ymeski56

I believe there is a one way external check valve before the resevoir on my 87'. The reservoir itself should allow flow. You could temporality bypass the reservoir I suppose.

ymeski56

Correction: Got my lazy *** up & checked mine. There is an internal check valve allowing flow one direction only. Suggest you might have your in & out Vac hoses switched which would stop flow "at" the reservoir.

If your reservoir allows flow in either one way, then it's functioning properly & your hoses are not connected correctly.

5Rangers

X2 cannister only allows flow in one direction...

LobstahClaw

After spending hours scouring the net in a search for a replacement can i finally gave up ordered in something similar. I guess the "juice cans" are an obsolete part and are no longer available.

I fiberglassed mine this AM and it seems to be holding a vacuum allright now.

One nice thing about searching for the part # on it was that i noticed that one of the connections was labeled "man" & the other "amp".

As it turned out ... the vacuum hose setup on the motor they recently swapped into the truck was a little different than the original.

Long story short ... the two lines were reversed.

Re-plumbed it according to the vacuum diagram on the hood and took the truck on a test drive. I'm still getting a CEL after the motor warms up but it's running quite a bit better. Floored it going up hill and it took off like a scalded cat !

Time will tell .....

I'm going to wait to do anything more with it till the replacement vacuum reservoir comes in but once i know i've got a fallback i'm going to see if i can fully restore the original can.

The can itself looks to be almost identical to a 1qt dole pineapple juice can. I bet you could carefully harvest the plastic check valve assembly and transplant it into a new can.

ymeski56

U no give Year & Engine, so can't help regarding regarding CEL...Also if you started your own Thread, it would be less confusing. Personally I won't advise on a post piggybacked on someone else's Thread. Start your own thread & I'll be there.

LobstahClaw

I can understand what you're saying about the piggyback but as the thread started out we were both working on essentially the same problem at the same time.
He was chasing it as an electrical problem while my intuition was telling me to chase my truck problem as a vacuum issue. Just reporting my results for no other reason than that it might be a help to someone else in a similar situation.
================
I'm running a 94 F-150 4wd with a 351 windsor. The motor was recently replaced with another 351 of unknown origin. Long story ... but the whole thing was a massive screw up and i've spent the last month sorting out the mess that they left behind.
The general consensus in this area is that many of our CELs are related to the fuel vapor recovery system. On some GM products it can be something as simple as replacing the gas cap & disconnecting the battery to clear the code.
That won't be the case with my old Ford. I know for a fact that the vapor recovery tube that runs from the mid-ship tank to the charcoal canister is rusted out. I'm gonna pull the bed and check everything out from above over the next day or two. CEL or not that's got to be done because the first time i filled her up fuel ran out of the top of the tank and spilled all over the ground. When i switch over to the rear tank it reads full but the motor stops.
I'll have a better idea of the overall in a day or two. I would like to run her for the next five years or so as my daily driver if i can get her sorted out. I'll probably end up replacing both tanks, sender units, fuel pumps, straps, vent lines etc. That way everything will be in good shape for the long haul and it won't be a hassle next time she comes up for an inspection sticker.
But ... this isn't about me. If i run up against something that i just can't resolve on my own i'll start a thread and see if one of the more experienced folks can point me in the right direction.

ymeski56

The OP has no CEL issue. Suit yourself. Just a suggestion based on experience. Mixing similar but different symptoms & year/ engines doesn't work well i the same Thread.

JohnPaul

Got the vacuum reservoir out sitting on the bench. Attached the hand held pump to the nipple marked "AMP". That's the nipple that gets vacuum from the tree on the intake. The other nipple marked "MAN", it feeds the EVR and other solenoids, was left open, not plugged.

I applied 20" of vacuum with the pump. It held the vacuum and did not leak down. It SHOULD NOT have held vacuum because the "MAN" nipple (the one feeding the solenoids) was open, NOT plugged.

With the reservoir still holding vacuum I carefully stuck a small probe in the open nipple. It then leaked right down.

I then applied vacuum to the reservoir with the "MAN" nipple open, not plugged. It did not hold vacuum. I could hear it drawing vacuum through the "MAN" nipple, like it should.

Maybe just a piece of crud blocking the nipple the supplies vacuum to the EVR and the other solenoids. Maybe I got lucky and knocked it loose and the reservoir will behave. Going to put the vacuum reservoir back in right now, go for a spin and see what happens.

I'll get back to y'all with the results.

JohnPaul

Put it back together. Started it and the first thing I checked is if I had feed vacuum at the EVR. Had full vacuum (about 20"), great! Took it for a ride. It ran rough and had CEL on and off.

Took codes

KOEO: 558 EVR circuit failure
Cont.: 332 EGR opening not detected
KOER: 332

Then I checked to see if I lost vacuum feed to the EVR. Still had feed vacuum. WTF!! A few more miles....

Took codes again

KOEO: 558
Cont.: 512 (??) KAM is back!
KOER: 332

According to OldFuelInjection.com the EEC (computer) sends a ground signal to the EVR to open it and send vacuum to the EGR to open it at the right time.

To test the EVR it must first have feed vacuum (it does), then you ground it out through the backside of the electrical connection with a jump wire. If the EVR is working the act of grounding it out with the jump wire will send vacuum to the EGR, opening it and slowing the idle. If left grounded the engine will stall.

I did that and it did slow, then stall. So it looks like the EEC is NOT sending a ground signal to the EVR. And if it is sending the ground signal, it must be interrupted (broken wire?). I wonder if I could do a continuity test on the ground wire at the EVR to where it connects to the EEC. If I have continuity does that mean that the EEC is bad? I guess that code 558- EVR circuit failure means just that.

Now the code 512-KAM test failure, gone for awhile now back, maybe has something to do with it.

All this is driving me nuts! New OEM parts, good vacuum, rabbits foot on my keychain, still not cooperating.

ymeski56

I agree.