4.9 conversion to 5.0
#11
April 2010 TOTM Winner
My truck has the 4.9 and i just don't think it's going to cut it! If i swap to a 302 how extensive will i have to get with the motor mounts?
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The 302ci / 5.0L is okay for a car motor, it does sound better than a straight six.
The 300ci / 4.9L is a low RPM heavy-duty truck motor, which red-lines at 4000 RPM.
Go with a 351W and not a 351M. (Modified)
The 351M has a different bolt pattern than the 300/302/351W
The 351M/400M/429/460ci engines all have the same rear bolt patterns (7 3/4” Center to Center)
The two top holes on rear of the 4.9L engine measure 5 1/8" Center to Center.
The 4.9L, 5.0L, and the 5.8L (351 Windsor & 351 Cleveland) engines all measure 5 1/8" Center to Center.
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The F-150 4.9L RADIATOR may be different, the inlet and outlet may be smaller and on opposite sides than a V-8 F-150.
(I know radiators are different on 1967-79 F-Series with the 4.9L / 300ci engines, not sure about 1987-91 F-150's with the 4.9L)
MOTOR MOUNTS will have to be changed as the other guys have said.
The STARTER will be different.
The COMPUTER from the V-8 F-150 is a must have.
(Located behind driver's side kick panel)
The FLEX-PLATE will be different.
(The 4.9L is internally balanced and the 5.0L and 5.8L are externally balanced engines)
The THROTTLE CABLE and DOWN-SHIFT LINKAGE from the transmission to the engine may be different.
As the other guys have said;
it would be best to get another complete truck with a V-8 engine to do this swap!
Also try to find a donor F-150 with the same type of transmission as yours, because there are several different versions of automatic transmissions that came in the 1987-96 trucks.
C6 (3 speed) and the E4OD (4 Speed Electronic) and the early and the late models AOD. (3 speed w/OD)
Hope this helps and good luck!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
The 302ci / 5.0L is okay for a car motor, it does sound better than a straight six.
The 300ci / 4.9L is a low RPM heavy-duty truck motor, which red-lines at 4000 RPM.
Go with a 351W and not a 351M. (Modified)
The 351M has a different bolt pattern than the 300/302/351W
The 351M/400M/429/460ci engines all have the same rear bolt patterns (7 3/4” Center to Center)
The two top holes on rear of the 4.9L engine measure 5 1/8" Center to Center.
The 4.9L, 5.0L, and the 5.8L (351 Windsor & 351 Cleveland) engines all measure 5 1/8" Center to Center.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The F-150 4.9L RADIATOR may be different, the inlet and outlet may be smaller and on opposite sides than a V-8 F-150.
(I know radiators are different on 1967-79 F-Series with the 4.9L / 300ci engines, not sure about 1987-91 F-150's with the 4.9L)
MOTOR MOUNTS will have to be changed as the other guys have said.
The STARTER will be different.
The COMPUTER from the V-8 F-150 is a must have.
(Located behind driver's side kick panel)
The FLEX-PLATE will be different.
(The 4.9L is internally balanced and the 5.0L and 5.8L are externally balanced engines)
The THROTTLE CABLE and DOWN-SHIFT LINKAGE from the transmission to the engine may be different.
As the other guys have said;
it would be best to get another complete truck with a V-8 engine to do this swap!
Also try to find a donor F-150 with the same type of transmission as yours, because there are several different versions of automatic transmissions that came in the 1987-96 trucks.
C6 (3 speed) and the E4OD (4 Speed Electronic) and the early and the late models AOD. (3 speed w/OD)
Hope this helps and good luck!
Last edited by 1987 F-150 XLT 4x4; 06-15-2010 at 07:20 AM.
#13
April 2010 TOTM Winner
The 4.9L is a long stroke engine with a 3.98 in stroke.
Do you have a 240ci or a 300ci ?
Because a 240ci has a shorter stroke and will rev higher.
If you do have a 4.9L / 300ci, and it revs to 5700 RPM, it cannot be a stock engine.
My 1987 4.9L EFI engine is balanced ($400.00 extra for all 6 pistons to weigh the same) and 4,200 RPM is now my red-line, any higher RPM; it is losing horsepower.
(It is a lot smoother @ 4200 RPM than a non-balanced 4.9L engine is)
I have owned several 4.9L engines over the years, and all red-lined at 4000 RPM.
(I had a 1976, 1978, 1979 and 1987 Ford truck) All were stock 4.9L engines.
Really? Your stock Ford 4.9L / 300ci / Straight Six engine turning 5,700 RPM?
I will get out on the limb and say that if I wound my stock, balanced 1987 4.9L engine to 5700 RPM, it would bend the rods or float the valves and be losing HP above 4,200.
It would be screaming to shift!
Sean, I will be waiting for your reply, cause I know it's coming. ha
#15
We'd do it
iTrader: (1)
I didn't say I run it to 5700, but what I meant is that the factory tach redline starts at 5700. The factory is usually pretty conservative when marking these gauges too. I've ran mine as high as about 4300 or so, but it was a-screaming. Yes I have the 4.9 fuel injected stock engine.
#16
Senior Member
Was tryin' to see if I could rev it that high and blow up the engine, so I'd have a reason to swap in a big block. It didn't die after I held it there for 30 seconds, so I decided to keep the motor until it dies on its own.
#17
April 2010 TOTM Winner
F-150 4.9L Red-line
Just call me Sean;
I didn't say I run it to 5700, but what I meant is that the factory tach redline starts at 5700. The factory is usually pretty conservative when marking these gauges too. I've ran mine as high as about 4300 or so, but it was a-screaming. Yes I have the 4.9 fuel injected stock engine.
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Okay, I misunderstood.
I just don't want anyone to think they can get more horsepower/torque
out of an 1970-90's Ford 4.9L STOCK engine by going over 4000 RPM,
because the engine stopped producing HP at 4,000 RPM.
I do not have an actual red-line on my 1987 F-150 tachometer, just 0 to 6K.
I have another 1987-91 F-150 instrument cluster that I bought on eBay
and the tachometer does not have a red-line, just 0 to 6,000 RPM.
I thought:
Ford used this same tachometer for 1987-91 F-Series trucks with gasoline V-8's up to 460ci
and these stock engines run out of air at 5000 RPM and start losing HP.
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The 1987-91 Ford truck with an I H Diesel engine has lower tachometer numbers.
The 87-91 F-Series Diesel tachometer reads 0 to 4,000 RPM
and should not be revved anywhere near 4,000 RPM.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Below is a picture of my 87 F-150 White Face tachometer and
the other is a 1987-91 Gasoline engine tachometer.
I didn't say I run it to 5700, but what I meant is that the factory tach redline starts at 5700. The factory is usually pretty conservative when marking these gauges too. I've ran mine as high as about 4300 or so, but it was a-screaming. Yes I have the 4.9 fuel injected stock engine.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Okay, I misunderstood.
I just don't want anyone to think they can get more horsepower/torque
out of an 1970-90's Ford 4.9L STOCK engine by going over 4000 RPM,
because the engine stopped producing HP at 4,000 RPM.
I do not have an actual red-line on my 1987 F-150 tachometer, just 0 to 6K.
I have another 1987-91 F-150 instrument cluster that I bought on eBay
and the tachometer does not have a red-line, just 0 to 6,000 RPM.
I thought:
Ford used this same tachometer for 1987-91 F-Series trucks with gasoline V-8's up to 460ci
and these stock engines run out of air at 5000 RPM and start losing HP.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The 1987-91 Ford truck with an I H Diesel engine has lower tachometer numbers.
The 87-91 F-Series Diesel tachometer reads 0 to 4,000 RPM
and should not be revved anywhere near 4,000 RPM.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Below is a picture of my 87 F-150 White Face tachometer and
the other is a 1987-91 Gasoline engine tachometer.
Last edited by 1987 F-150 XLT 4x4; 06-15-2010 at 07:25 AM. Reason: Added more info
#19
April 2010 TOTM Winner
In my Ford F-150 Picture Profile;
you can see the white-face gauges on at nighttime.
They were about $25.
I removed the instrument cluster from the truck to install.
It has a thin On/Off button, which hangs down near the emergency brake handle,
but you can put anywhere.