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Electric Fan Question

Old 05-16-2018, 01:04 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by clintm6 View Post
The Control module wiring is not too difficult, and you only need one because it controls two fans on separate circuits with separate relays. The link I posted earlier was for a single fan, but this one is for dual fans: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...SABEgJw3_D_BwE
I used this fan kit https://ffdynamics.com/products/f15028 but I had repeated problems with their controller that's why I replaced it with the Hayden. But the fans work good and you can buy them separately
The instructions on the controller should tell you how to wire it up, but on my truck the black/yellow wire from the A/C compressor plug wired in to the green wire on the A/C circuit of the controller.
Also, I used this fitting in the upper radiator hose https://www.ebay.com/itm/44mm-or-1-3...72.m2749.l2649 and a screw in temperature sensor (can't find the link!).

I'm sure you can find a controller that comes with a threaded temp sensor unless you're comfortable using the probe through the radiator.
If you take a look at my album, you'll see some pics of the set-up I did, but feel free to ask for any help!
Sorry if I am missing something. Did you wire a different temperature sender into the Hayden controller or did you figure out a way to use the temperature probe that comes with the Hayden controller with the threaded receiver that you installed in the upper radiator hose? I would definitely prefer to install the threaded receiver with a threaded temperature probe instead of attaching the probe that comes with the Hayden controller to the radiator as suggested in their instructions.
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Old 05-16-2018, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Lazarus-F150 View Post
I ended up ordering a dual fan assembly from 1A Auto for a 1999 Chrysler 300M and the Hayden (model #3654) controller. Also, just picked up a new radiator from Napa and already had an ACDelco (part #88926186) water pump that I bought earlier and hadn't gotten around to replacing. I still haven't been able to find slotted flat bar for mounting the fans (maybe I suck at the internet...). Can anyone suggest a good place to find it?
Quick update so far... apparently the 1999 Chrysler 300M fan assembly from 1A Auto wouldn't be a good fit for the F150 radiator (its mounting brackets are on the sides and extend past places that I would have though to be good for attaching mounting brackets. I ended up returning the 1A Auto fans and ordering a pair of 12" fans (part #FFD12) from FF Dynamics, which should arrive tomorrow.

I found some flat bar, finally... it turns out that I just had to go to a different Lowes.... at least they have a pretty good variety of steel and aluminum stock. I'm planning to take Clintm6's approach and get some 3/4" aluminum L-channels and mount them through the extra metal on the top and bottom of the new radiator. Fingers crossed...
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:32 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Lazarus-F150 View Post
Sorry if I am missing something. Did you wire a different temperature sender into the Hayden controller or did you figure out a way to use the temperature probe that comes with the Hayden controller with the threaded receiver that you installed in the upper radiator hose? I would definitely prefer to install the threaded receiver with a threaded temperature probe instead of attaching the probe that comes with the Hayden controller to the radiator as suggested in their instructions.
I just cut the temp probe off and connected in the threaded connector. Doesn't really matter which wire goes to the other as long as their both connected.
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Old 05-18-2018, 08:14 AM
  #34  
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I'm going to use Clintm6's approach, but was wondering if I could put the sensor in the plugged port on the thermostat housing neck (see red circle in attached photo). Once the fan is out it looks like clearance won't be a problem and the sensor would see the same temperature as it would an in-line approach.

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Old 05-18-2018, 08:22 AM
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I don't see why you couldn't use that port! Mine didn't have one like that or I would have used it too!
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Old 05-18-2018, 10:40 AM
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Think about it... That side only gets flow when the t-stat is open. So the fan won't respond as quickly as it should to temperature changes around 195F (when the t-stat is opening & closing). That's why Ford didn't put any sensor on that side - they're all on the heater core loop, which always has flow.


(phone app link)
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Old 05-18-2018, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
Think about it... That side only gets flow when the t-stat is open. So the fan won't respond as quickly as it should to temperature changes around 195F (when the t-stat is opening & closing). That's why Ford didn't put any sensor on that side - they're all on the heater core loop, which always has flow.


(phone app link)
That makes sense and the heater core loop would be best. Does the thermostat open gradually as the temperature increases since the plunger moves as a function of the expansion of the air in the attached cylinder (sorry for not using their technical names)? It would respond slower, as you said, but the coolant in the radiator loop should be increasing as the engine warms up, right?
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Old 05-19-2018, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Lazarus-F150 View Post
Does the thermostat open gradually...?
No, it's relatively sudden & binary (open or closed - not much in-between).
Originally Posted by Lazarus-F150 View Post
...the plunger moves as a function of the expansion of the air in the attached cylinder...
No, there is no air. It's wax.
Originally Posted by Lazarus-F150 View Post
...the coolant in the radiator loop should be increasing as the engine warms up, right?
No, the t-stat blocks off the radiator loop until the engine reaches the t-stat temperature. So until then, the radiator is stable at ambient temp.
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Old 05-19-2018, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
No, it's relatively sudden & binary (open or closed - not much in-between).No, there is no air. It's wax.No, the t-stat blocks off the radiator loop until the engine reaches the t-stat temperature. So until then, the radiator is stable at ambient temp.
Thanks on all counts! Good things to know!
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Old 06-01-2018, 07:31 AM
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I'm in the process of wiring the fan controlled and wanted to get suggestions on a good wire to tap for keyed-on power (preferably, but not necessarily, on the passenger side of the engine bay). To avoid confusion, I am not referring to constant-on power (i.e. positive battery terminal). In this case, the keyed-on power is used to power the controller itself.

Thanks!
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