1995 F150 351 turns over but does not start.
12-01-2014, 08:36 PM
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1995 F150 351 turns over but does not start.
So I just got this truck a back in August and till now hadn't had a single problem. I sold a 2005 F350 6.0l diesel cause we needed money and I was constantly having issues with it. I've owned a few 5.0 mustangs so I told my fiancee I knew this engine family well, which I do but I'm still a little stumped and can't narrow it down to one thing that's keeping it from starting. It's also either been raining, snowing, or 6 degrees out lately so I haven't gotten that much time to trouble shoot but here's what I know so far.
About a week ago I drove out to a buddies house with no problems and a few hours later when I went to drive home it wouldn't start. Turns over just fine but doesn't fire at all. I pulled the #1 spark plug cable off, stuck a screw driver in there and held it near a ground and saw no spark. Next day I returned and cranked the motor a few times and pulled a plug to check if I was getting fuel and saw nothing to tell me it was getting any. I tried switching between fuel tanks and noticed I couldn't hear the pumps priming like usual. Next I pulled fuses to look for something blown but they were all good. I then hooked up a diagnostic tool to pull and erase codes. Only thing I saw was a code for the TPS but I don't remember which one it was. After erasing codes I decided to try it again. When I turned the key I heard the pumps prime and it started. After a few minutes the motor did do a quick surge but recovered quickly and a few minutes later of smooth idling I tried driving it home. Got about 8 miles away it started sputtering and loosing power with the check engine light coming on flashing till the point I couldn't keep it up to speed and pulled over and shut it down. She hasn't started since.
My diagnostic tool now will not complete a test, the fuel pumps are not making a sound again, and the battery is dead. The battery I'm assuming has to do with the temp since has dropped and one of the cells was very low on fluid. I have some ideas but nothing that accounts for everything that's going on. Anyone have any ideas?
About a week ago I drove out to a buddies house with no problems and a few hours later when I went to drive home it wouldn't start. Turns over just fine but doesn't fire at all. I pulled the #1 spark plug cable off, stuck a screw driver in there and held it near a ground and saw no spark. Next day I returned and cranked the motor a few times and pulled a plug to check if I was getting fuel and saw nothing to tell me it was getting any. I tried switching between fuel tanks and noticed I couldn't hear the pumps priming like usual. Next I pulled fuses to look for something blown but they were all good. I then hooked up a diagnostic tool to pull and erase codes. Only thing I saw was a code for the TPS but I don't remember which one it was. After erasing codes I decided to try it again. When I turned the key I heard the pumps prime and it started. After a few minutes the motor did do a quick surge but recovered quickly and a few minutes later of smooth idling I tried driving it home. Got about 8 miles away it started sputtering and loosing power with the check engine light coming on flashing till the point I couldn't keep it up to speed and pulled over and shut it down. She hasn't started since.
My diagnostic tool now will not complete a test, the fuel pumps are not making a sound again, and the battery is dead. The battery I'm assuming has to do with the temp since has dropped and one of the cells was very low on fluid. I have some ideas but nothing that accounts for everything that's going on. Anyone have any ideas?
Last edited by GoCougs!; 12-01-2014 at 08:39 PM.
12-01-2014, 08:43 PM
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Some basic stuff to start with is the connections to your ignition system and all the grounds you can find. Check the solenoid wire to make sure it's not shorting out somewhere. Trace your fuel pump wires to see if they are broken. Don't throw parts at it until you've looked at the simple stuff.
Speaking of new parts, have you replaced anything within the last year or two?
Speaking of new parts, have you replaced anything within the last year or two?
12-01-2014, 08:52 PM
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12-01-2014, 09:00 PM
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Do you know any of the maintenance history?
12-01-2014, 09:13 PM
#5
The basics ;
fuel - sufficient pressure ? You need a bare minimum of 30 psi (30 to 45 is the operating range, normal is 40 - 42). Having some fuel pressure at the fuel rail doesn't tell you what you need to know. 20 psi, it won't run.
Do the pumps prime for a second or two when you cycle the key ? (after the initial prime, the engine has to be running to get power to the pumps).
The relay for the fuel pump is in the relay box under the hood. You can try swapping relays with something else, or just try a new one. On occasion, the wire under neath the relay corrodes and that can be an issue.
The fuel pressure regulator is bolted on the fuel rail - a leaky diaphragm will give you a fuel smell in the vacuum line going to it.
Spark : coils and PIP's (distributor pickup module) can come and go intermittently on their way to dying completely. These particular ones are particularly well known for the PIP going out at around this age.
Using a spare spark plug grounded with a booster cable is a better way to see if you have a good spark.
TPS (throttle position sensor) can be tested with a voltmeter to ensure proper voltage and steady increase and decrease of same when the throttle is opened and closed. Problems with the TPS signal can shut down the injectors.
There's a few places to start. Get back to us with what you find.
fuel - sufficient pressure ? You need a bare minimum of 30 psi (30 to 45 is the operating range, normal is 40 - 42). Having some fuel pressure at the fuel rail doesn't tell you what you need to know. 20 psi, it won't run.
Do the pumps prime for a second or two when you cycle the key ? (after the initial prime, the engine has to be running to get power to the pumps).
The relay for the fuel pump is in the relay box under the hood. You can try swapping relays with something else, or just try a new one. On occasion, the wire under neath the relay corrodes and that can be an issue.
The fuel pressure regulator is bolted on the fuel rail - a leaky diaphragm will give you a fuel smell in the vacuum line going to it.
Spark : coils and PIP's (distributor pickup module) can come and go intermittently on their way to dying completely. These particular ones are particularly well known for the PIP going out at around this age.
Using a spare spark plug grounded with a booster cable is a better way to see if you have a good spark.
TPS (throttle position sensor) can be tested with a voltmeter to ensure proper voltage and steady increase and decrease of same when the throttle is opened and closed. Problems with the TPS signal can shut down the injectors.
There's a few places to start. Get back to us with what you find.
12-01-2014, 09:40 PM
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Do you know any of the maintenance history?
fuel - sufficient pressure ?
Do the pumps prime for a second or two when you cycle the key ?
Using a spare spark plug grounded with a booster cable is a better way to see if you have a good spark.
TPS (throttle position sensor) can be tested with a voltmeter to ensure proper voltage and steady increase and decrease of same when the throttle is opened and closed. Problems with the TPS signal can shut down the injectors.
Any idea on why my diagnostic tool is not able to complete a test anymore? I was hoping to pull a code since the check engine light looked like it was trying to communicate in morse code with me when it was loosing power on the way home.
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12-09-2014, 06:33 PM
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I've heard of the tfi module going bad but it's usually from heat and when it cools down the motor will start again.
Today I got a new battery and rebuild the ends of the battery cables since they were shot. I was able to successfully run another KOEO test and came up with a 00 and 10 codes which from what I've been able to figure out don't really mean anything. I also picked up some spark plugs and tried testing spark with them and still didn't see anything. To double check I opened the throttle body and sprayed a bit of starter fluid down there thinking if it were a fuel problem I should at least get it to sputter but still nothing. So I'm assuming I'm having an issue with the ignition right now. Any ideas on which route to take in trouble shooting it further?
Today I got a new battery and rebuild the ends of the battery cables since they were shot. I was able to successfully run another KOEO test and came up with a 00 and 10 codes which from what I've been able to figure out don't really mean anything. I also picked up some spark plugs and tried testing spark with them and still didn't see anything. To double check I opened the throttle body and sprayed a bit of starter fluid down there thinking if it were a fuel problem I should at least get it to sputter but still nothing. So I'm assuming I'm having an issue with the ignition right now. Any ideas on which route to take in trouble shooting it further?
12-09-2014, 06:40 PM
#10
Easy to check but look at the inertia switch to see if it has been tripped. You can also pull the plug in off it and run a jumper wire then see if the pumps run then