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1996 Ford F150 - 165k - rebuild front suspension

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Old 02-05-2018, 08:49 PM   #11
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I've tried to buy from RA several times, but their shipping is just ludicrous. Amazon, eBay, & even local parts stores blow RA out of the water for me. In any case, shop around.
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Old 02-05-2018, 09:32 PM   #12
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Well, just for hell of it, here is a direct example of what I am talking about. Obviously it depends on what you order - but overall, this is a general trend.



They also have a set of headers I am looking at - pacesetter ceramic coated shorties for less than $300 shipped that I cannot find for anywhere else for less than $425.

So if you gave up on them awhile ago, I recommend revisiting
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Old 02-09-2018, 04:23 AM   #13
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In my mind, is it worth waiting a few days for parts and paying less or having them sooner through amazon and paying a bit more. Doesn't really matter anyway because my next day off work is at least another week away!

1996 FORD F-150 5.0L V8
Brake & Wheel Hub : Wheel BearingRelated PartsTIMKEN SET37 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Manual Trans; Bearing and RaceInfo
Front Inner; 4WD$9.61$19.22TIMKEN SET45 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Manual Trans; Bearing and RaceInfo
Front Outer; 4WD$8.65$17.30Brake & Wheel Hub : Wheel SealRelated PartsTIMKEN 710430 {#F5TZ1190AA} Info
Front Inner; 4WD$14.75 $29.50 Suspension : Ball JointRelated PartsMOOG K8195T {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Problem Solver Info
Front Lower; 4WD$22.79 $45.58 MOOG K80026 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Problem Solver Info
Front Upper; 4WD$26.89 $53.78Suspension : Shock AbsorberRelated PartsKYB 344076 GR-2 / Excel-G Info
Front; 4WD; Quad Shock Option; Frontward Mounting of the Front Axle
1 Day Delay$24.79 $99.16
Sorry for the terrible formatting. That is $264 and change, still need to find springs and maybe that set of bushings for 155.

Had to park the truck, riding the Kawasaki to work for now I guess. I've been trying to figure out what bearings are needed, if they are all the same or if the inner and outer are different. Also dust shields are on the inside only? I figured an older truck like this would be a little more simple, I'm used to Subaru's which are like Lego's and every part fits on every other model. (basically anyway...) Also when I recently had an alignment, and then right after (like 10 minutes) my wheel bearing exploded, the guy at the alignment shop said I needed a camber adjustment plate. Or nut, or eccentric. Or whatever. Basically I have a lot of research to do and very little time.
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Old 02-09-2018, 01:17 PM   #14
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Nearly everything you need to know about doing the job, including Amazon links to most of the parts, is in those photo albums. Camber on these trucks is NOT adjusted with a plate, or nut. As shown in those pics, it takes a cam bushing on the upper BJ.
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Old 02-09-2018, 01:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
Nearly everything you need to know about doing the job, including Amazon links to most of the parts, is in those photo albums. Camber on these trucks is NOT adjusted with a plate, or nut. As shown in those pics, it takes a cam bushing on the upper BJ.
Copy that!
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Old 02-13-2018, 04:49 PM   #16
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An update for you fellas,
Yesterday I ordered basically a full rebuild kit for the front suspension and steering. The whole front end is basically toast, the brakes are toast, the BJ's, tie rods, everything. I honestly don't know how it got so bad, its not like I was running into things all the time. Anyway, parts are on the way. Should be here by friday and then maybe I can get some pics of the carnage for you guys.

I did end up going to Les Schawb's (a tire and alignment shop) for an inspection and a quote to repair these issues and it came out to about 1400 for the BJ's, tie rods, alignment sleeves and the alignment labor. The brake job came to 550, new calipers, rotors and pads installed on only the front. Bearings would be another 150 if they were bad. And a set of quad shocks installed was going to be 550. Needless to say I'm going to do the work myself.

Their parts - which I did cross reference on amazon and RA were about 2 or 3 times as expensive. The things they quoted me that I didn't buy from RA were new calipers and new seals for calipers. I'm not sure whether I should try and get a rebuild kit for them or what. Anyway, it pays to do some research on parts I guess.
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Old 02-13-2018, 06:56 PM   #17
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I've only seen 1 bad caliper on these trucks (out of DOZENS of trucks, including many in JYs). Ford does not recommend replacing calipers, or any other part of the hydraulic system, unless there's a specific fault in it. Ford specifically recommends NOT opening the hydraulic system except for necessary REPAIRS - not maintenance. If your calipers are working, there's no reason to replace OR rebuild them, other than to run up the bill.

New or reman calipers should not need additional seals, unless you're talking about 4 inexpensive Copper sealing washers for the banjo fittings, but those should come with the calipers.

You should get some brake grease, though. It's the most-overlooked thing in a brake job, and it's VERY effective at keeping the brakes working smoothly & reliably for many years. Read the captions in that album about where & how to apply it.
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:57 PM   #18
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You are missing spindle bearings and seals, brake pads, front axle u joints, and depending on how FUBAR'd things really are, the inner tie rods. Radius and sway bar bushings and links would be a good thing to pickup too. And springs. I could keep spending your money if you want....hehe
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Old 02-18-2018, 03:07 AM   #19
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alright! tore into the beast today with the help of my little brother and cousins. it was a great time actually. I've seriously neglected doing some routine maintenance but it feels good to get things back in order.
Had a few issues with the hub retaining nut. No local store knew what the tool was or where to find it. I bought a 2.5" hex socket and then we found a 2.375 (2 3/8ths for you non machinists). Both didn't fit and we were able to get the ring off with some small screwdrivers. The brakes were atrocius. Way past their replacement date and the inside of the passenger side caliper was nearly worn to the middle of the brake rotor. And damn the spindles were a chore to divorce from the hubs. The inner tie rods look O.K. but I'll probably swap them out shortly. I only bought new brake rotors and so I'll probably head to the ol' horror fraught tomorrow and buy a press. I have spent a few dollars on tools so far but I'd rather spend that money on tools that I'll continue to use than pay for shop rates at the auto shop. Everything goes back in tomorrow hopefully. Is it possible to press in ball joints with a shop press and what is the best way to do it? I'm sure there are tons of threads and videos on youtube which I'll be looking at right after this post but I just figured I'd ask anyway... Cheers!
James
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Old 02-18-2018, 10:05 AM   #20
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Wow that rotor is one for the books!

I have never used a shop press for ball joints but I imagine it can be done with the right receivers and adaptors. I would worry about damaging the knuckles if done wrong. I always rented a BJ press from the local auto store and used an impact wrench.

The spindles were a total %^&*$ on mine too. They actually sell a spindle puller tool that threads right on to the spindle which can then be threaded to a slidehammer. Two, maybe three pops and off she comes. I have one of those in my toolbox now, even though I probably will never use it again.
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