coolant disappearing
07-21-2011, 03:01 AM
#11
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Cam. That sounds just like me. And sean, everytime im under the truck i check and grease everything. And i shake the driveshafts and wiggle them every way i can and they all seem fine. Idk what it is. Im thinking about fixing what i can and saving and biting the bullet and let a shop deal with the rear main. After that idk. Im just trying to get everything fixed so i can start upgrading.
not sure if you did this...but make sure the truck is suspended in the air when your looking for bad ujoint. if the truck is on the ground and there is a slight grade making it roll that last inch untill the tranny locks....this will put pressure (torque) on all the ujoints and it will be damn near impossible to find a bad one with 6,500 lbs resting on it...I only know...cause...well, i know from experience
07-21-2011, 05:55 AM
#13
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Check your bi-pass hose...I had a small pin hole in mine and was missing coolant....it would leak out and evap on the hot motor...nothing on the ground or motor. Its a bitch to get to...mite as well do the pump and thermo at the same time.
07-21-2011, 12:33 PM
#16
Senior Member
Originally Posted by 954x4
That im not. Just tired of working on crap. Pulled he bed the other day to replace fuel pumps, im pretty sure the rear main is bad. And every now and then i hear a clank from underneath, its rotational, so im thinking t case or tranny. And, my truck shifts into reverse horribly hard. Jerks me around quite a bit. And my power steering pump has started to whine a little louder than normal, and i just put fluid in. I feel like my truck is falling apart underneath me. Oh, and a coupke vacuum lines are rotten and broke, and im guessing the head cover breather(little tube that goes from air filter box to right next to oil fill cap) is rotten and flimsy. Any help with all of the above would be appreciated as well.
07-21-2011, 12:50 PM
#17
GIGGITY
Thread Starter
I paid 4000 for mine. It just had a few minor things wrog when i bought. Went through a huge electrical problem a month and a half later that was never resolved. But it works fine now.
07-21-2011, 03:33 PM
#18
Dodge+Ford = always ready
i payed 3500 for my truck 3 years ago, since then iv put 6000 into it, thats including a brand new transmission at 92k miles and a new bed after some idiot in a jeep backed into me. that also includes all the little annoying stuff like battery and lines that broke. trust me, i felt the same way about 3k into all the repairs but i stuck it out and came through it with a truck i can be proud of. i strongly believe if you love the the vehicle enough you can put however much you want into it. 6k is about as much as i want to put into mine lol.
07-21-2011, 06:46 PM
#19
Senior Member
Here's my .02 on everything........
You have a few choices here. 1) Drop the trans/pull the engine. 2) High Mileage Motor Oil, 3) Additive such as No Leak Engine Stop Leak or Lucas Synthetic Oil Treament. I'd try the oil or the additive first if it was me and didn't have the interest/resources currently to pull the component to replace the seal.
I think it's been suggested, try the U-Joints. Also, when was the last time you replaced the differential fluid/gear oil?
I would try Seafoam Transtune to clean it out and a good quality transmission fluid when you replace the fluid. My truck dislikes generic transmission fluid. It likes Maxlife ATF, however.
Try flushing it out with a decent brand of Type F ATF. I've also heard of these trucks no longer whining with synthetic ATF even though most aren't spec'd for Type F usage. My truck didn't like cheap generic Type F. It whined and whined.
Buy about 18 to 20 feet of rubber vacuum hose, some vacuum T's, some quality scissors to cut hoses and get down to business. Replace every single vacuum hose with rubber hose. On one or two components you'll have a combination of rubber hose and the existing vacuum lines. What I mean by this is that all of it will be rubber hose with the exception of the very end of the rubber hose where it connects. You'll slide the rubber hose over top of the vacuum hose. The components where you can do 100% rubber from end to end, do so.
Hit up a parts store for preformed heater hose. Take yours off and use the closest thing that matches yours. Or a junkyard/pull a parts yard.
You have a few choices here. 1) Drop the trans/pull the engine. 2) High Mileage Motor Oil, 3) Additive such as No Leak Engine Stop Leak or Lucas Synthetic Oil Treament. I'd try the oil or the additive first if it was me and didn't have the interest/resources currently to pull the component to replace the seal.
Buy about 18 to 20 feet of rubber vacuum hose, some vacuum T's, some quality scissors to cut hoses and get down to business. Replace every single vacuum hose with rubber hose. On one or two components you'll have a combination of rubber hose and the existing vacuum lines. What I mean by this is that all of it will be rubber hose with the exception of the very end of the rubber hose where it connects. You'll slide the rubber hose over top of the vacuum hose. The components where you can do 100% rubber from end to end, do so.
Hit up a parts store for preformed heater hose. Take yours off and use the closest thing that matches yours. Or a junkyard/pull a parts yard.