EGR and tps failures-is it driveable?
11-13-2018, 04:14 PM
#22
Martin
The scan tool flashing the 8 means it has detected an 8 cylinder system, pretty straightforward. OBD1 vs OBD2 is very different. An OBD1 system will store codes in memory but the fault condition must present itself each time the vehicle is driven to set off the engine light. Always work on the first code that appears, many times fixing that problem fixes the secondary codes as well.
Regarding the EGR problem. With new parts like in your case the problem has to be a vacuum leak. It doesn't take much of a vacuum drop for the EGR to not function properly, the drop in vacuum doesn't have to be in the lines controlling the EGR it can be anywhere in the system. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive vacuum gauge that is a good diagnostic tool.
Regarding the EGR problem. With new parts like in your case the problem has to be a vacuum leak. It doesn't take much of a vacuum drop for the EGR to not function properly, the drop in vacuum doesn't have to be in the lines controlling the EGR it can be anywhere in the system. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive vacuum gauge that is a good diagnostic tool.
11-13-2018, 04:22 PM
#23
The scan tool flashing the 8 means it has detected an 8 cylinder system, pretty straightforward. OBD1 vs OBD2 is very different. An OBD1 system will store codes in memory but the fault condition must present itself each time the vehicle is driven to set off the engine light. Always work on the first code that appears, many times fixing that problem fixes the secondary codes as well.
Regarding the EGR problem. With new parts like in your case the problem has to be a vacuum leak. It doesn't take much of a vacuum drop for the EGR to not function properly, the drop in vacuum doesn't have to be in the lines controlling the EGR it can be anywhere in the system. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive vacuum gauge that is a good diagnostic tool.
Regarding the EGR problem. With new parts like in your case the problem has to be a vacuum leak. It doesn't take much of a vacuum drop for the EGR to not function properly, the drop in vacuum doesn't have to be in the lines controlling the EGR it can be anywhere in the system. Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive vacuum gauge that is a good diagnostic tool.
11-13-2018, 09:17 PM
#25
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Or something WAS not working, and you haven't cleared the DTCs since fixing it.You can't detect the subtle problems that the EEC can via its sensors. Just because you don't notice the problem, that doesn't mean there IS no problem.
The EEC doesn't "communicate with" the sensors - it USES them; it RELIES on them so it can control the engine properly. For every action it commands, it watches at least one (but usually several) of the sensors to know IF that action took place, and correctly.Wires don't "go to" the EEC; they connect the EEC to the sensors, actuators, & vehicle power and ground. And a bad wire would be a problem - a fault that would prevent the EEC from accomplishing what it needs to; i.e., manage the engine properly. That would set at least one DTC, and you should repair it ASAP.No. The EEC "communicates" with the scan tool (in a very basic & brief way). If the scan tool displays faults that aren't actually stored in the EEC, that would be a communication error (and most scan tools DO that with these old EEC-IVs, which is why you should never use one - just the jumper wire).What exactly happens when you click on the thumbnails? Have you clicked on the text links below each thumbnail? Are you using a real computer and a real browser (like IE, Chrome, or Firefox)? Or are you using a phone/tablet & an app (like CrapaTalk)?Not on these trucks. The change was essentially a new connector on the same old EEC, with a little change in its programming, and a couple of new circuits just to squeeze by the law until the big redesign the following year.
That's not at all correct. You should spend some time reading that caption, too. It's from the Ford service manuals (among other sources).
There are no "secondary" codes - the EEC doesn't organize them that way. There are KOEO codes, KOER codes, and continuous memory (CM) codes. Within each group, there is no published hierarchy or priority of which DTC will be output first.What's the brand & model? Post a link to the manufacturer's website, or the online version of the manual.
But you should still get rid of it. It's not helping you.
But you should still get rid of it. It's not helping you.
11-13-2018, 10:24 PM
#26
Senior Member
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i figured it out steve. it used to pull of the diagrams and captions to about the size of a dice. then i clicked on one of the wala go and it took be to the site it was originally on. were good
What exactly happens when you click on the thumbnails?
i figured it out steve. it used to pull of the diagrams and captions to about the size of a dice. then i clicked on one of the wala go and it took be to the site it was originally on. were good
Last edited by DarrinT04; 11-13-2018 at 10:27 PM. Reason: i
11-14-2018, 12:24 AM
#27
Martin
I did forget to mention a way to test if the EGR problem is cracked/dry lines or vacuum canister or a bigger vacuum leak like the intake manifold. Run new vacuum hose from intake tree to EGR controller then from the controller to the EGR. If this clears the EGR code the leak would be in the lines that feed it, if not overall vacuum is low.
11-14-2018, 11:02 AM
#28
I did forget to mention a way to test if the EGR problem is cracked/dry lines or vacuum canister or a bigger vacuum leak like the intake manifold. Run new vacuum hose from intake tree to EGR controller then from the controller to the EGR. If this clears the EGR code the leak would be in the lines that feed it, if not overall vacuum is low.
01-06-2019, 03:17 PM
#29
OK,. I finally got around to replacing my vacuum lines and I still received the " 332 EGR valve opening not detected " code. I am not sure how to test the vacuum for the
EGR system. I have a vacuum pump now, I just don't know where to hook it up and what to do. I figure this is the next step in figuring out why I keep getting the code, and why
my truck won't pass a smog test. I checked the valve on the coffee can, and it allows me to suck but not blow into the line, so I assume the check valve in the coffee can is good. It
also holds vacuum so it is not leaking. That is the only item I have eliminated as being at fault. Also I have replaced the EGR valve. How do I check that the EGR is getting enough vacuum to open the valve correctly?
Thanks
EGR system. I have a vacuum pump now, I just don't know where to hook it up and what to do. I figure this is the next step in figuring out why I keep getting the code, and why
my truck won't pass a smog test. I checked the valve on the coffee can, and it allows me to suck but not blow into the line, so I assume the check valve in the coffee can is good. It
also holds vacuum so it is not leaking. That is the only item I have eliminated as being at fault. Also I have replaced the EGR valve. How do I check that the EGR is getting enough vacuum to open the valve correctly?
Thanks
01-09-2019, 11:19 PM
#30
Fixed????
Ok, so while I went to test the EGR with a vacuum pump to see if I could hear it open, it took a lot of vacuum to get it to open, then I heard it click. The second time it opened easier. I took it for a drive an no more check engine light. It did come on for one second and shut off again long into the drive. Much longer than it would take for it to normally come on. I will see if it threw any codes. If not, im off to see if it will pass the smog test..... after all this, hopefully it was just a faulty, new EGR valve.