Engine wont start! HELP PLEASE!
April 2010 TOTM Winner
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 515
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From: Panama City, FL
my 4.9L does not require the distributor to be removed to replace the ICM.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,499
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From: Liberty, MO
You'll probably save yourself a ton of headaches if you matchmark the base of the distributor and just spin it to where you can get the module off. Once the new module is on, just spin it back to where the marks line up.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 58,557
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From: Long Beach Calimexifornia
nope it hasnt started yet, and 1987, its a single tank, rare i guess for that year of truck, havnt checked the relays yet, budhaman- i just changed the fuel filter 2 days ago hoping it help, but nothing yet, and NO spark so im about to go out and replace the ignition control module and hope it works. Also random but is it only that one bolt to get the whole distributor out? it needs to be all taken out to get to one of the screws on the ICM.
Make
Ford
Model
F150 XLT Lariat
Year
1990
Engine
5.0L
Replace the PIP sensor at the same time or you'll regret it sooner than later: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=25
Last edited by ymeski56; Nov 25, 2010 at 10:39 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,658
Likes: 28
From: Henderson, NV.
I really like alliens tip on the ICM replacement. Just for laughs, check on the price difference for a complete distributor replacement. You just might be surprised. Keep the job as simple as possible, you are going to have fun just R & R the distributor, let alone pressing off the distributor gear to replace the hall effect sensor or pick up as it is called.
Soak the distributor base area to loosed the oil varnish which is making the dist hard to remove.
Another thought comes to mind, does the rotor turn? Thinking timing chain.
Soak the distributor base area to loosed the oil varnish which is making the dist hard to remove.
Another thought comes to mind, does the rotor turn? Thinking timing chain.
Last edited by Good old Bill; Nov 25, 2010 at 11:00 AM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 152
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
There is that lump ther that wont allow anything to get to the 7/16 hex, so i guess it is different than the I6 
Edit: yes ive tried to peel away at the plactic to get to the hex easier but doesnt help
Edit: yes ive tried to peel away at the plactic to get to the hex easier but doesnt help
Last edited by tman71594; Nov 26, 2010 at 04:47 PM. Reason: it is 7/16 not 7/32
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,658
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From: Henderson, NV.
Ok, the engine was turned to align the rotor with #1 tower, the timing marks on the balancer should should be near the pointer, right? Now as you finally remove the distributor, watch the rotor position as the dist is lifted out. This will help with the installation and initial fire up of the engine.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 152
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
Well just put in the new ICM and it fired right up! not even a single struggle to start! the engine now runs smoother, quieter and much easier. So all together it has a new ignition coil, distributor cap, ignition rotor, and ignition control module. Next is an oil change tomorrow!! Thanks so much everyone, i couldn't have done it without all your help, i wouldn't have known to replace the icm without anyone telling me it could be the problem!