Ok, got some stuff done on the truck this morning.

Added switched twelve volt to check engine light. No change.

Added resistor to charge light. No change, alt still holding at 11v.

Both lights still on.

Attempted to pull codes and for some reason I cannot pull them. There's no clicking from the engine compartment at all even after making sure the handheld was connected properly. The readout on the hand held is acting like there's no communication between it and the computer.

Tried both key on engine off and key on engine running. What the heck is going on here. I'm starting to regret I did this and I'm at a complete loss.

Please help.

Just a rundown of what's what.

LT Turn Signal - Green/White Double wire ( Works Properly )
RT Turn Signal - White/LT Blue Double Wire ( Works Properly )
Brake Light - Purple/White ( Works Properly )
High Beam - Grey/White ( Works Properly )
Volt Gauge - Switched 12V ( Reading Properly )
Fuel Gauge - Yellow/White ( Reading Properly )
Oil Gauge - Supplied Independent Harness ( Reading Properly )
Water Gauge - Supplied Independent Harness ( Reading Properly )

PROBLEM:

Check Engine Light - Pink/LT Green wire and Switched 12V ( Staying on with and without switched 12V )
Low Charge / Battery Light - Red/LT Green wire and Switched 12V ( Staying on with and without Added Resistor ) Alternator not charging.

I'm wondering if it makes a difference where the splices for the switched 12V and the Resistor is positioned that's making the issue for the charge light.

The resistor is positioned in line just off the Light. The Switched 12V is tied in further down the line so the resistor would only be making the difference for the light and not the rest. Wouldn't I have to tie the resistor in closer to the alt than the switched 12V tie in would be?

Also, would it make a difference that the lights are sharing a ground with the other lights? I have all the lights on one ground and all the gauges on another. Both supplied from the grounds on the factory gauge cluster harness.

Alright guys, the Alternator is charging.

Engine off at the battery is 12.77

Engine running is 14.08
Running with all accessories on is 13.04

Turns out I had the 12v and Low charge/ Low Battery wires going to the R/LG wire instead of the LG/R wire. Just had to stare at it for an hour to notice.
The light is still on though even with the resistor installed.

Now under light throttle while in park the Alternator is making a snapping noise??? It goes away at idle but everything above light throttle creates an electrical ark snapping noise that fluctuates with RPM.

Also figured out that my code reader is broke. The connectors pushed down inside the handheld when I plugged it in.

I'm almost at the point of just unhooking the Charge and Engine light and just check for codes at every oil change but I feal like that it would be half-assed and would never be able to get it out of my head?

I just can't get passed the lights. I keep thinking to myself " why wouldn't they be on. There's 12V being fed to them when the ignition is on with nothing to stop the current flowing to the light ".

That's correct. Just clipped the power running to the charge light and soldered in.
It's supposed to jump from positive to the negative?
@mmk

Thank you.