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Door lock not working

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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 08:59 PM
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Default Door lock not working

I bought my 1990 f150 302 a little while ago, and i decided to change out my locks because the previous owner had no key to lock the doors and the price for new ones are cheap. I noticed that before i took off my right door panel its lock was stuck, it doesn't go up or down. I have done some research around here but i haven't found a clear answer. I read a few pages saying that the lock actuator is probably broken. This could be my situation as well. However, i must mention that i dont know what is wrong with my power lock and windows. There is no fuse in the labeled section for power locks. i believe it says 30 amp c.b. i found a couple in my glove box left from previous owner. But when i tried them there was still no response from lock or window. Maybe dead. My driver side door was replaced at some point in the past, it has manual lock and window. the passenger side has power lock and window buttons. So my question is should i fix my actuator and see if the wiring works for the passenger door, or should i swap to manual? If i should switch to a manual lock Please tell me how i could do that.
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 12:01 PM
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The PW/PM wiring begins in the driver's door, so neither will work if the driver's door wiring has been deleted. Study this diagram:

(phone app link)


The PL switches are in series, so one will not work without the other, unless the circuit is modified to do so. You could potentially make the passenger PL switch & motor work, but what would be the point if you still have to reach across the truck?

(phone app link)


This caption describes the problems with the old lock motor:

(phone app link)


If someone has worked on the door latch pushrods, it's possible for them to become tangled, so the sill button doesn't work. It's difficult to inspect without removing the rear window track inside the door, or using a mirror & flashlight. Yours is very similar to this:

(phone app link)
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve83
The PW/PM wiring begins in the driver's door, so neither will work if the driver's door wiring has been deleted. Study this diagram:

(phone app link)


The PL switches are in series, so one will not work without the other, unless the circuit is modified to do so. You could potentially make the passenger PL switch & motor work, but what would be the point if you still have to reach across the truck?

(phone app link)


This caption describes the problems with the old lock motor:

(phone app link)


If someone has worked on the door latch pushrods, it's possible for them to become tangled, so the sill button doesn't work. It's difficult to inspect without removing the rear window track inside the door, or using a mirror & flashlight. Yours is very similar to this:

(phone app link)
Thank you for the valuable information. I figured it probably wouldn't work without the driver side being intact. I think I want to change the passenger door to not use power and motor. Is that possible? Would I be able to make the lock not rely on the motor? I'm not really worried about the power window at moment, I'm more concerned about locking my truck.
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Old Aug 18, 2020 | 02:14 AM
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Just reach inside & unhook the lock motor's operating rod from the latch. The plastic retainer works like these:

(phone app link)


That only works for rods with an L-bend. If it has a Z-bend, something has to be detached from the door to disengage the rod.
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Old Aug 18, 2020 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve83
Just reach inside & unhook the lock motor's operating rod from the latch. The plastic retainer works like these:

(phone app link)


That only works for rods with an L-bend. If it has a Z-bend, something has to be detached from the door to disengage the rod.
Mine looks to have a z bend
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Old Aug 18, 2020 | 06:12 PM
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Then you can push or pry the lock motor out of its bracket; or drill out the rivet holding that bracket to the door (my preferred method).

(phone app link)
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Old Aug 19, 2020 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve83
Then you can push or pry the lock motor out of its bracket; or drill out the rivet holding that bracket to the door (my preferred method).

(phone app link)
Thank you for the help. Its better now. I plan on just converting everything back to power to keep it original to the model at some point. With the driver side being manual I'll have to buy a panel to fit it, and the wiring harness. Probably the wiring under the dash too right? I doubt it is intact.
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Old Aug 19, 2020 | 06:24 PM
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You can't know until you look.
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