phogroian

Sorry to make my first post a repair issue, but I just bought a 1987 F150 (5.0 EFI, RWD) that I need to get on the road soon. Though sold with the claim of "no problems", the truck has a few glaring issues that need to be addressed.

For some reason the engine overheats and hot coolant comes spraying out of the top-off tank after about 15 minutes of driving. The radiator, rad cap, and hoses do not seem to have any leaks. Any idea as to what the problem is? The truck had been sitting for some time, if that might offer any clues.

Also... the inspection station noticed some play when rocking the front wheels with the truck lifted, and advised lower ball joints. Would that be the problem, and should I be doing the upper ball joint while the suspension is apart?

Aktech

Change the thermostat and flush it. Usually when one thing on the front end goes it all needs to be replaced.

unit505

First off.......Welcome to the forums!
I just took up the option of upper ball joints and asked myself, $30 ball joints or $99 upper control arms with ball joints installed. I was paying labor charges and came out much better with the upper control arm assemblies with new bushings and greasable ball joints. Even if I was doing this myself, it was easier to do the whole assembly. X2 on Aktech's t-stat suggestion.

phogroian

Unit505, thanks for the control arm assembly advice. I'll be bringing it into a shop that specializes in truck repair on Tuesday for an evaluation. The VA inspection station (gas station) that said that I need lower ball joints only quoted $100 each plus $400 for installation.

I'm still having problems with the cooling system. I just bought a premium Stant "Superstat" 180 degree thermostat, part 45358, and a gasket, and a new upper hose. I flushed and backflushed the radiator and block (looked pretty clean, actually) and installed the new thermostat (those two bolts are hard to access!). The engine warmed up nicely, the thermostat opened eventually, as I could feel the hot coolant entering the top radiator hose. There were absolutely no leaks and the 5.0 engine ran smoothly. I drove it for 10 minutes and it overheated again. When I stopped the truck coolant that was literally boiling was coming out of the plastic reserve tank. I'm stumped. Has this happened to anyone else?

Aktech

Wonder if the water pump is going out. Has the pump ever be changed.?

phogroian

The reseller I bought it from got it as an estate trade-in at a dealership- The history is a big question mark. Could It be the coolant pump? I thought the only way they fail is by letting coolant past the mechanical seal. Could the pump itself be ineffective if the belt is turning it?

unit505

Unit505, thanks for the control arm assembly advice. I'll be bringing it into a shop that specializes in truck repair on Tuesday for an evaluation. The VA inspection station (gas station) that said that I need lower ball joints only quoted $100 each plus $400 for installation.

I'm still having problems with the cooling system. I just bought a premium Stant "Superstat" 180 degree thermostat, part 45358, and a gasket, and a new upper hose. I flushed and backflushed the radiator and block (looked pretty clean, actually) and installed the new thermostat (those two bolts are hard to access!). The engine warmed up nicely, the thermostat opened eventually, as I could feel the hot coolant entering the top radiator hose. There were absolutely no leaks and the 5.0 engine ran smoothly. I drove it for 10 minutes and it overheated again. When I stopped the truck coolant that was literally boiling was coming out of the plastic reserve tank. I'm stumped. Has this happened to anyone else?[/QUOTE]

Moogs only run about $38 and Master Pro's around $18. Honestly, I've used both and no problems. They're getting their 10% mark up for sure. Edit, disregard my brilliance on the upper control arm. I just had the 2000 Silverado 4x repaired and honestly didn't even realize that our gen had no upper control arm. Google had me scratching my head.[QUOTE=phogroian;3510998]

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

I was going to say...

Rusty but trusty

Could be the cooling fan clutch.... See how that looks/feels. Your radiator cap could be shot... Check/replace that. Look at the radiator itself to make sure all the fins are good and air can flow through. The only other thing it could be is low flow (failed pump) or a blown head gasket. You can rent a coolant system pressure tester and check for any leaks.

lvsmustangs

I had this same exact problem. First I checked thermostat then bypassed the heater core and still same result. Thought the radiator was blocked so removed bottom hose and top hose to on pour water through radiator to make sure wasnt blocked. Then replaced the fan clutch and thats what it was. The crazy thing about it was when I I tried to spin the fan it had resistance and was tight. So when I went to on the parts store to on get a new one I wanted to feel the difference it was very little difference in the new compared to the old.but thatlittle difference made a huge difference onmy u truck. It was 65bucs at Advanced auto. Give it a try when I installed the new one I couldnt believe the difference I heard in airflow pulling out. My coolant was bubbling out of the overflow box just Pl ike yours I mean full on boil and would push about 1 and half gallons out. I upgraded the radiator also to a 2 and quarter thick radiator. That 1 inch radiator is small for a 302 I think.last good luck