Fuel Injection to Carberator swap
10-31-2010, 11:26 PM
#1
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Fuel Injection to Carberator swap
I have been trying to diagnose a problem with my daughter's truck, see the following thread: https://www.f150forum.com/f10/91-f15...problem-64170/
I was talking with my Dad over the weekend, and we got on the subject of awapping it over to a old style distributor and carberator. I know I would have to swap out the intake, buy a new distributor, and do some wiring, but I am about ready to throw in the towel in this computerized system on this truck.
I am not proficent with this troubleshooting a computerized system. It is getting frustrating. I haven't given up just yet, but I do need to get this truck running one way or another.
Thanks,
Jimmy
I was talking with my Dad over the weekend, and we got on the subject of awapping it over to a old style distributor and carberator. I know I would have to swap out the intake, buy a new distributor, and do some wiring, but I am about ready to throw in the towel in this computerized system on this truck.
I am not proficent with this troubleshooting a computerized system. It is getting frustrating. I haven't given up just yet, but I do need to get this truck running one way or another.
Thanks,
Jimmy
11-05-2010, 09:19 AM
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have you found your problem- or did you make the switch? I have a 1991 efi 4.9l im considering putting in my 83', but not sure about all the electronics. Thinking about just taking the carb, intake, etc off of the old broke engine and puttin it on the 'new' engine
11-05-2010, 12:06 PM
#4
April 2010 TOTM Winner
I read your first thread.
Replace Fuel Filter and see if the engine runs longer than 5 minutes.
Check the EEC / ECU Relay for a clicking sound, under hood on drivers side
(Brown color EEC Relay near the Green color Fuel Pump Relay)
If no clicking sound can be heard when first turning the key to on,
one of the Relays may be bad.
But as others said; replace fuel filter first!
(You have not mentioned that you replaced it yet)
Or
Install NEW Coil (I understand the salvage truck was running, but...)
A new Coil is not expensive and checking a good coil with a Volt / Ohms Meter
will fry the Volt Meter to a useless piece of junk that will never work again.
As you know; the coil takes voltage and steps it up to more than 10,000 volts)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Swapping to a carburetor is going backwards, a lot of work and will never be as good as a working electronic computerized fuel management system.
(This is probably a simple fix)
|
Replace Fuel Filter and see if the engine runs longer than 5 minutes.
Check the EEC / ECU Relay for a clicking sound, under hood on drivers side
(Brown color EEC Relay near the Green color Fuel Pump Relay)
If no clicking sound can be heard when first turning the key to on,
one of the Relays may be bad.
But as others said; replace fuel filter first!
(You have not mentioned that you replaced it yet)
Or
Install NEW Coil (I understand the salvage truck was running, but...)
A new Coil is not expensive and checking a good coil with a Volt / Ohms Meter
will fry the Volt Meter to a useless piece of junk that will never work again.
As you know; the coil takes voltage and steps it up to more than 10,000 volts)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Swapping to a carburetor is going backwards, a lot of work and will never be as good as a working electronic computerized fuel management system.
(This is probably a simple fix)
|
Last edited by 1987 F-150 XLT 4x4; 11-05-2010 at 12:24 PM. Reason: Added a word
11-05-2010, 07:42 PM
#5
Springer Spaniels Rule
edelbrock performer intake, edelbrock carb, crane fireball box, duraspark dist, low pressure electric fuel pump, hook pink\black stripe wire to key power, and you are all set.
11-10-2010, 07:33 PM
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Thanks for the responses. I have not done the swap.
I am still trying to figure it out. I have been busy with work thankfully, so this is not getting much attention right now. I just took one of my other trucks to the shop today, (I had two of our four vehicles down at the same time!), so I can focus on this one a little more.
I think I have it narrowed down between the ignition module and the PIP sensor in the distributor.
When I try to turn over the motor to start, my test light just glows constantly, it does not pulse at all. According to the Hayes manual, it says to swap out the ignition module (which is already new). I have also read that if one of those goes out, generally the other goes out as well.
I am still trying to figure it out. I have been busy with work thankfully, so this is not getting much attention right now. I just took one of my other trucks to the shop today, (I had two of our four vehicles down at the same time!), so I can focus on this one a little more.
I think I have it narrowed down between the ignition module and the PIP sensor in the distributor.
When I try to turn over the motor to start, my test light just glows constantly, it does not pulse at all. According to the Hayes manual, it says to swap out the ignition module (which is already new). I have also read that if one of those goes out, generally the other goes out as well.
