BDC1

I'll do some more computer research. Thank you.

stxlt

I'll be the first Hater then....N I C E score! A free engine and parts cache and a refund of the purchase price at the Recycler.

stxlt

THIS bit of information repaid the cost of admission! Glad this thread gained new life....I can quit creepin' and get building!

BDC1

Thank you. I agree it was a very nice score and yes ultimately it's free!

stxlt

Copious thanks to qdeezie, BLDTruth, and SaltEater for the experienced help and advice. I enjoy a challenge but don't have deep pockets for trial-and-error R&D. BDC1, you are asking my questions and clued me to another source for parts - I had overlooked the E-series! Thanks!
My plan is to trace my way through qdeezie's 302/5.0L 300+ hp write-up using a 35-512-8 cam w/1-5-4... firing order (unless Comp has an updated grind). I intend to use 1 of my 302 intakes, corresponding ECM, and SD set-up. Someday, the lower engine will see the machine shop and quality replacement parts. The '92 donor truck's transmission is getting a few parts replaced to cope with under 350 hp around the 1st of May (should be fun) and will be installed behind the current engine for break-in and troubleshooting while the donor's engine gets freshened and worked.
So, while creeping every forum, Craigslist, and Facebook Marketplace since July of 2017, yesterday I stumbled upon a set of still-assembled, 2000 Mountaineer, GT40p 4 dash heads for $165 about 2 hours away. Should I grab the E-manifolds, valve covers, and accessory brackets? Besides a 3-angle valve job, new springs, lifters, pushrods, existing stamped rockers, and new hardware, are there any additional head suggestions? Should I bother doing lower intake manifold-to-intake port matching?
It got fun explaining how e7 heads suck, how GT40p heads and a cam swap offers better power and torque, and rationalizing against AFR Trick Flows with the Keeper of the Purse Strings last night! I quoted Sir qdeezie and enjoyed the conversation with Sweetie. She understands more than the basics and is no Rook to cars; she rebuilt a Buick bolt-by-bolt for her high skool ride.
Thanks again for forthcoming answers and a terrifically informative thread!

stxlt

Ever give any more thought or recollection to the Mustang crowd AOD solutions, qdeezie?

It amazes me the resources that are available for the 302 and the platforms that offer parts interchangeability - Crown Victoria, Mercury Grand Marquis, Mustangs, Exploders and Mountaineers, E-series vans, and for some parts exclusive of engine and transmission, F250 & up vehicles.

lgnd4u2nv

qdeezie you've helped answer some of my other questions, so i hope you don't mind me asking another one in this thread. Valve Seals - are the valve seals supposed to slide up and down on the valve stem or are they supposed to stay seated on the head? I've having trouble finding specific info on the 302, but know various motors use one or the other.

qdeezie

They are supposed to stay seated on the head.

lgnd4u2nv

Thanks for the quick reply! Interesting. I took the heads to an engine shop to have new valves, guides, seals, etc installed. Long story short, after putting everything back together I had a coolant leak from the headgasket, so I had to tear the engine back down. I noticed after teardown that some of the seals seem to have slid up the valve stem, no longer seated on the head. Machine shop says that is normal, so I'm trying to gather all the info I can to figure out if I have a problem. So it sounds like you would say yes, I do have a problem?

qdeezie

Yes, you very much so have a problem. One that I would not be happy about if I were in your shoes. Those seals are supposed to stay put.