sibo191

To start:
1996 f150 5.0
2wd E4OD trans

Back story: sitting 4.5 years did initial stuff to start it up and ran fine for about 15-20 min. Then stalled. Week later will start with starting fluid and got it to run about a minute until it died again.
I drained old gas from both tanks and replaced fuel filter. Added new gas with barrymans added to it. And have another filter ready to go.
I was getting a very weak spark from the coil and changed the coil plugs and wires. Cleaned the contact's on the distributed cap/rotor.

I suspect I'm not getting fuel to the rail because the shrader valve is dry/ no fuel comes out when valve is pressed. I feel like my regulator may be bad But can't confirm that would cause a no start.

I ordered a fuel pressure tester and vac pump/tester online but it won't be here for a few weeks.

I'm planning to test the lines at each pump, just past the fuel filter and at the shrader valve. Will also vacuum test the regulator when the stuff arrives.

I'm getting power to both pumps and relay and fuse both check out.

So.... While I'm waiting is there anything else I should check on?

DarrinT04

I would pour a bottle of fuel injector cleaner down one of the gas tanks.

sibo191

Already did. A can of barrymans with 10 gallons new gas each tank.

Steve83

All the truck's details need to be in your signature as this caption explains:


(phone app link)Where is "here"??? Outer Mongolia? Put it in your profile so it shows under your username.How were you planning to test them, exactly? You shouldn't mess with them - there's not likely anything wrong with them that you can't see at a glance.That's not how it's tested. Click this & read the caption:


(phone app link)Can you hear them running?Everything. The coolant needs to be changed every ~2 years regardless of miles; the brake fluid lasts ~5; the battery terminals always need attention...


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A single can of Berryman's isn't likely to make a dent in a stale gas tank. These sat for a little longer than yours, but I'd still want to look inside before trying to drive on a tank that sat for 4.5 years:


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sibo191

Couldn't find a way to edit my Sig, so I put that info in first.

Where "here" is is irrelevant. Only thing that matters there is I'm waiting on some somewhat slow shopping so have time until I test anything.

As I already said. I drained down and added 10 gallons of new gas and a can to both tanks.

Yea I can hear the pumps running. According to the description on the kit I bought it has an adapter to plug into fuel lines. I plan to test both sides of filter to veify I'm even getting enough pressure from the pumps and the new filter didn't get blocked with trash from one of the tanks. Before moving on.

I saw several videos showing a vac test can be done on the regulator I think it ways also in the Hayes manual and write ups on other vehicles. If not possible to test the regulator I still have several leaks I do know of on the hvac side that I intend to Chase down as well as any others.

Battery terminals and all fluids except break have been changed and new battery installed. My point now is not drivabilty. Just getting it running consistently to compression test the engine properly and determine my next steps.

raski

The regulator is not going to be the cause of no fuel or fuel pressure. It is there to prevent the pressure from going too high. On a working fuel system with a gauge attached, the pressure will go up when you pull the vacuum line off. I am assuming you have verified power to the pumps, you either have pump(s) issues or some kind of obstruction from sitting so long.

Steve83

Click the "your signature" link in my first reply above.Maybe - if you're in Outer Mongolia. But if you're in North America, there's a chance that a user here is nearby, and could meet you to check out your truck. If he's not too put-off by your personality. That doesn't help us help you. We need to review those details each time we read your most-recent post. And we need to know a LOT MORE about it than what you've posted so far.As I already said: that's irrelevant. The stuff in the tanks that causes problems DOESN'T DRAIN. And it can take a LOT of solvent & even more gas to wash it all away.What brand/PN/source? Got a link to the instructions?Not necessary, or safe. Test fuel pressure at the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail - that's the only place pressure matters.Irrelevant. You can find videos showing anything CAN be done, but that's not how this truck works, or how its regulator is tested.It IS possible; and easy. But not the way you've imagined or seen. Read that caption.Irrelevant. New does not equal good. So until you describe exactly what you replaced each thing WITH (brand, PN, source), we have to consider that they're still potential causes for your symptoms.

We're trying to help you, but you have to cooperate.

sibo191

Correct. I do have power to the pumps verified by both hearing them both kick on and checked with volt meter. But yea. Waiting on shipping to verify the pressure is good enough.

Good to know that. I wasn't sure if a stuck diaphragm in the regulator or severely clogged screen in there would prevent fuel from getting to the rail.