'88 heater problem
11-26-2010, 06:50 PM
#1
'88 heater problem
I'm having a problem with my heater. It doesn't blow very hard and it definitely doesn't get hot. Everywhere I've looked online says that it could be the heater core. Thought I'd ask you guys before I go ripping my dash apart.
11-26-2010, 07:48 PM
#2
April 2010 TOTM Winner
Wait!
Do you have a wet passenger side floorboard?
Do you smell antifreeze inside your cab?
Do you have to add water or coolant to your radiator frequently?
If you answer NO to each of these questions,
you need not replace your heater core, you only replace a Heater Core if it is leaking.
Are you sure you have a Thermostat installed in your engine?
If the answer is Yes, your Thermostat could be STUCK wide-open and not letting the engine get hot enough to produce hot water for the heater. Replace the thermostat.
When you slide the dash Control Lever from Cool to Warm and back,
does it feel like it's connected to a cable or wire or is it loose?
Seriously, Check it out some more before you tackle the Heater Core Removal Project.
If it's not Broke, don't fix it!
Do you have a wet passenger side floorboard?
Do you smell antifreeze inside your cab?
Do you have to add water or coolant to your radiator frequently?
If you answer NO to each of these questions,
you need not replace your heater core, you only replace a Heater Core if it is leaking.
Are you sure you have a Thermostat installed in your engine?
If the answer is Yes, your Thermostat could be STUCK wide-open and not letting the engine get hot enough to produce hot water for the heater. Replace the thermostat.
When you slide the dash Control Lever from Cool to Warm and back,
does it feel like it's connected to a cable or wire or is it loose?
Seriously, Check it out some more before you tackle the Heater Core Removal Project.
If it's not Broke, don't fix it!
11-26-2010, 09:50 PM
#3
Senior Member
"doesn't blow very hard" - suggest to inspect the fan and the cowl air inlet, looking for air flow issues. Wadded-up leaf particles (as in the tree kind) are a suspect.
The fan is easily pulled from the engine compartment. Perhaps the blower has sheared from the motor?
Should have plenty of air coming out somewhere. Once that is solved, then can move on to the heat issue.
When things are working right - the heater should be able to run you out of the cab - even in the remotest parts of Alaska.
The fan is easily pulled from the engine compartment. Perhaps the blower has sheared from the motor?
Should have plenty of air coming out somewhere. Once that is solved, then can move on to the heat issue.
When things are working right - the heater should be able to run you out of the cab - even in the remotest parts of Alaska.
11-27-2010, 11:59 PM
#4
heater problems
I don't have a wet floorboard but I did notice today that there is a strong smell of anti freeze when I have the heater on. I haven't checked the blower yet or looked into the possibility of clogged airways. How will I know if the heater core is bad when I look at it? anything I need to look for?
11-28-2010, 10:49 AM
#5
Senior Member
The strong smell of anti-freeze is a strong indicator of a heater core leak, or a heater hose leak at the core tubing that dribbles coolant inside the heater box.
Doesn't have to be a gusher leaving the floor wet, sometimes just a trickle that flashes off. Another sign is a greasy film on the windows, the resulting fog making it difficult to see through until the defroster can do its job to dry things out.
If you really wish to prove there is a leak, suggest to get the engine up to operating temperature so that the system is pressurized. Also ensure the coolant level is topped off so there will be adequate flow through the core. Remove the core access panel behind the glove box and have a look for any coolant weeping or dripping, and have a sniff for the source of the coolant odor.
If you replace the core, recommend to get a good one, and not the bargain-basement offering. My experience has been that the cheapies do not have the full heat output - making defrosting and heating more challenging. Also, one particular model of cheapie encountered actually had about 1/3 of the fins blocked - as seen by holding the core up to the light, reducing airflow.
IMO, the heater core arrangement in this generation was one of Ford's better ideas - takes longer to gather and to put away the tools than it takes to actually change. Remove the access cover, take off the hoses, and voila - the core pops right out. Looking at about a half-hour job. This would also be a good opportunity to ensure the temperature control damper seals off properly for the full heating effect.
Doesn't have to be a gusher leaving the floor wet, sometimes just a trickle that flashes off. Another sign is a greasy film on the windows, the resulting fog making it difficult to see through until the defroster can do its job to dry things out.
If you really wish to prove there is a leak, suggest to get the engine up to operating temperature so that the system is pressurized. Also ensure the coolant level is topped off so there will be adequate flow through the core. Remove the core access panel behind the glove box and have a look for any coolant weeping or dripping, and have a sniff for the source of the coolant odor.
If you replace the core, recommend to get a good one, and not the bargain-basement offering. My experience has been that the cheapies do not have the full heat output - making defrosting and heating more challenging. Also, one particular model of cheapie encountered actually had about 1/3 of the fins blocked - as seen by holding the core up to the light, reducing airflow.
IMO, the heater core arrangement in this generation was one of Ford's better ideas - takes longer to gather and to put away the tools than it takes to actually change. Remove the access cover, take off the hoses, and voila - the core pops right out. Looking at about a half-hour job. This would also be a good opportunity to ensure the temperature control damper seals off properly for the full heating effect.
11-29-2010, 01:36 AM
#6
The strong smell of anti-freeze is a strong indicator of a heater core leak, or a heater hose leak at the core tubing that dribbles coolant inside the heater box.
Doesn't have to be a gusher leaving the floor wet, sometimes just a trickle that flashes off. Another sign is a greasy film on the windows, the resulting fog making it difficult to see through until the defroster can do its job to dry things out.
If you really wish to prove there is a leak, suggest to get the engine up to operating temperature so that the system is pressurized. Also ensure the coolant level is topped off so there will be adequate flow through the core. Remove the core access panel behind the glove box and have a look for any coolant weeping or dripping, and have a sniff for the source of the coolant odor.
If you replace the core, recommend to get a good one, and not the bargain-basement offering. My experience has been that the cheapies do not have the full heat output - making defrosting and heating more challenging. Also, one particular model of cheapie encountered actually had about 1/3 of the fins blocked - as seen by holding the core up to the light, reducing airflow.
IMO, the heater core arrangement in this generation was one of Ford's better ideas - takes longer to gather and to put away the tools than it takes to actually change. Remove the access cover, take off the hoses, and voila - the core pops right out. Looking at about a half-hour job. This would also be a good opportunity to ensure the temperature control damper seals off properly for the full heating effect.
Doesn't have to be a gusher leaving the floor wet, sometimes just a trickle that flashes off. Another sign is a greasy film on the windows, the resulting fog making it difficult to see through until the defroster can do its job to dry things out.
If you really wish to prove there is a leak, suggest to get the engine up to operating temperature so that the system is pressurized. Also ensure the coolant level is topped off so there will be adequate flow through the core. Remove the core access panel behind the glove box and have a look for any coolant weeping or dripping, and have a sniff for the source of the coolant odor.
If you replace the core, recommend to get a good one, and not the bargain-basement offering. My experience has been that the cheapies do not have the full heat output - making defrosting and heating more challenging. Also, one particular model of cheapie encountered actually had about 1/3 of the fins blocked - as seen by holding the core up to the light, reducing airflow.
IMO, the heater core arrangement in this generation was one of Ford's better ideas - takes longer to gather and to put away the tools than it takes to actually change. Remove the access cover, take off the hoses, and voila - the core pops right out. Looking at about a half-hour job. This would also be a good opportunity to ensure the temperature control damper seals off properly for the full heating effect.
Thanks for the info. I'll take a look at it tomorrow and see if that's the culprit.