351w Roller Build
11-17-2017, 08:22 PM
#21
For what it's worth, I think it's going to come down to whether you want to build a full blown race vehicle to take to the track and register some 1/4 mile times, or if you want a nice dependable daily driver with a little more oomph attached to the gas pedal.
If it's the 1st one you're a long way and a lot of money away from getting it there and it still won't pull the front wheels on a truck.
If it's the second one you're pretty much there, you just need to scare up a few parts to make it happen.
Lumpy cam, race heads, edelbrock intake and a 2000.00 exhaust system on the truck you're driving to work isn't high on the practicality scale.
But if it makes you happy, then the rest doesn't matter.
If it's the 1st one you're a long way and a lot of money away from getting it there and it still won't pull the front wheels on a truck.
If it's the second one you're pretty much there, you just need to scare up a few parts to make it happen.
Lumpy cam, race heads, edelbrock intake and a 2000.00 exhaust system on the truck you're driving to work isn't high on the practicality scale.
But if it makes you happy, then the rest doesn't matter.
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BLDTruth (11-17-2017)
11-17-2017, 08:58 PM
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Get your damn logic out of my thread Chris. I don't wanna hear it 
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04-21-2018, 09:56 AM
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Been a minute since I posted in this thread, but plans have changed. I had the engine up for sale on CL for a price I never thought anyone would pay thinking eventually I would get around to putting it in my truck. Been up for months. But sure enough, yesterday someone came and paid what I was asking.
In other news, a buddy just bought a 93 crew cab 4x4 dually centurion 460, with only 103K miles, and he is trying to convince me to buy the 460 from him for $400 so he has the rest of the money for his 7.3 swap. It needs a timing cover gasket and probably an oil pan gasket, but that's easy once it is out of the truck. I am leaning towards buying it just because I know I can make my money back on it if I flip it - and I would be helping out a buddy. But the idea of dropping a re-gasketed 460 into my truck with only 103k miles is......tempting. I have been reading about the swap and it looks like you need special motor mounts and perches, along with the right headers to clear the cross-member. I think my front springs would handle the weight difference - from what I can gather a 460 is really only about 175 lbs heavier than a 302, and I already have F250 replacement coils. There is also something to do with relocating the oil filter because of clearance issues, but his 460 already has an oil cooler on it which relocated the filter. Obviously I would need a new transmission and new computer/wiring harnesses.
Anyways, I am just starting to look into it. I drive my truck maybe 2000 miles per year at most these days, so gas mileage doesn't matter. It will eventually get lifted with big tires, maybe even an upgraded drive-train with Super Duty axles. It's a life project.
If I decide to actually do it I will start another thread, but all advice is always welcome
In other news, a buddy just bought a 93 crew cab 4x4 dually centurion 460, with only 103K miles, and he is trying to convince me to buy the 460 from him for $400 so he has the rest of the money for his 7.3 swap. It needs a timing cover gasket and probably an oil pan gasket, but that's easy once it is out of the truck. I am leaning towards buying it just because I know I can make my money back on it if I flip it - and I would be helping out a buddy. But the idea of dropping a re-gasketed 460 into my truck with only 103k miles is......tempting. I have been reading about the swap and it looks like you need special motor mounts and perches, along with the right headers to clear the cross-member. I think my front springs would handle the weight difference - from what I can gather a 460 is really only about 175 lbs heavier than a 302, and I already have F250 replacement coils. There is also something to do with relocating the oil filter because of clearance issues, but his 460 already has an oil cooler on it which relocated the filter. Obviously I would need a new transmission and new computer/wiring harnesses.
Anyways, I am just starting to look into it. I drive my truck maybe 2000 miles per year at most these days, so gas mileage doesn't matter. It will eventually get lifted with big tires, maybe even an upgraded drive-train with Super Duty axles. It's a life project.
If I decide to actually do it I will start another thread, but all advice is always welcome
04-24-2018, 08:12 PM
#25
"there is no replacement for cubic inches"
Had my share of big blocks. They do stuff stock that you have to fight like hell to get out of a small block. With very little effort.
429 was my personal favourite. Power, torque and revs like heck.
460 is a stroked, (de-tuned) 429 basically. With a little tuning mileage isn't nearly as bad as you would think if you keep your foot out of it. It doesn't really have to work that hard to push your truck down the highway. And doesn't seem to care if you have a boat hooked to the back or not.
The frame perches for the motor mounts are very similar but different in that they have holes for 4 bolts instead of 2. And your transmission bolt pattern are totally different.
But fuel pressure requirements are the same and if I recall correctly the firing order may be the same as the 302 HO/351. I could look it up, but I'll just let someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Usually the rad is way bigger so you might have to take a saw to the center of your rad saddle but the main thing is it fits and your truck will (or can be made to) run it.
If'n you never had a big block before, I can tell you this about that : a 460 doesn't care that your truck weighs more than a Mustang - it'll pick it up and throw it down the highway like it weighs nothing.
Everyone should have that much fun at least once.
Had my share of big blocks. They do stuff stock that you have to fight like hell to get out of a small block. With very little effort.
429 was my personal favourite. Power, torque and revs like heck.
460 is a stroked, (de-tuned) 429 basically. With a little tuning mileage isn't nearly as bad as you would think if you keep your foot out of it. It doesn't really have to work that hard to push your truck down the highway. And doesn't seem to care if you have a boat hooked to the back or not.
The frame perches for the motor mounts are very similar but different in that they have holes for 4 bolts instead of 2. And your transmission bolt pattern are totally different.
But fuel pressure requirements are the same and if I recall correctly the firing order may be the same as the 302 HO/351. I could look it up, but I'll just let someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Usually the rad is way bigger so you might have to take a saw to the center of your rad saddle but the main thing is it fits and your truck will (or can be made to) run it.
If'n you never had a big block before, I can tell you this about that : a 460 doesn't care that your truck weighs more than a Mustang - it'll pick it up and throw it down the highway like it weighs nothing.
Everyone should have that much fun at least once.
04-25-2018, 09:43 AM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
"there is no replacement for cubic inches"
Had my share of big blocks. They do stuff stock that you have to fight like hell to get out of a small block. With very little effort.
429 was my personal favourite. Power, torque and revs like heck.
460 is a stroked, (de-tuned) 429 basically. With a little tuning mileage isn't nearly as bad as you would think if you keep your foot out of it. It doesn't really have to work that hard to push your truck down the highway. And doesn't seem to care if you have a boat hooked to the back or not.
The frame perches for the motor mounts are very similar but different in that they have holes for 4 bolts instead of 2. And your transmission bolt pattern are totally different.
But fuel pressure requirements are the same and if I recall correctly the firing order may be the same as the 302 HO/351. I could look it up, but I'll just let someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Usually the rad is way bigger so you might have to take a saw to the center of your rad saddle but the main thing is it fits and your truck will (or can be made to) run it.
If'n you never had a big block before, I can tell you this about that : a 460 doesn't care that your truck weighs more than a Mustang - it'll pick it up and throw it down the highway like it weighs nothing.
Everyone should have that much fun at least once.
Had my share of big blocks. They do stuff stock that you have to fight like hell to get out of a small block. With very little effort.
429 was my personal favourite. Power, torque and revs like heck.
460 is a stroked, (de-tuned) 429 basically. With a little tuning mileage isn't nearly as bad as you would think if you keep your foot out of it. It doesn't really have to work that hard to push your truck down the highway. And doesn't seem to care if you have a boat hooked to the back or not.
The frame perches for the motor mounts are very similar but different in that they have holes for 4 bolts instead of 2. And your transmission bolt pattern are totally different.
But fuel pressure requirements are the same and if I recall correctly the firing order may be the same as the 302 HO/351. I could look it up, but I'll just let someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Usually the rad is way bigger so you might have to take a saw to the center of your rad saddle but the main thing is it fits and your truck will (or can be made to) run it.
If'n you never had a big block before, I can tell you this about that : a 460 doesn't care that your truck weighs more than a Mustang - it'll pick it up and throw it down the highway like it weighs nothing.
Everyone should have that much fun at least once.
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/460...uctinfo/30907/
I would need a BB ZF5. Not my first choice of transmission but I only have one if I want a manual, so it is what it is. Apparently there is also a clearance issue with one of the manifolds so headers might be necessary. Since I have a 94 I would think that I would want to get a 460/ZF5 computer from a 94 or 95 to keep maximum wiring compatibility. Fairly certain the engine harness and the computer is all I need to swap out wiring wise - all the rest should be compatible.
The gas core supports and radiators are the same, I think - we were trying to compare the radiators even though mine was still in the truck, and mine is at least as thick as the 460 rad. I'm petty sure my radiator fan is even bigger than the 460 one. Regardless, if we have issues, I have his gas core support, and I might end up switching it out anyways because the one area of rust I can find on my truck is on the core support mount on the passenger side, and his is clean.
Gonna do the pan gasket and timing cover gasket on it this weekend. To be continued....