Topic Sponsor
1987 - 1996 F150 Still running strong! Talk about your 8th and 9th generation Ford F150 trucks.

2wd Front Suspension Rebuild Time - On average

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-16-2014, 09:12 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
qdeezie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 2,638
Received 241 Likes on 174 Posts

Default 2wd Front Suspension Rebuild Time - On average

So, I've parked my truck for the last 6 weeks or so because the front suspension is making noises I don't like and I did not feel connected to the road anymore, so basically, it's time to rebuild the entire front end.

Good thing for me when I first bought the truck, I started collecting parts to do so, but I'm just now getting around to doing it.

My question here is on average, using air tools, how long would it take to rip the entire front end out and install the new parts?

I know it varies from person to person, but I'm looking for people to give me some sort of idea on the turnaround time.

My free time right now is very limited and I'm considering paying someone to do the work for me if it's too time consuming.

As far as what my rebuild will consist of, I will be replacing upper/lower ball joints, the steering gear box, pivot and control arm bushings, tie rod sleeves, tie rods, springs, etc.

Basically I want to rip the guts out of the front end and go back with as much new as possible.

Any thoughts on how long of a job this is?
Old 05-16-2014, 10:06 PM
  #2  
It's a Canadian thing eh!
 
sylver91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Ontario, living across a hay field
Posts: 6,539
Received 195 Likes on 188 Posts

Default

Steering box, about an 1.5 hrs I'd say.

Ball joints, 3 hours by the time its taken apart and put back together.

Pivot bushings maybe 45 min to and hour.

Tie rods about an hour. I say this because the adjustment sleeves don't always come off easily. You will need an alignment afterwards.

Radius arm bushings 2 hours. Extra 1.5 hrs if doing factory brackets with rivets.

Springs 45 min easy.

Going off the top of my head from previous experiences. Remember you can't use heat on steering components either.
The following users liked this post:
qdeezie (05-17-2014)
Old 05-17-2014, 05:23 PM
  #3  
Nick
 
N.F-150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 222
Received 18 Likes on 17 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by sylver91
Remember you can't use heat on steering components either.
I learned something today! why is that?
Old 05-17-2014, 11:26 PM
  #4  
It's a Canadian thing eh!
 
sylver91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Ontario, living across a hay field
Posts: 6,539
Received 195 Likes on 188 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by N.F-150
I learned something today! why is that?
You will warp or weaken the part heated for one. Say you used heat to get a ball joint out, a ball joint is pressed in and if the knuckle is heated the ballpoint wont seat properly or may crack it. Same goes for spring steel like the coil springs and leafs, don't apply heat directly to it because is specially heat treated.
Old 05-18-2014, 02:15 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Snaggletooth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Louisiana, USA
Posts: 2,941
Received 95 Likes on 89 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by sylver91

You will warp or weaken the part heated for one. Say you used heat to get a ball joint out, a ball joint is pressed in and if the knuckle is heated the ballpoint wont seat properly or may crack it. Same goes for spring steel like the coil springs and leafs, don't apply heat directly to it because is specially heat treated.
Well that's good to know
Old 05-18-2014, 10:53 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Chris_1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,811
Received 708 Likes on 671 Posts

Default

Considering how extensive a rebuild you're planning, it is amazingly simple to go one step further. Depending on how rusty your bolts are of course, undoing the pivot end of the I-beams (2 bolts) allows you to drop everything out from under the truck. You can then work on it much easier.I thought it would be a big major event but it's not. You also don't have to grind out the rivets on the radius arm brackets that way.
And No, you shouldn't apply heat to your I-beams or springs, but it's OK to heat the nuts and bolts (just don't get too carried away)
Old 05-18-2014, 11:23 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
qdeezie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 2,638
Received 241 Likes on 174 Posts

Default

This is all good information. If there's any other tips or tricks that might help me out, let me know.
Old 05-18-2014, 12:18 PM
  #8  
Drive like you stole it
 
Rusty but trusty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Where the snow/salt is
Posts: 884
Received 70 Likes on 66 Posts

Default

Be sure your beer fridge is stocked and go for it! Try to measure and set your tie rods close to the same length so that your not fighting the wheel on the way to the alignment shop when you are all done. And don't blow off the alignment even if it drives great. I've seen people do it and then wonder why their tires are wearing funny.
Old 05-18-2014, 06:00 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Chris_1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,811
Received 708 Likes on 671 Posts

Default

A good thing to do is go around under there now with a good penetrating oil (I found one called "releaseall" that I've had good luck with - and I'm in Ontario w/ salt). Do your radius arm bolts, your spring hold down nuts, your shock bolts, your I-beam pivot bolts, ball joints, tie rods and sleeves - basically everything that's coming undone. Give them a shot every day for a few days and you should be able to unbolt the whole thing and yank it out of there in 2 pieces, then disassemble it where it's easier to get at.
Old 05-18-2014, 09:51 PM
  #10  
Hi-Rev Motorsports
 
dr_bowtie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 4,898
Likes: 0
Received 63 Likes on 62 Posts

Default

put the balljoints in the freezer the day before you start the replacement... pull the whole spindle and clean the areas and pull the snap rings... beat the old joints out and clean the spindle...

the frozen balljoints will plop right in the hole without a press and being hammered in...

I use a Vice and a pipe and a mini-sledge... opent he vice a tad wider than the balljoint and set the spindle on the vice... use the pipe and sledge to drive it out...comes out pretty easy.

I can usually replace all 4 balljoints in 1 hour


Quick Reply: 2wd Front Suspension Rebuild Time - On average



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:40 AM.