When it won’t start, you have a strong spark?

 

I keep seeing timing being mentioned. If it were your timing, the engine wouldn't have run well for twenty minutes before croaking unless the timing chain/gear jumped. The engine will run at 10 degrees BTDC or at TDC. I would be looking elsewhere.

Again, check the basics..Fuel and spark.

 

In addition to checking fuel pressure and TPS operation, you might want to check the IAC. When you kept it running by feathering the throttle, you were doing the job of the IAC. Remove the connector and verify 7-13 ohms between IAC pins. Replace connector and back probe wires. With key on, red wire should be 12v, other wire is a PWM ground signal from the PCM. You can test it with a noid light or a meter that measures duty cycle (%).

 

Thanks for the info, i checked the conector with noid light, solid.

 

UPDATE: Here is where im at with a list of checks. Thank all of you for your assistance, you all have helped me out A LOT!
Checked timing again, ON POINT.
Checked and verified Fuel Pressure, after bleeding some air from the gauge, was 30-40psi, stayed steady at 40psi with key on.
Checked coil and spark, strong signal.
Checked the IAC pins, 11.4 then 12v with key on.
Pulled spark plug one to check compression, HAD SOME CARBON. (replace?) but could be from the constant cranking?
Inertia switch not tripped.
tried to get it running with some starter fluid, it wont turn over. ive got my firing order at 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
**i did see a report from Ford about VIN "N" updated firing order for 302 is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8? but would that cause a "no start"?
Cranked the engine a few times, wouldn't start, even with some starting fluid.
Where to go next?

 

The noid light needs to blink while cranking
Try a flood clear start
Verify strong spark

 

appreciate it, noid light goes SLIGHTLY dim when cranking, How do i try a flood clear start?
I had some carbon build up on plug "1", gonna pull em all and see what it looks like, if needed ill replace the wires (already have a set)
gonna try some other plugs too.

 

A "flood clear" start is where you floor the gas and then start it
That shuts the injectors off while you are at WOT (wide open throttle) and cranking

 

Stupid #
#1 on the cap tower right, not rotor pointing to #1 piston?
Seen a guy do that once..

Also cam gear timing
bottom gear dot at 12 & cam dot at #6, pointing to one another...

just making certain basics were done right.

Even if its timed at #10, try advancing the distributor while someone is trying to fire it off.

 

Yes, haha rotor pointing to "1" on the cap. We marked and double checked.
I've replaced the timing gears and chain, we did that all right so no worries there. Its just such a weird thing that the engine would run nice for 20 minutes and then die out and not start again.
and yes thinking of advancing to get her started up, at this point i think the old fuel is messing with the injectors causing an uneven spray. Or even clogged up.