EGR delete
03-27-2013, 12:21 AM
#11
Senior Member
This is a good how-to on the smog removal - written with the mustang in mind, but it's still a 5.0 and the smog system is pretty much the same.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com//techarticles/Smog2.pdf
http://www.allfordmustangs.com//techarticles/Smog2.pdf
03-27-2013, 07:18 AM
#15
Senior Member
Not particularly, I suppose a little less drag on the motor, but its really not all that noticeable, like I said I only did it because I have no cats and my pumps pulley was bent and squeeking so it was throwing the belt
03-27-2013, 07:43 AM
#16
Hi-Rev Motorsports
03-27-2013, 03:51 PM
#17
Senior Member
Well it does create more smog and greater chance of build up in the exhaust. Do a few searches I've gone into the egr and secondary air system in depth a few times. I'm currently studying for my inspectors/repair license.
05-15-2017, 09:06 PM
#18
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You'll have more issues than the EGR with that scenario. There is also an O2 sensor and the thermactor (smog pump) outlet to deal with.
The smog pump won't light the CEL, but you will get codes for the solenoids. It can be replaced with a smog delete kit (usually sold for mustangs), or you can run a shorter belt. The only real benefits of removal are slightly less load on the motor, you shed some weight, and it's less crap in the engine bay.
The EGR and O2 are a bit tougher to deal with, and will light your CEL. More important, their absence will screw up your air/fuel mixture and cause all sorts of issues.
An aftermarket computer is an expensive option that will work, the $20 eBay kits are a cheap option that don't work, or a decent muffler shop can weld in bungs for those connections and keep things legit.
The smog pump won't light the CEL, but you will get codes for the solenoids. It can be replaced with a smog delete kit (usually sold for mustangs), or you can run a shorter belt. The only real benefits of removal are slightly less load on the motor, you shed some weight, and it's less crap in the engine bay.
The EGR and O2 are a bit tougher to deal with, and will light your CEL. More important, their absence will screw up your air/fuel mixture and cause all sorts of issues.
An aftermarket computer is an expensive option that will work, the $20 eBay kits are a cheap option that don't work, or a decent muffler shop can weld in bungs for those connections and keep things legit.
02-16-2018, 01:33 PM
#19
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98 F150 5.4 triton 4x4. I could use some advice. Yesterday my EGR pipe broke off from rust right at the manifold. THis tuck only has 68k on it but it seen some salt but it was Ziebarted so its still beautiful except the manifolds. THey are about shot and the bolts are really rusty and I know somebody who takes the whole engine out and puts on new manifolds but I have to go 1200 miles. THere's a muffler shop there too. My plan was to plug the hole in the
manifold and plug the vacum holw for the EGR and drive it home that way. BTW I cant get the EGR valve off either the bolts wont budge even after soaking. RIght now I have the injectors out because they needed cleaning, thats how I broke the EGR pipe but it was about to go anyway. My plan is to take care of alll of this once I get it back home. It was running lean becase of dirty injectors. I dont mind it running rich for awhile with an EGR that doesnt work. My other option is to have it towed to someplace that will take the engine out and put on new manifolds and exhaust at the same time. But that's going to cost alot more than if I go home and do it.
manifold and plug the vacum holw for the EGR and drive it home that way. BTW I cant get the EGR valve off either the bolts wont budge even after soaking. RIght now I have the injectors out because they needed cleaning, thats how I broke the EGR pipe but it was about to go anyway. My plan is to take care of alll of this once I get it back home. It was running lean becase of dirty injectors. I dont mind it running rich for awhile with an EGR that doesnt work. My other option is to have it towed to someplace that will take the engine out and put on new manifolds and exhaust at the same time. But that's going to cost alot more than if I go home and do it.
02-18-2018, 10:31 AM
#20
Member
98 F150 5.4 triton 4x4. I could use some advice. Yesterday my EGR pipe broke off from rust right at the manifold. THis tuck only has 68k on it but it seen some salt but it was Ziebarted so its still beautiful except the manifolds. THey are about shot and the bolts are really rusty and I know somebody who takes the whole engine out and puts on new manifolds but I have to go 1200 miles. THere's a muffler shop there too. My plan was to plug the hole in the
manifold and plug the vacum holw for the EGR and drive it home that way. BTW I cant get the EGR valve off either the bolts wont budge even after soaking. RIght now I have the injectors out because they needed cleaning, thats how I broke the EGR pipe but it was about to go anyway. My plan is to take care of alll of this once I get it back home. It was running lean becase of dirty injectors. I dont mind it running rich for awhile with an EGR that doesnt work. My other option is to have it towed to someplace that will take the engine out and put on new manifolds and exhaust at the same time. But that's going to cost alot more than if I go home and do it.
manifold and plug the vacum holw for the EGR and drive it home that way. BTW I cant get the EGR valve off either the bolts wont budge even after soaking. RIght now I have the injectors out because they needed cleaning, thats how I broke the EGR pipe but it was about to go anyway. My plan is to take care of alll of this once I get it back home. It was running lean becase of dirty injectors. I dont mind it running rich for awhile with an EGR that doesnt work. My other option is to have it towed to someplace that will take the engine out and put on new manifolds and exhaust at the same time. But that's going to cost alot more than if I go home and do it.