engine light with cruise control or OD off
 

1992 F-150 5.0... When I am driving and turn off the overdrive, the check engine light comes on. Also, if I turn on the cruise control, the
check engine light comes on. It goes away when I turn them back off, or on in the case of the OD. What can be the cause of this issue?

Thanks

Read the 2 TSBs near the bottom of this caption:

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/.../dlc-eeciv.jpg
(phone app link)

I bought a code reader and am getting the following code. C) 332 insufficient EGR flow detected.

I inspected all of the vacuum lines, and the coffee can looks ok. What should I do next?

Maybe a dumb question but if I am running the test in KOEO (engine off mode) , how can it sense insufficient flow? Is the code I am getting just stored
in memory (obviously) and when will the code disappear so I know it has been fixed? Do I have to wait the 40 or whatever warmup cycles?

Return the code reader for refund - it's not worth whatever it cost.

The "C" means that code is only stored in Continuous memory. Did you read the caption of that diagram I posted above? It explains how to clear codes properly.

The coffee can fails in ways that are NOT apparent. Just assume it's bad, and get the later plastic one. They're easy to find in JYs, and cheap.

But that's not the correct definition of that number for these trucks. Your truck doesn't even have a sensor to detect EGR flow. Read that caption, and this one:

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...egrtubesv8.jpg
(phone app link)

So, to erase the (c) codes, I have to first ground the test connection as you specified, and then unground it before the self test is complete?
Also, my check engine light only lights up, never blinks codes. Is this because I have to ground the test connections first to get the CEL to
blink codes? I would think it would do that automatically from the factory. Does disconnecting the battery erase these codes?
And I see the code I received you have listed as the EGR opening is not being detected. What can be the cause of this? I have replaced the vacuum line going from the harness
to the EGR valve, and it actually runs worse now. When I put the truck in any gear, it wants to stall.
Does anyone have any advice? Should I buy a new EGR? I see there can be many other possible causes and I don't want to just keep throwing parts at this truck.

Yes, you have to trigger the CEL to flash out codes. Normally, it just comes on to indicate problems.

READ THAT CAPTION about disconnecting the battery.

That code can be caused by:
EEC failure
EGR not opening (due to low/no vacuum, EVR failure, EGR diaphragm failure, or EGR sticking mechanically)
EVP failure
wiring faults
dirty battery terminals...

I already gave you some advice. DON'T blindly buy parts to swap. Diagnose the problem, find the root cause, and repair it (not necessarily REPLACE anything). Diagnosis is easier when you understand how the system works. Did you read that last caption fully, enough times to understand it?

OK thank Steve....