KentuckyCountryBoy

The 5.0 currently in my '92 F-150 is on it's last leg. I'm suspecting the intake gasket has failed for the second time in 6 months (oil has a slight "milky" stripe in it), the mechanical gauge I installed a couple months ago reads right at 7 or 8psi at idle once it gets to operating temp. (reads 45psi on start-up), and has just become completely gutless. Sorry that was more of a rant than explanation.

Here's what I have in mind:
- Grab another 302 from a '93 in the JY down the road - $150 for the complete motor.
- Is a '93 a roller motor? I know it's a roller-ready block.
- Rebuild said engine as a slightly modded 302/306.
- What is a good rebuild kit to order? This is my daily driver, but it's the only truck I have, and I occasionally beat on it, so I need it to handle some abuse (mostly just higher revs...). I do maintain my truck very well though, just want quality parts.
- What's a good SD friendly cam for the (hopefully) roller motor?
- I'm on a budget and can't afford exhaust work, but my manifolds are shot, so can I get shorties that will bolt-up to my stock y-pipe?
- I plan on getting a high-output coil, new (most likely MSD) cap and rotor, performance wires with Motorcraft or Autolite plugs.

Sorry for the huge post, just thought I'd get it all out there. Any help and any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Thatonekid

Several brands offer shorties that bolt in hooker flowtech pacesetter heddman jba and Ford racing all make them flowtech have o2 provisions and gray coated cost like 259 at jegs. Those or heddman are you're cheapest option

qdeezie

Honestly, if it was me, I'd do a stock rebuild on the engine and put any additional funds into the exhaust.

I'd just make sure that I could get as many new parts in it as possible.

I'd reuse the stock camshaft or get a 94-96 F150 or 5.0L Explorer camshaft. You can get them cheap and you could even find a used one in good condition.

Also, I'd replace the lifters, pistons, rod bolts, bearings, rings, oil pump, oil pump shaft and maybe the head bolts.

Gaskets would have to be Fel Pro perma seal where possible.

A fresh stock engine with a few minor upgrades (ignition/exhaust) in my opinion is strong and efficient. Not to mention, it will be very durable since you'd be on top of your oil changes from Day 1.

That's just my 2 cents.

qdeezie

Oh, one more thing. Regarding the intake gasket, try using Bars Leak http://www.barsproducts.com/PLT11.htm and also, I thought I had an intake manifold leak mixing into my oil, but come find out my dipstick was not fitting as tightly as it was, which created the pasty film on the dipstick and under the oil fill cap. I ended up ordering a brand new dipstick from Ford and the problem was solved. The new dipstick actually snapped into the dipstick tube, so I know it had a snug fit.

KentuckyCountryBoy

It's my understanding that the later stock cams won't work on SD, only MAF.

It's gonna be a full rebuild. Like I said, JY engine to build off. It'll most likely have to be bored 30 over anyway. I got most of it figured out, just need the details on the cam and stuff.

qdeezie

SD usually doesn't respond well to cams that have low vacuum. The later stock cam and aftermarket cams both have higher lift, higher duration, etc., so you might want to do some research on whether or not the cam upgrade will work with SD (especially from a vacuum perspective) before buying the cam. That was my thought when recommending the later stock cam. We know that cam more than likely has sufficient vacuum.

At any rate, look into RV/Towing camshafts and what the corresponding compression ratio requirement is. Those seem to work better with trucks. You geth economy, driveability, good vacuum and a nice bit of torque.

Personally, I like Keith Black pistons. Part number KB115 is good if you want your compression in the 9.1:1 range with stock heads. Part number KB116 is if you want your compression in the 10.0:1 range with stock heads. I'd recommend going with the 9.1:1 range if you're using an RV cam.

Oh, and the 93 is a roller block w/the roller cam already in it. Our trucks came standard with rollers beginning in 92.

Hope this helps some.

bluecar5556

Any time there are changes to the volumetric efficiency of the engine such as changing the cam profile, the EEC should be re-programmed to match and achieve best results, otherwise the dyno may prove all the hard work is not worth the money. After all, MAP sensors must be thought of as high maintenance woman, very very picky unlike the MAF sensor.

A wideband oxygen sensor can be installed in the exhaust to ensure the engine does not dangerously go lean, just in case. It will tell you the exact air:fuel ratio, unlike the stock narrow band O2 sensors.