Good old Bill

Failed to mention, Big White is looking good!

Talmbla

OK, did the russian fuel pressure test and there is definitely fuel hitting the fuel rail. Need to check spark and still need to run out and grab starter fluid to see if that does anything. The timing is there, took off the distributor cap and cranked the engine and the piece inside there turns, so that solves the timing. wondering if it's the peice that sends spark to the distributor cap? Could the ECU have taken a **** and died as well?

Good old Bill

OK, we have fuel, and the rotor turns. Rotate engine by hand and stop at the 10 degree before TDC. Does the rotor point to either #1 or #6 towers? For this level of checking timing, that is all we need to know. It will point to one of those cylinders and by rotating the crank one full turn it will point to the other. Another thing I asked was, do you hear the injectors click and the engine cranks over? Might need something to transmit the injector noise to your ear. Preferrably a stethoscope.

Talmbla

Definitely hearing the injectors click. There is spark that is heading to from the ignition module to the distributor, as well as from the distributor to the cylinders. Just bought a 5 dollar inline tester thing. For the timing, I looked in the haynes and it told me to turn it until it started...So I did that and still nothing. I sprayed starter fluid in before I had missed with the timing and there was nothing from that either. Starting to get at wits end with this thing. Would the ECU have anything to do with this?

Good old Bill

If you have spark at the plug wires, spray starting fluid into the intake, and the engine does not start, then the engine is either out of cam timing or its flooded. Hold throttle to floor to shut off injectors and see what happens. I don't know what Bone Head said to turn the distributor untill it starts, that intelligence is older than me.

Talmbla

The haynes told me to try the turning thing. Would the engine stay flooded? It's been a week since the problem has happened.

Talmbla

Compression test: 60 PSI on number 1 cylinder
Fuel pressure test: 40 PSI to fuel rails
Fuel Injectors are getting pulses
Distributor Cap rotor does turn when cranking engine, leading me to believe that the timing chain is still functioning. Looked for the cam through the oil cap, piece of steel that blocks view.
Spark is hitting cylinder head. Verified during compression test, as well as the inline tester that I bought and checked on each cylinder.

What else could this be? Everything is there! Is it a sensor that I'm missing? TPS? MAP?

Lions8150

i have just had this same problem. I spent a week trying to figure it out and installing new parts. New fuel filter, pumps, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, thermostat, CTS. Finally i gave up and had it towed to a shop. The next day that called and said it was the throttle position sensor, they replaced, and she started right up.

Talmbla

Replaced the TPS and it still would not start. Also tested all of the cylinders for compression, ended up at an average of 120 PSI.

Talmbla

Okay, so after everything, I replaced the timing belt due to the fact that it had 8* of play when aligning the #1 cylinder to top dead, and then moving it backwards and checking the rotor to see when it moved. I suspected that it may have jumped a tooth... When I put the new belt on, the timing marks were already lined up. Would the fact that the old chain was loose as all hell be the cause of the no start? Could it do that? Did I do all this work in vain?