john1989

could the slave cylinder still be bad even with out any signs of leaking?
also i just remembered that i didnt have the cap of the master when i was bleeding it, so might have something to do with it. also the spring looks like its on there, is just loose and flopping around like there is a spacer or something missing.also when pulling the pedal all the way up, it doesnt move the push rod on the master any, the slop is in the pedal its self. ill take another look at the spring though to make sure its on rite. im starting to get scared , thinking the forks or throw out bearing is bad or something like that, hope its the master or something out side the trans!!
another thing i noticed is the truck is a stick, but has a dash from an automatic?!?!
think it originally came stick, the hole in the floor looks clean . also looked at the firewall, doesnt seem to move when hittng the clutch pedal

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

There's more pictures of the clutch pedal bracket in my album. Mine wore out the bushings which then wore out the bracket, causing some looseness in the pedal. I replaced the whole pedal and bracket assembly in my quest to get all the pedal slack removed. The part that the pushrod connects to on the pedal also could be loose, it's bolted on to the pedal shaft and has splines to keep it in place but if the splines aren't grabbing anymore then it could be moving.

john1989

fixed it. sort of.

that dang rubber thing inside the master, i dont see the purpose of them.
id fill a rubber cup with fluid, then under it , itd be empty, so its sucking air and then fluid. went through taking the master off, and then cleaned it up, and the rubber thing fell out., then realized i was filling it up. anyway, we bled it and i took for ever.

the truck was a automatic converted to a 4sp manual. the pedal has some play in it, has the worn out bushing deal, but it disengages.
for some reason the push rod on the slave dont come out all the way, grinds just a tiny tiny bit when shifting in to another gear, so what my friend is gonna do, is cut a small piece off the old push rod and weld it on to the new push rod on the slave that way the clutch will fully disengage.
if i was to fix the sagging pedal ,would that give the little bit extra length to fully disengage it, also when pressing the pedal, i think the fire wall or something sqeeks.

any way after a new head light ill be able to bring it home and then get the push rod extended. another thing im doing is gonna find a truck that has a pedal set up that aint worn out, i HATE the pedal sagging. the dash is coming out any way, got to redo the dash , whole interior ,thinking of a roll cage , rear cab floor needs a patch.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

I went through a lot of crap to get all my slack out. Fixing the bushings will help. I did the welding two pushrods together trick, but it isn't necessary. If you unbolt that part from the pedal rod and put it back on in a better position it will line up better. Also, my '87 has an adjustable pushrod which I used from my original TOD 4 speed tranny master. The 5 speeds don't have an adjustable one and I had to grind the end of it to make it fit into the master. I did a lot of welding to my firewall too, so if your buddy was willing to weld the pushrod then ask if he will weld the firewall instead. I pulled off the brake and clutch masters and the brake booster. Then I welded all around the metal plate that is on the firewall and welded the cracks. Another trick is to run self tapping screws through the plate but it only works temporary, they eventually loosen because the firewall still flexes. If you do any of these things try to push the firewall back in first.

john1989

got to bring it home today. 1st Gear SUCKS, geared real LOW.
driving through traffic today, makes me never wanna drive stick again!
i wanna put a automatic in it,stop and go traffic is testing my patience.
soon as you start to ease off the clutch, it takes off, wants to go,when leaving a red light, i think its taking more gas pedal to take off, when starting it up, its in gear, foot on the clutch pedal, start to turn the wheel to pull out and it dies, give it more gas, it bucks and takes off. clutch pedal disengages the clutch, its just when you let off a bit it takes off, or it dies. driving in traffic, musta killed it a million times. gotta let a car length ahead of me before i can go, soon as i let up on the clutch it lurches,and it feels like im giving it more gas then normal , if not itll die.
i know how to drive stick, this is my 8th manual vehicle, its been a year, but still. this truck just dont feel rite.first gear it screams and the truck bucks ( vibrates and lurches) when you leave a stop sign , you gotta leave in 2nd, but its too fast, 1st gear is way too low, youd be in first gear for like 5 feet, not even half way through the intersection you gotta shift to 2nd. maybe ive forgotten how to drive stick??

any way, i wanna put a automatic in, with a floor shifter.
i heard you gotta pull the motor to do this? would i be able to slide the manual trans back far enough to get the shaft to clear , and then just drop it ?
also wat after market floor shifters would work on this a auto trans for this?
would i be able to use the T case i have on another auto trans that is 2wd?

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

You've got the granny low 4 speed, that's how it drives. It might be better if the pedal didn't have so much slack. You can start in 2nd, it works better when not pulling a load. You don't have to pull the engine to pull the tranny, it will come out. You can't use a 2wd tranny in your 4wd, the tailshafts are different lengths. Depending on which auto you want to use, you would have to set up the downshift rod/cable or computer and wiring for an electronically controlled tranny. Those floor shifters are pretty universal so I would think you could make any one work.