so i punted and bought a thermostat a lot of information on google said it could be that and that seemed like my cheapest route to try first. it was a pain to get the old one out had to take off the ac compressor and the power steering pump to get to the right hand bolt but i got it changed and refilled with 50/50 burped it and caped it. had a little leak at the gasket at first but the stop leak seemed to get to it and seal it up, if it starts leaking again i will just take it off and make a rtv gasket i seem to have better luck with those but it seems to be working i ran it for about 15 mins and the temp went about halfway up and then dropped to a little over 1/4 way up, and stayed there. im calling it a success for now, and to celebrate saving a boatload of money im going fishing tomorrow. thanks for the advice, it indirectly got me to the problem cuz if i wouldnt have stopped at the mechanics he wouldnt have explained to me why it should be the thermostat and that the knocking was a result of the fuel vaporizing from the motor being too hot. ( i noticed on the way over there that it wouldnt knock unless it was super hot).

kc0rey

Stop leak is to get you home.
It is not intended to be a permanent repair. If the gasket leak you should have removed the housing, find out why it leaked, and repaired it.

Stop leak can and will plug up all those little water passages in your head and intake manifold as well as the heater core.

Wondertwin1

My dad has 30 years of mechanical experience. First thing he told me when i bought my truck was to NEVER, under any cirfumstances, use ANY kind of stop leak. It siezes up water pumps and clogs hoses. Biiiiig problems.