302 oxygen sensor
07-20-2010, 12:18 PM
#21
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Truecountry: Thanks for the link. After looking throught that info last night, I already have a better idea of hoe this system "thinks". Lots of good info.
Willtransco: Thanks for the detailed info. I would not doubt if you are right about it.
The hoses are definitely old and that may be the root of my problems...
As far as the vaccuum canister goes, when I first looked under the hood after I bought it, I thought it was a coffee can someone had rigged up! It looks just like one. Thanks for giving me direction. I have a feeling you're on the right track with this. Thanks again-
Willtransco: Thanks for the detailed info. I would not doubt if you are right about it.
The hoses are definitely old and that may be the root of my problems...
As far as the vaccuum canister goes, when I first looked under the hood after I bought it, I thought it was a coffee can someone had rigged up! It looks just like one. Thanks for giving me direction. I have a feeling you're on the right track with this. Thanks again-
07-20-2010, 03:05 PM
#23
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Sure wouldn't hurt. I usually get wrapped up in the ignition system & forget to mention the benefits of a minimum restricted exhaust system. I actually ditched the two cat system for a single hi capacity Cat w/ a non restricted glass pac before it did the ignition upgrade on my truck.
07-20-2010, 03:08 PM
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I was hoping this would be my final post and wrap this issue up.
Instead, I have come full circle.
This whole quest started with my truck idling weird.
I posted this and got no reply, but I was vague and had no direction: https://www.f150forum.com/f10/old-tr...problem-57848/
To save you reading it, I'll tell you the idle goes up and down on its own.
I can be sitting in P or D for that matter at a dead stop and it will rev on its own.
Driving while it is happening is really interesting.
It just feels like a choke is turning on and off with no rhyme or reason.
Engine hot or cold, rain or shine - whenever.
The truck is also able to go for stretches without the issue.
This temporarily cleared up yesterday after I changed the O2 sensor.
I thought that had to be it.
Today I put the new distributor cap on and took a test drive- ran great.
Did the Seafoam treatment. Lots of smoke. Looks like it did a good job.
Driving it after the Seafoam treatment to get the last of the smoke out, it felt like it used to.
I am not blaming the Seafoam. It is obviously something else.
It's an interesting product and I enjoyed reading up on it.
The sad part is that all of these steps I have taken have made it better and better.
I finally got to feel this truck run the way it is supposed to.
Now I KNOW what is CAN run like. So, in a way that is a breakthrough.
I am now completely stumped. Has anyone experienced the same symptoms?
What else would cause it to vary the rpms like that?
I sure appreciate all the help I have received and I hope someone has seen this before.
Thanks
Instead, I have come full circle.
This whole quest started with my truck idling weird.
I posted this and got no reply, but I was vague and had no direction: https://www.f150forum.com/f10/old-tr...problem-57848/
To save you reading it, I'll tell you the idle goes up and down on its own.
I can be sitting in P or D for that matter at a dead stop and it will rev on its own.
Driving while it is happening is really interesting.
It just feels like a choke is turning on and off with no rhyme or reason.
Engine hot or cold, rain or shine - whenever.
The truck is also able to go for stretches without the issue.
This temporarily cleared up yesterday after I changed the O2 sensor.
I thought that had to be it.
Today I put the new distributor cap on and took a test drive- ran great.
Did the Seafoam treatment. Lots of smoke. Looks like it did a good job.
Driving it after the Seafoam treatment to get the last of the smoke out, it felt like it used to.
I am not blaming the Seafoam. It is obviously something else.
It's an interesting product and I enjoyed reading up on it.
The sad part is that all of these steps I have taken have made it better and better.
I finally got to feel this truck run the way it is supposed to.
Now I KNOW what is CAN run like. So, in a way that is a breakthrough.
I am now completely stumped. Has anyone experienced the same symptoms?
What else would cause it to vary the rpms like that?
I sure appreciate all the help I have received and I hope someone has seen this before.
Thanks
However, the IAC is a valve, and won't present a code if it's bad. But their is an easy way to check it at warm idle. Unplug it, & if the idle is not affected drastically, it's bad. It's usually a good idea to remove & clean before testing.http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=39
So far, everything has been basic maintenance items. But now's where you could waste some money by not doing your homework & replace parts that are unwarrented.
A bad TPS will usually produce an error code if bad.
A Vac leak is still very suspect!
Last edited by ymeski56; 07-20-2010 at 03:37 PM.
07-20-2010, 09:44 PM
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Truecountry: Thanks for the link. After looking throught that info last night, I already have a better idea of hoe this system "thinks". Lots of good info.
no thanks need bro the smiling man ymeski56 showed me this link and helped me get my truck running but its not just him its all the guys and some gals here that have the knowledge (internet searches) or books or even had these problems and are here to help out .. hope your truck runs great after you figure out whats wrong and please tell us we are dieing to know................my ole 88 ford is hardly broke in just 126,000 miles ... noway carbon can build up in it my right foot wont let it and seafoam
no thanks need bro the smiling man ymeski56 showed me this link and helped me get my truck running but its not just him its all the guys and some gals here that have the knowledge (internet searches) or books or even had these problems and are here to help out .. hope your truck runs great after you figure out whats wrong and please tell us we are dieing to know................my ole 88 ford is hardly broke in just 126,000 miles ... noway carbon can build up in it my right foot wont let it and seafoam
07-21-2010, 02:08 AM
#26
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ymeski56: You're right everything up until now has pretty much been maintenance. Now is not the time to "guess" at parts.
I did not get a chance to mess with it today, but I plan to check for codes tomorrow.
I'll look around at those old hoses for a leak, too.
I'll check in and let you know what I found...
I did not get a chance to mess with it today, but I plan to check for codes tomorrow.
I'll look around at those old hoses for a leak, too.
I'll check in and let you know what I found...
07-21-2010, 02:21 AM
#27
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ymeski56: You're right everything up until now has pretty much been maintenance. Now is not the time to "guess" at parts.
I did not get a chance to mess with it today, but I plan to check for codes tomorrow.
I'll look around at those old hoses for a leak, too.
I'll check in and let you know what I found...
I did not get a chance to mess with it today, but I plan to check for codes tomorrow.
I'll look around at those old hoses for a leak, too.
I'll check in and let you know what I found...
It takes a little longer than writing a check to a shop, but your learning alot doing it yourself & I guarantee you'll save money. Once you get some codes we should be able to figure this out.To begin w/, all you need is your KOEO (Key on engine off) scan results. We need to deal w/ those active error codes before anything else. You'll get those & continuous memory codes first. KOER (Key on engine running) error code may not be accurate before these are taken care of first.
I recommend the digital display code reader for two reasons. 1. It's plug & play for fast, easy results. 2. The Manual that comes w/ it makes it easier to understand the whole process.
If you want to try the manual method, "JCMS" wrote a great thread at the top of the page that will get you through it.
Last edited by ymeski56; 07-21-2010 at 03:33 AM.
07-21-2010, 06:07 PM
#28
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Thanks ymeski56.
Yes its quicker to write a check but I hate to do that when I want to do it myself- and save a dollar. I couldn't do it without the help I've gotten here. So another humble thanks-
I might look into a code reader, but meanwhile I was able to do it manually.
Here's what I got:
First set of numbers (I believe this is KOEO) : 23
long pause
Second set of numbers (I think this is CM) : 53 , 33
You probably have this memorized, but here is what I think they translate into:
23 KOEO- Closed throttle TPS voltage higher or lower than expected
53 CM- TPS circuit has intermittently failed above maximum 4.5 volts
33 CM- EGR valve opening not detected
I looked at the vaccuum hoses. They are all old, but mostly in good shape.
I did not see any obvious cracks or holes.
I wanted to see where these codes lead before opening another can of worms.
SO..... what do you decipher with these numbers?
Thanks again!
Yes its quicker to write a check but I hate to do that when I want to do it myself- and save a dollar. I couldn't do it without the help I've gotten here. So another humble thanks-
I might look into a code reader, but meanwhile I was able to do it manually.
Here's what I got:
First set of numbers (I believe this is KOEO) : 23
long pause
Second set of numbers (I think this is CM) : 53 , 33
You probably have this memorized, but here is what I think they translate into:
23 KOEO- Closed throttle TPS voltage higher or lower than expected
53 CM- TPS circuit has intermittently failed above maximum 4.5 volts
33 CM- EGR valve opening not detected
I looked at the vaccuum hoses. They are all old, but mostly in good shape.
I did not see any obvious cracks or holes.
I wanted to see where these codes lead before opening another can of worms.
SO..... what do you decipher with these numbers?
Thanks again!
07-24-2010, 12:29 AM
#30
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SUCCESS!
This thread should have been renamed "Bad TPS".
Chelios nailed that one.
I ended up buying a Haynes Manual (which I was a little disappointed in - This forum has been more help..)
and took the whole throttle body off.
It was quite the puzzle. One step at a time.
Once inside, you should have seen the GUNK!
Oh it was terrible. I used 2 cans of carb cleaner and got it cleaned up nice.
I also cleaned the EGR while I had it apart with carb cleaner.
I replaced the EGR and TB gaskets as well as the TPS.
It runs like it's supposed to! Wow.
Night and day. Solid idle. Good acceleration. Strong instead of weak feeling.
After test driving, I checked error codes: 1 - 1
It took me 5 hours because this was as deep as I have been yet.
There were moments I wished I hadn't even started.
And I dropped a screw TWICE and had to retrieve it the hard way.
But i learned a heck of a lot about this engine.
It takes a lot of the mystery out of it now.
And most of all there is a sense of accomplishment when you turn the key and everything is right.
I have a feeling I saved a chunk of change, too.
In closing, the guy at Advance told me that when they sit for a long period, the brushes in the TPS tend to go bad. This truck had sat before I got it, so there is the reason.
A big thanks to everyone that helped me out.
One last question...
After seeing how bad the intake was, I want to Seafoam it again to get in there deep where I could not reach. But I just did it a few days ago.
Do you see any harm doing it again this soon?
This thread should have been renamed "Bad TPS".
Chelios nailed that one.
I ended up buying a Haynes Manual (which I was a little disappointed in - This forum has been more help..)
and took the whole throttle body off.
It was quite the puzzle. One step at a time.
Once inside, you should have seen the GUNK!
Oh it was terrible. I used 2 cans of carb cleaner and got it cleaned up nice.
I also cleaned the EGR while I had it apart with carb cleaner.
I replaced the EGR and TB gaskets as well as the TPS.
It runs like it's supposed to! Wow.
Night and day. Solid idle. Good acceleration. Strong instead of weak feeling.
After test driving, I checked error codes: 1 - 1
It took me 5 hours because this was as deep as I have been yet.
There were moments I wished I hadn't even started.
And I dropped a screw TWICE and had to retrieve it the hard way.
But i learned a heck of a lot about this engine.
It takes a lot of the mystery out of it now.
And most of all there is a sense of accomplishment when you turn the key and everything is right.
I have a feeling I saved a chunk of change, too.
In closing, the guy at Advance told me that when they sit for a long period, the brushes in the TPS tend to go bad. This truck had sat before I got it, so there is the reason.
A big thanks to everyone that helped me out.
One last question...
After seeing how bad the intake was, I want to Seafoam it again to get in there deep where I could not reach. But I just did it a few days ago.
Do you see any harm doing it again this soon?