Electric Fan question...
#11
Salvage Yard Pro
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
This fan! Sorry....been away from the computer all day. These fit our rads almost perfectly.
http://www.1aauto.com/radiator-cooli...yUAaAjuz8P8HAQ
http://www.1aauto.com/radiator-cooli...yUAaAjuz8P8HAQ
#14
Salvage Yard Pro
PHEW! Lol I found an older, we'll written, post you wrote a while back and bought that assembly and the $18 thermostatic control from advance! Should be here today I hope, I'm pumped! I'm not too experienced with wiring when it comes to that but I've done sound systems and ceiling fans.... same thing... right? Lmfao
Single hi or low
Dual hi or low
One on high and one on low.
I ran dual high speed with no ac. I used a 40a relay for each fan switched by the controller. With this setup, the controller is carrying virtually no load and if one relay fails or one fan burns up, you can drive on the single fan even on low speed until you can make repairs for the cost of a foot of wire and a $5 relay. Failsafe!
Last edited by unit505; 03-20-2015 at 09:46 PM.
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
If your experienced with relays, you can handle the fan controller. Just remember to buy some rolled metal bracket or some bracket stock. Mounting the fans is purely creative, much like your stereo/amp experiences. I know the controller has a built in relay, but I wanted max life out of mine and use it just for a relay trigger. There are multiple fan speed configurations. I don't have AC so my fans are wired for dual high speed. With AC, you'll most like want to run one fan on low with the ac switch as a trigger and the fan controller running the other fan with the controller temp sensor or dual fans as high with the controller temp sensor. From memory, your fan options should be
Single hi or low
Dual hi or low
One on high and one on low.
I ran dual high speed with no ac. I used a 40a relay for each fan switched by the controller. With this setup, the controller is carrying virtually no load and if one relay fails or one fan burns up, you can drive on the single fan even on low speed until you can make repairs for the cost of a foot of wire and a $5 relay. Failsafe!
Single hi or low
Dual hi or low
One on high and one on low.
I ran dual high speed with no ac. I used a 40a relay for each fan switched by the controller. With this setup, the controller is carrying virtually no load and if one relay fails or one fan burns up, you can drive on the single fan even on low speed until you can make repairs for the cost of a foot of wire and a $5 relay. Failsafe!
Okay I'm looking at the controller, I don't have the fans yet, I have no clue how this is going to be wired up, on the controller box it has instruction for a switch and ignition switch or some **** like that and It didn't come with a switch and I didn't know I'd have to mess with anything ignition... I know this sounds novice of me but I've never screwed with this type of thing... I'm gonna find that old thread again and look at those pictures but it's gonna take some figuring out... you say relays and I'm like what? Yet I've probably made them before... idk... sorry to be a pain
#16
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
any red/lt green wire is on at ignition. doesn't matter where you tap into it at, every red with light green stripe in the engine bay is on at ignition only.
the switch it refers to: you can instal a manual switch or you can hook it up to get a signal when the ac gets turned on.
your going to need 2 relays (30/40amp), pretty much any relay you pull from any car is going to be 30/40amp because that is what 99% use. You will also need an inline fuse for each relay, you can get a couple with 8ga wire on ebay for $5. You'll want a 30 amp fuse.
wiring the relays is simple:
Relay one:
87>High Speed
30>fuse>Battery
85>AC (or manual switch)
86>Ground
Relay Two:
87>Low Speed
30>fuse>Battery
85>Controller (temp sensor)
86>Ground
if it's the same controller I got then this is what you need if not then disregard this:
Temp Sensor/Controller:
2>Red/Lt Green wire (any wire that's Red/Lt Green works) i used one @ ICM
C>Terminal 85 Relay #2
the switch it refers to: you can instal a manual switch or you can hook it up to get a signal when the ac gets turned on.
your going to need 2 relays (30/40amp), pretty much any relay you pull from any car is going to be 30/40amp because that is what 99% use. You will also need an inline fuse for each relay, you can get a couple with 8ga wire on ebay for $5. You'll want a 30 amp fuse.
wiring the relays is simple:
Relay one:
87>High Speed
30>fuse>Battery
85>AC (or manual switch)
86>Ground
Relay Two:
87>Low Speed
30>fuse>Battery
85>Controller (temp sensor)
86>Ground
if it's the same controller I got then this is what you need if not then disregard this:
Temp Sensor/Controller:
2>Red/Lt Green wire (any wire that's Red/Lt Green works) i used one @ ICM
C>Terminal 85 Relay #2
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
any red/lt green wire is on at ignition. doesn't matter where you tap into it at, every red with light green stripe in the engine bay is on at ignition only.
the switch it refers to: you can instal a manual switch or you can hook it up to get a signal when the ac gets turned on.
your going to need 2 relays (30/40amp), pretty much any relay you pull from any car is going to be 30/40amp because that is what 99% use. You will also need an inline fuse for each relay, you can get a couple with 8ga wire on ebay for $5. You'll want a 30 amp fuse.
wiring the relays is simple:
Relay one:
87>High Speed
30>fuse>Battery
85>AC (or manual switch)
86>Ground
Relay Two:
87>Low Speed
30>fuse>Battery
85>Controller (temp sensor)
86>Ground
if it's the same controller I got then this is what you need if not then disregard this:
Temp Sensor/Controller:
2>Red/Lt Green wire (any wire that's Red/Lt Green works) i used one @ ICM
C>Terminal 85 Relay #2
the switch it refers to: you can instal a manual switch or you can hook it up to get a signal when the ac gets turned on.
your going to need 2 relays (30/40amp), pretty much any relay you pull from any car is going to be 30/40amp because that is what 99% use. You will also need an inline fuse for each relay, you can get a couple with 8ga wire on ebay for $5. You'll want a 30 amp fuse.
wiring the relays is simple:
Relay one:
87>High Speed
30>fuse>Battery
85>AC (or manual switch)
86>Ground
Relay Two:
87>Low Speed
30>fuse>Battery
85>Controller (temp sensor)
86>Ground
if it's the same controller I got then this is what you need if not then disregard this:
Temp Sensor/Controller:
2>Red/Lt Green wire (any wire that's Red/Lt Green works) i used one @ ICM
C>Terminal 85 Relay #2
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
By Request............Got my MOPAR twin fans installed today. Lovin them so far. Lot's of testing done, lot's left to do. You can feel the gained power of running without the HD Fan that was on there. I made a trip to Wal-Mart for some heat beating chocolate chip ice cream a little while ago. Cranked the truck up, drove 5 miles, went and did my shopping and drove the 5 miles home without the fan ever kicking in. Sure beats the loud HD fan pulling power from the engine. Watching the under hood temps, I wouldn't be surprised if I'm able to make my early morning 42 mile drive without the fan ever coming on. Should really help with MPG's. I never realized that the radiator stayed cool enough to keep itself below 180* with just the air going into the grill. 92* for the high today and at anywhere over 40mph, the radiator stayed cool enough that the fans don't come on. Anyway, here's a copy and paste from another post earlier today.
I can PM you, but the info might help others. The fan fits a bunch of chrysler's from 98-04. 300's, Dynasty's, Concord, intrepid, LHS.
Here's the diagram that I used for the relays.
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...d505/relay.jpg
There is a 20amp Maxi Fuse towards the engine side of the under hood fuse box that is only hot with the ignition on. I used this to trigger the fan controller. I then used the fan trigger on the controller and ran two wires from it to terminal 85 on each relay. Terminal 86 on each relay gets grounded to the chassis. Terminal 30 on each relay goes direct to the battery. Terminal 87 on each relay goes to one of the fan hotwires. The two black ground wires on the fans get grounded to the chassis as well. Terminal 87a (Center) does not get used on either relay. Both of my fans kick in at the same time. I'd have to buy a dual temp controller or two separate controllers set at different temps. The chrysler fans don't pull a ton of juice. I drop about 1 volt at startup and it levels off about one half volt after a couple seconds. Let me know if you need any more guidance. Hope this helps.
I can PM you, but the info might help others. The fan fits a bunch of chrysler's from 98-04. 300's, Dynasty's, Concord, intrepid, LHS.
Here's the diagram that I used for the relays.
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...d505/relay.jpg
There is a 20amp Maxi Fuse towards the engine side of the under hood fuse box that is only hot with the ignition on. I used this to trigger the fan controller. I then used the fan trigger on the controller and ran two wires from it to terminal 85 on each relay. Terminal 86 on each relay gets grounded to the chassis. Terminal 30 on each relay goes direct to the battery. Terminal 87 on each relay goes to one of the fan hotwires. The two black ground wires on the fans get grounded to the chassis as well. Terminal 87a (Center) does not get used on either relay. Both of my fans kick in at the same time. I'd have to buy a dual temp controller or two separate controllers set at different temps. The chrysler fans don't pull a ton of juice. I drop about 1 volt at startup and it levels off about one half volt after a couple seconds. Let me know if you need any more guidance. Hope this helps.
Okay this is making sense now...
Last edited by Tmadd1018; 03-21-2015 at 12:15 AM. Reason: Forgot reference