HELP: Brakes 1993 F-150 Manual Hubs
#1
HELP: Brakes 1993 F-150 Manual Hubs
Need Help, Friends.
Need new front brakes on my 1993 F-150 with 4WD and Manual Locking Hubs.
For the rotors and axle hubs, will this work
Should I get better rotors? What Powerstop ones will work? I was hoping for a kit, but I do not think I will be that lucky?
For calipers, what will I need?
Thank you & God bless.
Need new front brakes on my 1993 F-150 with 4WD and Manual Locking Hubs.
For the rotors and axle hubs, will this work
Should I get better rotors? What Powerstop ones will work? I was hoping for a kit, but I do not think I will be that lucky?
For calipers, what will I need?
Thank you & God bless.
#2
I believe the 1993 has separate hub from rotor disk and the hub is quite pricey. Plus bearings, seals and hardware(very little in the way of kits or quality parts). Junk yard is an option, but I would really try to use what you have, unless the hub is damaged or the threads are completely wiped. Some front hubs are long and the threads can be damaged in spots where the hub has sagged or bent. The lock nut will spin perfectly, except a couple of 1/2 inch spots where it locks up due to thread damage. I use a thread chaser to repair them if possible.
I use Ford or moog stuff if I can get it. Mile marker and warn make hub lock replacement kits and seem to be pretty decent quality. Same for calipers.
If you do the hubs, while you are in there make sure the ball joints are good, and the U-joints are smooth.
I use Ford or moog stuff if I can get it. Mile marker and warn make hub lock replacement kits and seem to be pretty decent quality. Same for calipers.
If you do the hubs, while you are in there make sure the ball joints are good, and the U-joints are smooth.
#3
You do not happen to have a parts list, do you?
My mechanic basically told me, buy what I can, and he will put on for me. I am a little confused IRT rotors and calipers and all.
Thank you.
My mechanic basically told me, buy what I can, and he will put on for me. I am a little confused IRT rotors and calipers and all.
Thank you.
#4
Senior Member
The rotor on the amazon page should be the correct one for the truck. And for a parts list, it depends on how deep you want to dig. Since that truck uses hub-style rotors, removing the rotors means removing the wheel bearings and seals, too. So you should check those out, replace if needed, but just repack with grease if they are still good. The spindle that the hub sits on also has a bearing and seal on the back of it, so if you want to spend the extra time, you can pull that out and check it out/regrease it. Like kd4pc said, look at the ball joints and front u-joints. I wouldn't really recommend replacing everything just for the heck of it, new does NOT always mean better, so if you only need brakes, just go in expecting to replace just the brakes, but be ready to get anything else you might need, or you could buy everything, and then return what you don't use. If the calipers are in need of replacement, pretty much any option you find will be re-manufactured, so just look for quality brands with good reviews.
#5
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If you have a mechanic, he should have told you which parts your truck needs. It doesn't need "them all". What exactly is wrong with the brakes? It's very likely that they only need cleaning & proper installation using the correct lubricant.
#6
Do I just get stuff from Advance Auto or should I try for PowerStop or something else? Part numbers appreciated.
Thank you.
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#8
Senior Member
Eh, suppose it's a matter of personal preferences and budget - mine is not to go cheap on brakes and steering stuff, figuring if I can steer and stop, greatly reduces the chances of getting into trouble.
Towards that, would lean towards names I know and have come to trust - like Motorcraft or Raybestos. Also, have grown to have a pucker factor on any store-branded or similar parts from a chain store, recalling the early days of the Zone, when they were known as AutoShack - where the then-lifetime parts warranty lost its luster after replacing failed but now no-cost parts for the 3rd or 4th time... Only bright side was I got really fast and efficient with the replacements, given the practice - which wrenches to grab, what order to do things, etc. :-)
So, yeah, the parts you listed will probably work, question being how well, and for how long?
Towards that, would lean towards names I know and have come to trust - like Motorcraft or Raybestos. Also, have grown to have a pucker factor on any store-branded or similar parts from a chain store, recalling the early days of the Zone, when they were known as AutoShack - where the then-lifetime parts warranty lost its luster after replacing failed but now no-cost parts for the 3rd or 4th time... Only bright side was I got really fast and efficient with the replacements, given the practice - which wrenches to grab, what order to do things, etc. :-)
So, yeah, the parts you listed will probably work, question being how well, and for how long?
#9
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What do you mean? The minimum for what? The minimum parts to change are those that have failed in some way, or are due on the maintenance schedule. Those brake parts AREN'T on the schedule - the only brake component that is, is the fluid.I suggest finding out exactly what's wrong with EACH part that the mechanic wants to replace. If he can't show you, then he's guessing, and he's probably guessing wrong.
#10
What do you mean? The minimum for what? The minimum parts to change are those that have failed in some way, or are due on the maintenance schedule. Those brake parts AREN'T on the schedule - the only brake component that is, is the fluid.I suggest finding out exactly what's wrong with EACH part that the mechanic wants to replace. If he can't show you, then he's guessing, and he's probably guessing wrong.