AbbadonTD

1995 F150 5.0 V8


That is my engine running. You will hear idle issues. It comes close, but does not stall. It used to stall, but I just cleaned the Throttle body. I am about to swap the IAC. Sound like the problem?


This is the spring coming from the throttle. It seems very loose, should it be tighter?


This is my serpentine belt. I have asked about it being tight enough. I cant tell, and you can see the Tentioner pulley move when I press the belt. Should I consider replacing the pulley?

There may be codes to pull - I have not yet since I have to learn to, this is my first OBD1. The Check light used to come on and off during stalls, it does not come on now.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

There's a sticky at the top of the page on checking codes. Pretty simple, just follow the instructions. I've found it's a lot simpler if someone else writes the numbers down as you call them out - that way you don't take your eyes off the check engine light and wonder if you missed a flash or not.
If the belt's not slipping it doesn't have to be tighter. You might want to read the part # off the belt and just make sure it's the correct one for your truck.
Replacing the IAC won't hurt but if you don't need it ? The computer will tell you what's malfunctioning or at least get you looking at the right parts.

fltdriver

Not sure about anyone else's but I can't move my Tens Pulley by pushing the belt like that, I actually have to have good position on it to move it with a ratchet. I may be seeing things but it looks to me like the idler pulley quit moving for a split second a few times in the first video. Pop the belt off and check idler pulley by hand, it should be very easy to turn and have no resistance and not make any noise when spinning by hand.

Pull your codes and record the lights and post the video. Usually IAC causes high idles, which will run better with it unplugged, easy to test, just unplug it, if it runs better unplugged than it probably needs replaced.

AbbadonTD

Pulled Codes: got 121, 122, and 128, 122 engine running.

I put the new TPS on yesterday, and I run great.
[I pull code 111 now, that's good right?]

I did a new IAC for the sake of argument. Also, my throttle was FILTHY. I cleaned it up when I had it off, and she purrs nicely now.

Still feel like that belt tension is very loose. I pulled the belt and the tensioner pulley feels fine, I just think the spring could be tighter. I think they replaced the belt but not the tensioner, and its just not as tight as a new one would be.

fltdriver

The drive belt is just as important as anything ignition related for you engine to run properly. Loose belts will not only lead to bad batteries (or dying from not enough power) but also can lead to catastrophic engine failure, such as blown gaskets and cracked heads because the water pump won't be getting turned properly which will eventually lead to overheating. I would def. recommend replacing the tensionor as soon as you are able to. If the pulley spins freely and with no sound when you spin it (grinding type noise) then you can just get a new tensionor, I would suggest replacing the whole unit but if you want to save money it's an option. Also check out the idler pulley, I usually replace those with every belt, they are cheap, easy to do, and a bad or worn pulley can lower mpg and put strain on the belt, so if it looks newer then it's probably good but if you can tell it's more than a few years old might as well do it with the tensionor.

Crownman

I watched all the videos.

1. If the truck is an automatic then it has a mass air setup. You need to put the intake hose back on. With it off you've taken the mass air out of the equation. Without the mass air the computer doesn't know how much air is coming in so it'll run like crap.

2. The throttle return spring is fine. They aren't very stiff to begin with. Put a little lube on it and the throttle body spring and it should work smooth as butter.

3. I've installed OEM Ford tensioners that I could move by putting pressure on the belt. If the tensioner still lines up correctly with the other pullies, the belt is not squealing, slipping, or being thrown off at high rpm then the tensioner is fine. I wouldn't worry about it.

AbbadonTD

Thank you on the spring, I just only have this engine, and ones online and in books. I have not been side by side with another to see whats "neat" on mine vs another truck.

Its a manual, I removed the hoses to check the throttle for cleanliness.

The TPS replacement, IAC, Cleaned the throttle body (since I have to pull it to do the TPS anyway...) and everything runs great. I have been driving for a few days now, smooth and perfect. I picked up a new tensioner pulley because I found it cheap (26 bucks for a Gates, NEW), so I may put it in for just that reason.

The previous owner had battery issues, but I think its because he forgot to put the key all the way back to off, since I can start the truck and remove the key, and it keeps running. I think he left it in ACC when he parked. He actually kept a float charger attached all the time, with an extension cord running out to the garage. Kept the battery good, but in a interesting way...