clutch problem on 91 f150 4x4
11-25-2009, 01:44 AM
#11
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okay i replaced the slave cylinder, no luck. doesnt leak, but the pedal still sags, u can pull the pedal up at least 3 inches, and itll fall back down.
while driving you cant realy shift gears because the clutch wont disengage.while driving, you are in gear and rolling, if you hit the clutch pedal it doest not disengage , the truck is still moving, some times it will shift in to another gear, but it grinds, some times it dont. when i first drove it, it wouldnt shift in to nuetral , i had it in first , wouldnt move in to reverse, thats with the motor off, if i woulda started it , it woulda lurched forward and took off, even with the clutch pedal to the floor.
also up under the dash, the shaft that goes in to the rear of the clutch master cylinder, the shaft is going in at an angle. dont know if it has anything to do with it.
im gonna be hopefull, and buy a new master cylinder , and see if it works, the fire wall thing ill check in to it. just hope its not a bad clutch, but i thought with a bad clutch , it wouldnt drive at all. i also hope its not the trans either.
does any one have any pictures of what the shaft that goes in to the master cylinder under the fire wall looks like (wat a normal one looks like?)
also when you push the clutch pedal, the slave pushes out a rod that moves a "fork" that goes in to the trans, that only moves about an inch, is it not fully disengaging the clutch?
while driving you cant realy shift gears because the clutch wont disengage.while driving, you are in gear and rolling, if you hit the clutch pedal it doest not disengage , the truck is still moving, some times it will shift in to another gear, but it grinds, some times it dont. when i first drove it, it wouldnt shift in to nuetral , i had it in first , wouldnt move in to reverse, thats with the motor off, if i woulda started it , it woulda lurched forward and took off, even with the clutch pedal to the floor.
also up under the dash, the shaft that goes in to the rear of the clutch master cylinder, the shaft is going in at an angle. dont know if it has anything to do with it.
im gonna be hopefull, and buy a new master cylinder , and see if it works, the fire wall thing ill check in to it. just hope its not a bad clutch, but i thought with a bad clutch , it wouldnt drive at all. i also hope its not the trans either.
does any one have any pictures of what the shaft that goes in to the master cylinder under the fire wall looks like (wat a normal one looks like?)
also when you push the clutch pedal, the slave pushes out a rod that moves a "fork" that goes in to the trans, that only moves about an inch, is it not fully disengaging the clutch?
11-25-2009, 01:52 AM
#12
You still have air in the system, or the master might be bad too. The clutch master cylinder rod should have lined up with the peg on the pedal, if it didn't then there are other problems that can be fixed. A bad clutch won't make it stay in gear, it will slip.
11-25-2009, 02:22 AM
#13
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do you got a pic of wat the rod going in the the master is supposed to look like normally? theres a white plastic circle thing that sitcks out of the fire wall, well in the middle of the circle thing is the "push rod" that mounts to the clutch pedal linkage, that rod isnt alingned with white circle thing, it points downward towards the left, rod rubs on the plastic cirle thing . sorta looks like theres supposed to be a bushing or something there.
so it not the clutch or transmission then?!?!
i was thinking that, because the trans keeps getting power even when the clutch pedal is pushed, you have to shut the truck off when you come up to a stop sign if you cant get it in to neutral, then start it up and go .
also if i replace the master and the line, will that make the pedal function normally? will it raise back up and not sag ? also , when the slave was installed, the pedal was pumped, then pushed to the floor, bleeder was cracked and the air came out untill fluid came, then closed, did it again.
i read in another post, that youre susposed to fill the slave with fluid or something ? well it got done the way youd do brakes, so i hoping theres air in lines like you said. can you post the correct process how to bleed the slave with pouring fluid in to it? do you have to pump the pedal then crack the line when its to the floor after that?
so it not the clutch or transmission then?!?!
i was thinking that, because the trans keeps getting power even when the clutch pedal is pushed, you have to shut the truck off when you come up to a stop sign if you cant get it in to neutral, then start it up and go .
also if i replace the master and the line, will that make the pedal function normally? will it raise back up and not sag ? also , when the slave was installed, the pedal was pumped, then pushed to the floor, bleeder was cracked and the air came out untill fluid came, then closed, did it again.
i read in another post, that youre susposed to fill the slave with fluid or something ? well it got done the way youd do brakes, so i hoping theres air in lines like you said. can you post the correct process how to bleed the slave with pouring fluid in to it? do you have to pump the pedal then crack the line when its to the floor after that?
11-25-2009, 03:49 AM
#14
The external slave systems don't have a bleeder valve so bleeding them is tricky. When I said the clutch is fine that meant the clutch disc and pressure plate, you are having trouble with the hydraulic system. You would have to remove the slave and pour fluid into the hole where the line goes, keeping the hole at the highest point. Press the pushrod in slowly to expel air, then put the line back on quickly. After all is reassembled pump the clutch pedal with the clutch master cylinder cap off, allowing the pedal to come up as quickly as possible. It takes a lot of pumping to bleed it this way but it will eventually bleed.
The pushrod snaps into the master, there isn't any way to be misaligned unless it's not snapped in. You didn't say if the pushrod lined up with the pedal when you put it on, if it didn't then I'd say there was a different problem.
The pushrod snaps into the master, there isn't any way to be misaligned unless it's not snapped in. You didn't say if the pushrod lined up with the pedal when you put it on, if it didn't then I'd say there was a different problem.
11-25-2009, 06:59 AM
#15
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on the after market ones that are made out of metal, have the bleeder valve on top. although i didnt install it, just pumped the pedal while my friend was underneath bleeding it. the rod does line up with the clutch pedal linkage, not straight though, the rod hangs down a bit , doesnt run horizontally. so if theres no bleeder valve, how'd my friend bleed it?
the pedal was pumped like 10 times . so i guess id need to do more pumping , with all the air out of the line, will that bring the pedal back up?
the pedal was pumped like 10 times . so i guess id need to do more pumping , with all the air out of the line, will that bring the pedal back up?
11-25-2009, 07:44 PM
#16
I haven't seen an aftermarket slave with a bleeder, it sounds cool and much easier to deal with. I had to pump my pedal at least 100 times to get all the air out, and my system has a bleeder valve. After I cracked the bleeder the pedal stayed on the floor, I don't know why it does that but it isn't the only truck that it happens with. Then the pumping brings the pedal back up and pushes the rest of the air out of the master. My pushrod is pretty straight, I don't know why yours wouldn't be unless the pedal bushings are worn out, mine were. The bushings are on the rod that both the brake and clutch pedals are attached to. Your firewall may also have pushed out and someone took the end off the rod and repositioned it to take up the slack.
11-29-2009, 10:43 PM
#17
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okay did some work on it today.
the aftermarket slave cylinder is metal, and has a bleeder valve just like brakes do, rite in front of the plastic line from the master, i pumped it and pumped it, had the pedal go to the floor and the vave opened, only fluid would squirt out , after that the pedal would stick to the floor, had to pull it back up, sinks straight to the floor after bleeding it, after 2 pushes, it has some pressure again. also the pedal sagging it in the bracket or something, there is a large spring under the dash, and that spring flops around,but that still shouldnt affect how the clutch disengages.
still soft pedal, im thinking replace the master and the line, and keep pumping it and bleeding it, after pumping for about 5 min straight, it seems to shift in to other gears easier, but still grinds. sometimes youll get lucking and itll shift in to another gear fine.
the aftermarket slave cylinder is metal, and has a bleeder valve just like brakes do, rite in front of the plastic line from the master, i pumped it and pumped it, had the pedal go to the floor and the vave opened, only fluid would squirt out , after that the pedal would stick to the floor, had to pull it back up, sinks straight to the floor after bleeding it, after 2 pushes, it has some pressure again. also the pedal sagging it in the bracket or something, there is a large spring under the dash, and that spring flops around,but that still shouldnt affect how the clutch disengages.
still soft pedal, im thinking replace the master and the line, and keep pumping it and bleeding it, after pumping for about 5 min straight, it seems to shift in to other gears easier, but still grinds. sometimes youll get lucking and itll shift in to another gear fine.
11-29-2009, 10:50 PM
#18
The large spring, if it's the same one I'm thinking of, holds the clutch pedal up. I've got a picture of that somewhere too. If you're not getting air out of the bleeder anymore then you just have to pump the crap out of the pedal, it will come back to the top eventually unless there are other problems.
