1994 Ford F-150 XLT stalling problem
#1
1994 Ford F-150 XLT stalling problem
Hi everyone, this is my first post and I've got a problematic problem with the engine stalling. I have a 1994 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 with a 5.0L V8 FI OHV. The following parts have been replaced so far.
- ECM
- Mass air flow sensor
- A.I.R check valve and pipe.
- Fule filter
The problem I'm having is that the engine runs great after these parts were replaced, but after driving about 15-20 minutes or 10-15 miles, the engine just will stop and I have to pull over. I let the engine set for 2-5 minutes and it starts right back up and I go for another 15-20 mins or 10-15 miles and it does the same thing again.
I have it at the shop right now and there looking at it again. I filled up the rear tank with Chevron Tekron and I'm thinking it shouldn't be the gas or gas line.
Anyone heard or experience this? Any and all suggestions welcome.
Thanks!
Mark
- ECM
- Mass air flow sensor
- A.I.R check valve and pipe.
- Fule filter
The problem I'm having is that the engine runs great after these parts were replaced, but after driving about 15-20 minutes or 10-15 miles, the engine just will stop and I have to pull over. I let the engine set for 2-5 minutes and it starts right back up and I go for another 15-20 mins or 10-15 miles and it does the same thing again.
I have it at the shop right now and there looking at it again. I filled up the rear tank with Chevron Tekron and I'm thinking it shouldn't be the gas or gas line.
Anyone heard or experience this? Any and all suggestions welcome.
Thanks!
Mark
#2
Senior Member
You are describing a classic case of a failing PIP sensor inside of the distributor. This is assuming you have good fuel pressure and that you have good spark from the coil to all plugs when it is running correctly.
Failing PIP causes intermittent loss of spark. When it fails and doesn't restart right away, there will be no spark from the coil. Eventually it "recovers" and you will het spark again which allows it to restart.
Other things to look at would be the ignition control module or the switch on the column.
Failing PIP causes intermittent loss of spark. When it fails and doesn't restart right away, there will be no spark from the coil. Eventually it "recovers" and you will het spark again which allows it to restart.
Other things to look at would be the ignition control module or the switch on the column.
The following users liked this post:
moverlease (03-14-2016)
#3
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Does sound like a PIP could be the culprit. You have to be prepared to check for spark when it dies.
Best way is to have a spare spark plug, plug it in to one of the wires and ground the plug with a booster cable.
Have everything ready then drive it till it dies and check for spark really quick.
It could also be the ICM but they don't usually go in and out like that.
Possibly a coil not working when it gets warm, but PIP is most likely.
Unless it turns out not to be a spark issue, then there will be other things to check.
If it is the PIP and you're having a garage do the work, the best thing to do is change the distributor - it won't make financial sense to pay them to change the PIP.
Best way is to have a spare spark plug, plug it in to one of the wires and ground the plug with a booster cable.
Have everything ready then drive it till it dies and check for spark really quick.
It could also be the ICM but they don't usually go in and out like that.
Possibly a coil not working when it gets warm, but PIP is most likely.
Unless it turns out not to be a spark issue, then there will be other things to check.
If it is the PIP and you're having a garage do the work, the best thing to do is change the distributor - it won't make financial sense to pay them to change the PIP.
The following 2 users liked this post by Chris_1:
HCON3 (03-31-2016),
moverlease (03-14-2016)
#5
Just changed out the Distributor and fixed the problem that has plagued me 2 weeks now. Had no spark at all when in no start mode almost ordered new brain but found this post and with nothing to loose followed Chris 1 advise and bite the bullet. Thank you all.
Last edited by HCON3; 03-31-2016 at 04:20 PM. Reason: spelling
#6
**UPDATE**
Got the truck back from the shop and after 8 hours of troubleshooting with diagnostics/computer, they worked with Ford in determining that the ECM was the wrong one and replaced with one that superseded the one that was installed. After that, they also found out the air mass flow sensor was defective and was replaced. They test drove three times before handing it back to me. I drove to work (35+ miles) and back, no stalls or hiccups!! Parts were warrantied and they didn't charge me for labor. Will go back to same shop in the future if needed. The trucks runs and sounds better than before this all started. I'm a happy camper!!
Got the truck back from the shop and after 8 hours of troubleshooting with diagnostics/computer, they worked with Ford in determining that the ECM was the wrong one and replaced with one that superseded the one that was installed. After that, they also found out the air mass flow sensor was defective and was replaced. They test drove three times before handing it back to me. I drove to work (35+ miles) and back, no stalls or hiccups!! Parts were warrantied and they didn't charge me for labor. Will go back to same shop in the future if needed. The trucks runs and sounds better than before this all started. I'm a happy camper!!
#7
I essentially have the same problem.
I have a 1993 F 150 XLT with the 5.0
It just started a week or so ago. I thought it was the fuel pump, but it does stalls with either tank.
My truck will run for 15-20 minutes and stall, but will not start for hours later. Not sure what the PIP on the distributor is or how too look it up for this truck. I hope it's not the ECM, those are a little pricey and how do you tell if it's bad?
One other thing. Not sure if this has anything to do with it missing sometime while cruising at 50-60mph.
Any help or advise would be appreciated.
Todd
I have a 1993 F 150 XLT with the 5.0
It just started a week or so ago. I thought it was the fuel pump, but it does stalls with either tank.
My truck will run for 15-20 minutes and stall, but will not start for hours later. Not sure what the PIP on the distributor is or how too look it up for this truck. I hope it's not the ECM, those are a little pricey and how do you tell if it's bad?
One other thing. Not sure if this has anything to do with it missing sometime while cruising at 50-60mph.
Any help or advise would be appreciated.
Todd
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Next time it stalls and doesn't restart right away check for spark. Failing PIP causes an intermittent loss of spark. Best way to replace PIP is to replace the distributor because you have to pull it anyways to replace the PIP.
This is asuming you have a healthy coil, cap, rotor, plugs and wires. And good fuel pressure.
There is also the possibility of a faulty ICM. You can get it tested at a local shop.
This is asuming you have a healthy coil, cap, rotor, plugs and wires. And good fuel pressure.
There is also the possibility of a faulty ICM. You can get it tested at a local shop.
The following users liked this post:
tface (04-05-2016)