brake pedal wont return
 

I have a 95 f150 xlt, recently the brake pedal stopped returning to the top position when applied. I have replaced the master cylinder and brake booster with junkyard parts. I am getting the same results. The brakes work fine when I try to stop, just gotta pull the pedal up with my foot. Anyone got any ideas as to what the problem might be?

Welcome to the site.

Do you have any 'free play' in the pedal in that top portion of travel? Trying to understand whether the problem is on the hydraulic side, or if there's a linkage problem between the master cylinder and pedal.

I would have to say I do have some free play. Im gonna try to bleed them today. Is there a way to test the m/c and booster just in case i pulled parts that were bad? Thanks for the welcome and response.:thumbsup:

These frickin bleeder screws are driving me nuts. Time for a rag in the gas tank and a bic!!!! That will fix it.

Is there a spring under the dash that aids in the pedal return? Maybe it has snapped.

On a master cylinder changeout, it is often recommended to bench-bleed before installation.

With junkyard parts - you're taking your chances - especially if the brake system was damaged and left open to the atmosphere as a result.

Typically, the booster either works or it doesn't - with about the worst thing being a diaphragm leak that is noticed by the way it affects engine idle speed. Should the master cylinder be hanging up on crud or a nick in the wall - the o-rings won't be lasting long.

Can't think of anything offhand in the hydraulic system that would cause the free play - if there were a restriction in the fluid return flow, the master cylinder should pull fluid out of the reservoir???

It is important to get the booster link adjusted correctly with respect to the master cylinder during a replacement - however, don't know why the original parts had this play.

As for the bleeder screws - yes, they can be a challenge. I douse them with PBblaster for a couple of days before doing any work. The screws always seem to want to round off, adding yet another degree of difficulty to the mix.

Went back to the bone yard got another booster and now its all good. There is no return spring on the brake, the booster does the return. All my bleeder screws broke loose with a little (I mean a lot) PB and a hammer, so thats good. Next weekends project is to find ticking noise, i think its in the left head. I hope its something stupid like a worn push rod. Thanks for the help.:thumbup:

Okay I just went through this same thing on my 97 F 150, I bleed breaks all the way around changed the break booster, and was getting ready to order the master cylinder, I got back up under the dash where I unbolted the booster and noticed and nut and bolt that holds the break peddle I loosened the nut about 1 or 2 turns 13mm on one side and 10 on the other real easy to reach, after I loosened it then I sprayed with wd40 problem solved, do this before anything save yourself some money.

About 11 years too late... :rolleyes:

I recently went through this with my 1976 Ford F-150 XLT. I replaced the Brake Booster and Master Cylinder and bench bled the MC. I put it all back together and my brake pedal would not return enough to turn off the brake lights. I bled the brakes some more and had a neighbor stomp on the brakes to get really good pressure before I bled them. Still.....the pedal would not return far enough.

After sufficient gnashing of my teeth I had a look at the switch and I realized that switch can get closer to the piece of metal that turns the lights off. I had to adjust the two plastic nuts that the green arrows are pointing to. Problem solved.

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