blade z51

I notice that changing that line did not help .. I might not hurt, but it made no difference that I could tell. My A/C still changes from vents to defrost whenever the engine is not making vacuum.
Also, I had a friend look at that vacuum solenoid while I changed the heat and AC controls. It never moved while I messed with the controls with the engine running. I don't know what to look at next....

theshummer

z51,
Sorry to hear you have more problems. Someone in here will know what's going on.

Good news for me though. I re-taped my lines today using the previously described "good method" and my problem seems to have gone away. I got on the interstate today (where I normally have the problem) and got cool air through the vents the whole way. I accelerated hard from 40 to 60 and again from 70 to 80. Vents stayed on nice and strong the whole time. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this is the end of this particular problem for me.

Again, just two pieces of tape is all that's needed. One around the smaller original line to take up the space, and a second one around the new line and old line to keep them from coming apart. It has worked like a champ for me.

W Ligon

I'm not sure if we have the same problem but it is similar in most aspects.
Sometimes my A/C won't blow or will only blow from the defrost. I can usually fix that by changing the A/C from high to low. The previous owner had gotten a new A/C compressor but I don't know if hat was actually the problem or what.

theshummer

The symptoms sound similar. When it "won't blow" are you sure it's not coming out the floor vents? Check out the little white tube on the passenger side near the firewall under the hood. If it looks like the pictures from previous posts, you may have found your culprit.

W Ligon

I already posted that. I'll try and get it replace soon and see if that works.

And what would be ideal for connecting the new line to the old? I really don't want to use electrical tape.

blade z51

Try looking for hose (air line) with the same nominal I.D. as the O.D. of the vacuum line. I think 9/64" would be perfect but 1/8" or 5/32" might work. They'll have at the Auto parts store.

W Ligon

Yeah, I got that part but is there a need for clamps or anything to keep it on? Or should it just fit tight enough to stay on?

blade z51

If the fit is tight, you are done. If the fit is loose, you might still have a vacuum leak that is why (I think) one of the above posters suggested wrapping a bit of tape on the small tube to make the fit tight.

AlanS

Heat shrink tubing, especially the kind that has the glue lining (it'll be super-permanent) as long as the two tubes under are butted up against each other, since the heatshrink would flatten under vacuum.

Or rubber vacuum tubing (like for older cars) would be fine, if you can get the right sizing. Another thought would be go to a small-engine repair shop, I replaced some brittle, broken fuel line for a Weedeater with some nice silicone tubing - fuel proof - that would do the job nicely, wouldn't melt and shouldn't become brittle.

blade z51

I think that the disintegrated vacuum line was a factor in the issue of the vents. However, it looks like maybe my vacuum reservoir or the check valve might be defective. That vacuum motor that was fed by the line we are discussing is apparently the one that controls the outside air inlet or recirculating the inside air. With vacuum it will allow recirculating the inside air. With no vacuum, it appears to only allow outside air to come in.

I'll check the reservoir and check valve during the day and see if I can find the problem.