Electric Fan Question
05-07-2018, 08:18 PM
#11
Senior Member
I don't think the e-fan / no e-fan debate will ever be decided one way or the other! But I do think if someone wants to give it a try, go right ahead! And if you don't want to, that's great too! Just giving the benefit of my experience with the fans if someone wants to know what I did!
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05-07-2018, 08:37 PM
#12
Martin
To answer the original question you need a relay for each fan you install and a decent controller. On my Efan setup I used Derale dual fans with shroud, this comes as a kit. I used a Dakota Digital controller. A junk yard car fan won't cut it when you put a load on or hook up a trailer. It just won't move enough air, the factory clutch system can move a lot of air when fully locked.
IMO only a couple scenarios make Efans worth the cost.
The truck has been hot rodded so efans free up power and keep the engine cool at low rpms.
The truck is driven in a hot climate and the efans keep air moving past the ac condenser. In this case a fan clutch might be locked most of the time driving and this kills power.
My truck was a combo of the two, it has a supercharger and in the summer the clutch fan would be locked most of the time. It really defeated adding the supercharger.
IMO only a couple scenarios make Efans worth the cost.
The truck has been hot rodded so efans free up power and keep the engine cool at low rpms.
The truck is driven in a hot climate and the efans keep air moving past the ac condenser. In this case a fan clutch might be locked most of the time driving and this kills power.
My truck was a combo of the two, it has a supercharger and in the summer the clutch fan would be locked most of the time. It really defeated adding the supercharger.
05-07-2018, 08:40 PM
#13
The E fan doesn't so much increase the fuel mileage, as free it up. Most of the time you don't need a fan at all, & controlled properly, the E-fan will stay off most of the time. The real win comes from removing the weight and drag from the stock fan. There is a valid argument; that the E-fan increases the maintenance frequency, and cost. The stock clutch fan might need replaced once or twice in the lifetime of the truck, & overall it is bullet proof. There is also the alternator upgrade, most of the stock ones are less than adequate for the increased draw of an E-fan, so unless you've already bumped to at least 130amp, include that in the cost.
05-07-2018, 08:53 PM
#14
The Control module wiring is not too difficult, and you only need one because it controls two fans on separate circuits with separate relays. The link I posted earlier was for a single fan, but this one is for dual fans: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...SABEgJw3_D_BwE
I used this fan kit https://ffdynamics.com/products/f15028 but I had repeated problems with their controller that's why I replaced it with the Hayden. But the fans work good and you can buy them separately
The instructions on the controller should tell you how to wire it up, but on my truck the black/yellow wire from the A/C compressor plug wired in to the green wire on the A/C circuit of the controller.
Also, I used this fitting in the upper radiator hose https://www.ebay.com/itm/44mm-or-1-3...72.m2749.l2649 and a screw in temperature sensor (can't find the link!).
I'm sure you can find a controller that comes with a threaded temp sensor unless you're comfortable using the probe through the radiator.
If you take a look at my album, you'll see some pics of the set-up I did, but feel free to ask for any help!
I used this fan kit https://ffdynamics.com/products/f15028 but I had repeated problems with their controller that's why I replaced it with the Hayden. But the fans work good and you can buy them separately
The instructions on the controller should tell you how to wire it up, but on my truck the black/yellow wire from the A/C compressor plug wired in to the green wire on the A/C circuit of the controller.
Also, I used this fitting in the upper radiator hose https://www.ebay.com/itm/44mm-or-1-3...72.m2749.l2649 and a screw in temperature sensor (can't find the link!).
I'm sure you can find a controller that comes with a threaded temp sensor unless you're comfortable using the probe through the radiator.
If you take a look at my album, you'll see some pics of the set-up I did, but feel free to ask for any help!
Thanks!
05-07-2018, 11:29 PM
#16
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And 15lbs of rotating mass gives you that much more momentum to send down to the tires. It's like the flywheel - it HELPS keep the engine spinning, which propels the truck.Me either. So this discussion forum will always have some activity. How many threads can you find here that end with everyone saying "I'm glad we all agree - that topic has now been put to bed forever!"? Why should the topic of e-fans be different? But that doesn't mean we can't keep discussing it...
05-08-2018, 11:54 AM
#17
Senior Member
Before I show off my ignorance in physics again, my first question would be this - does the output of the alternator correlate with the level of drag on the belt by the pulley? In other words, if the alternator is working harder, is it putting more drag on the belt and thus the engine?
It would seem to me that it would be more likely that an alternator is capable of putting out so much amperage at a given pulley rpm, and that the regulator reads the system voltage and dumps whatever excess that is not needed as heat energy. If that is the case, then it would argue in favor of the e-fan (for certain driving styles, not all), except for those speeds in which the clutch fan is actually providing a slight increase in torque.
(Takes cover in a bunker)
It would seem to me that it would be more likely that an alternator is capable of putting out so much amperage at a given pulley rpm, and that the regulator reads the system voltage and dumps whatever excess that is not needed as heat energy. If that is the case, then it would argue in favor of the e-fan (for certain driving styles, not all), except for those speeds in which the clutch fan is actually providing a slight increase in torque.
(Takes cover in a bunker)
05-08-2018, 11:56 AM
#18
Senior Member
There is no drag - the fan catches the air passing through the radiator, and spins itself, even if the engine is OFF. So the mechanical fan is actually putting a TINY bit of torque back INTO the belt when it's not needed - an e-fan can't do that.
And 15lbs of rotating mass gives you that much more momentum to send down to the tires. It's like the flywheel - it HELPS keep the engine spinning, which propels the truck.Me either.
And 15lbs of rotating mass gives you that much more momentum to send down to the tires. It's like the flywheel - it HELPS keep the engine spinning, which propels the truck.Me either.
The flywheel effect is very minimal in the range used for cruising flat & level, Sprint cars don't use flywheels at all, since they never idle, or run at low RPMs, it all just parasitic drag to them. Lightening the flywheel has been a hot rodding staple since the get go, though in a heavy truck it is of questionable value. Still another 15lbs on the accessory rotational mass is more harm than good, you'd never miss it on drive-ability, but it would absorb power that could go to the rear wheels.
05-08-2018, 09:03 PM
#19
Senior Member
I really only have experience with those I linked to, sorry! But since this is a critical system, I would stick with the best quality parts you can because you don't want to have the e-fan go out on you when you really need it! I'd stick with a good name brand controller at the very least, like Hayden, Derale or similar. Maybe someone else could suggest a good option for a JY fan.
05-08-2018, 09:08 PM
#20
Senior Member
Before I show off my ignorance in physics again, my first question would be this - does the output of the alternator correlate with the level of drag on the belt by the pulley? In other words, if the alternator is working harder, is it putting more drag on the belt and thus the engine?
It would seem to me that it would be more likely that an alternator is capable of putting out so much amperage at a given pulley rpm, and that the regulator reads the system voltage and dumps whatever excess that is not needed as heat energy. If that is the case, then it would argue in favor of the e-fan (for certain driving styles, not all), except for those speeds in which the clutch fan is actually providing a slight increase in torque.
(Takes cover in a bunker)
It would seem to me that it would be more likely that an alternator is capable of putting out so much amperage at a given pulley rpm, and that the regulator reads the system voltage and dumps whatever excess that is not needed as heat energy. If that is the case, then it would argue in favor of the e-fan (for certain driving styles, not all), except for those speeds in which the clutch fan is actually providing a slight increase in torque.
(Takes cover in a bunker)
But that's just a guess...
