Seth

New FPR same problem.

ymeski56

As mentioned, could be inadequate Vac to FPR.

You said you had a code reader. Got codes?

Seth

Getting codes; 31, 67, 85, 95(x2) on koeo

Getting: 21, 22, 41, 31 on koer test

Seth

May have found the problem.

Seth

My headers caused one of my vacuum lines to the map sensor to melt a hole in it. Going to patch that and report back with the results. I check for vacuum leaks but didn't check in the line it's self just the rubber fittings on the ends.

Seth

Seems to have fixed my main issue. Now just working on getting minor things lined out

ymeski56

Which reduced Vac supply to both FPR & MAP/ Both part of fuel trim, FPR more so.

Seth

Vacuum was completely gone on the map. The line that had the hole was the main line to the map. It's still got a slight miss so I'm looking at other things like injectors. I am reason to believe this because I unplugged 3 of them while running and my idle didn't change between any of them so I'm considering that could be the culprit. Not necessarily not working but just not a good spray pattern. Thoughts?

ymeski56

Not sure how accurate your Code results are, as you are running a harness not completely compatible w/ the engine & PCM.

But let's start w/ KOER Code 21 which I believe is fully valid: ECT (Electronic Coolant Temp Sensor) out fo range. You will see this for one of two reasons.

1. You failed to pre-warm the engine prior to preforming the KOER test.
2. Your ECT sensor is bad, which keeps the engine in an over rich "Warm up" mode, unable to enter closed loop function, where regarding fuel trim & more, the PCM function can begin.

Because the code was not listed as a KOEO (KeyOnEngine Off) code, thinking you failed to allow the engine to reach normal op temp prior to preforming the test.

Please don't go out & buy a new ECT sensor if you failed to pre-warm engine (Although they're not very expensive). You already bought a FPR you didn't need. Read what I Post, & reply w/ as much info as you can. Especially answer any questions I ask.

Best MPG prior to this new problem?

A miss is "usually" most likely spark, but fuel is as close the second reason as you can get. Let's start w/ fuel. Specifically quality of fuel atomization provided by the injectors.

Have you been using a fuel system/ injection cleaner w/ any regularity on this engine?

Seth

I put new plugs and wires on when I put the new engine in. The cap and rotor were still in good shape and the contacts were still shiny on those.

I don't believe I had the engine to operating temperature. I'll check it tomorrow when I go back to work after driving it to town and it should be back to working status.

I did get the timing set to factory spec and it seems to be running better.

I can't say for the past 6 some odd years as to what's been run in it. I will be getting some seafoam and putting in the tank tomorrow along with some good gas.

What pound are the factory 302 injectors? Reason I ask is because when we installed this engine we took injectors off the 302 and the 351 and tested each one and used 8 of the ones that were working and seemed to flow better than the others. I've been reading around and it seems that the 302 may have had grey top 14 pound injectors and the 351 orange top 19 pound injectors. If that's the case I may go ahead and get some new type 2 injectors that have the 4 orifice tip instead of the single one that is likely in there now. I'm just reading things and am looking for advice and verification on what others have written before.

Also mileage is unknown before the problem as it had been nearly a year since I drove it and I never really cared for checking the mileage cause I knew it was bad