Cooling question, electric fan?
#1
Cooling question, electric fan?
I've got a 94 f150 4x4, with the 351, my fan clutch is bad and I overheated my truck in some mud the other day. I had completely forgotten about the fan clutch. I was going to replacing it, but I had another thought, electric fans are more efficient, not drawing any mechanical power from the engine and only turning when needed. My question is, has anyone done this before? I'm not a mechanic but I've done plenty of work to either this 351 or my last 302 f150. Any reasons this wouldn't work that y'all can think of? I thought it'd be interesting to do! Thanks for any input!
#4
It depends on how much amperage draw you've already got on the truck and how much the new fan(s) draw. Generally speaking, if you're talking about an otherwise stock truck and you're adding a high-efficiency fan, you're probably okay with what you've got since it is a 3G alternator.
#5
Salvage Yard Pro
If your running stereo amps, aftermarket lighting, etc. I've been using my salvage yard 3g for around a year now. I think I paid $13 for it if I remember right. Again, there's a whole other thread on that subject. You need to research it well. You have to know what mounting position you need, what you can and can't use, etc. Your '94 probably has the 3g wiring already. My '94 does, so no wiring changes are necessary. You need to verify that though.
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/3g-altenator-165829/
Some factory mounts require some grinding, most don't. Some mounts can be changed or swapped from another year or even from an E Series van. I found what fit my truck by going to the Orielly auto parts page and looking at their alternator list. The 3g 130amp was a factory option and I was able to identify the mounting ear locations from there. Went to the salvage yard and found one in a Lincoln Town Car. If you get a set of factory twin fans, such as the Taurus, Sable or in my case, Chrysler 300, they are very efficient and don't draw much juice.
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/3g-altenator-165829/
Some factory mounts require some grinding, most don't. Some mounts can be changed or swapped from another year or even from an E Series van. I found what fit my truck by going to the Orielly auto parts page and looking at their alternator list. The 3g 130amp was a factory option and I was able to identify the mounting ear locations from there. Went to the salvage yard and found one in a Lincoln Town Car. If you get a set of factory twin fans, such as the Taurus, Sable or in my case, Chrysler 300, they are very efficient and don't draw much juice.
Last edited by unit505; 04-29-2013 at 09:29 AM.
#6
Ok, I've been looking and I like the windstar fans, I'll get a controller too. Any views on the probes that stick through the fins on the top near the incoming water hose?
#7
Salvage Yard Pro
I use a controller from Advanced Auto that has a probe that sits right up against the fins, but doesn't stick through them. It has a small rubber piece that pushes through the fins and the probe mounts to that so there is no metal to metal contact. I've tested it next to a thermometer stuck in the radiator filler neck and it functions flawlessly and has for a year now. The only issue I've ever had was when I has a leaking t-stat housing gasket. The coolant level dropped below the probe and it did not get hot enough to activate the switch. Fixed the leak, added coolant to the proper levels, no more issues. You'll find that with the e-fans, you'll never see them run unless idling. I happened to be at the bank when i saw my temp gauge go up a little high. Checked the level and found the problem. You could go with an inline adapter for the probe, but as I said, the external probe has worked better than all of the critics said it would. Oh yeah, the controller kit from Advanced only ran $17. Can't go wrong with that.