4.9 Cooling Fan
#11
Martin
Thread Starter
Maybe throw it on now with a switch as a pusher just for the ac or heavy towing. That would be an easy install and would be nice not having to depend on it.
#12
Salvage Yard Pro
Just study the info on the site and go for it. I know it's easier said than done, but it will never be done if you don't try it. With my dual fans, each wired separately, I have a failsafe in place.
#13
Senior Member
sdmartin how would there be room with the mech fan in?
unit I have been wanting to and I have everything ready to do it but after that fuse melted on me I have just been worried about being stuck out
unit I have been wanting to and I have everything ready to do it but after that fuse melted on me I have just been worried about being stuck out
#14
Salvage Yard Pro
Well, the easiest way is to test each component. Test each fan out of the truck using 12v leads from the battery. If the fans work, then they are good. The wire and test the controller using a hair drier on the controller probe. If it switches on with high temp and cuts off when the heat is removed, then your controller is good. You can test each relay and confirm your wiring before doing your final wiring. 10g wiring is great and a 50a mega fuse should suffice. When I wired all of my lighting today, I tested each component and had it laid out for install and it went great. You would have to wire the fans as pushers, wired in reverse to run the mech and E-Fan and I'm not sure that a stock set of E-Fan will work for this. It probably will and the fans will have to be on the front of the radiator. I think your going to create more airflow blockage when the fans are off and they'll probably run twice as much.
#15
Martin
Thread Starter
There is a good 5 inches behind the mechanical fan and at least 6 inches behind the radiator for a pusher. Wiring to a switch would be pretty simple. I had to do it on a Chevy Citation back when and like you I don't like wiring. If I remember right, a hot going to the switch with an inline fuse and then a hot to the fan. Fan wire grounded to the frame. Only used when I flipped the switch.
#17
Salvage Yard Pro
There is a good 5 inches behind the mechanical fan and at least 6 inches behind the radiator for a pusher. Wiring to a switch would be pretty simple. I had to do it on a Chevy Citation back when and like you I don't like wiring. If I remember right, a hot going to the switch with an inline fuse and then a hot to the fan. Fan wire grounded to the frame. Only used when I flipped the switch.
Now I will say this, just a pusher is an excellent choice for an off road mud truck where mud can clog the radiator. Even better when a set of factory electrics are used. A factory electric will have a Shroud to block part of the mud from entering the rad and the pressure created by a pusher right up against the rad will aid in pushing mud through and out of the rad. Done this on many ATV'S and mud trucks with an electric fan override switch and relay. People seem to knock e-fans when it comes to mud and water. They are very easy to wire in a kill switch for entering a pit or water crossing and very effective at clearing the rad when needed via a manual switch. So many options that you can't get from a stock mech fan.
Last edited by unit505; 06-02-2014 at 12:54 AM.
#18
Martin
Thread Starter
Like I said don't care much for wiring. The fan connector on the Citation got oil in it and would without warning stop working. Got sick of that and jumpered a switch in, it still had all the factory stuff. Winter or summer when my wife drove it I had her turn the fan on. That didn't last long as we ended up with a new car.