1993 F-150 4.9 Bogging/vibration under load.
#21
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Don't look - listen:
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If you know the exhaust hanger is a problem, get it fixed. If you let it go, you could crack a manifold (which is expensive), or a cat (which is even more-expensive); and both waste LOTS of gas, and damage the engine by overloading the PCV system. Same for the trans - letting it go isn't helping it or you. I'd flush it with decent fluid, drive a few hundred miles, then change to MotorCraft MerconV, a new pan filter, and a new external filter:
(phone app link)
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If you know the exhaust hanger is a problem, get it fixed. If you let it go, you could crack a manifold (which is expensive), or a cat (which is even more-expensive); and both waste LOTS of gas, and damage the engine by overloading the PCV system. Same for the trans - letting it go isn't helping it or you. I'd flush it with decent fluid, drive a few hundred miles, then change to MotorCraft MerconV, a new pan filter, and a new external filter:
(phone app link)
#22
Both rear driveshaft U-Joints were replaced today, and the vibration still occurs. The balance on the driveshaft is good (it was checked) and there is no damage to any of its components. The new joints move smoothly as they should, no binding. The pinion is tight, and there does not appear to be any play in it or the transfer case end. All the transfer case bolts are tight. I'm not getting any clunk when shifting in and out of gear, and Im not getting any strange noises when getting on and then off the throttle at cruising speed or low speed.
A few more things to consider: The rattling in drive at a stop I described in an earlier post is the exhaust hanger aft of the secondary cat rattling because it rusted out and is hitting the exhaust. No big deal there.
When warm, the transmission "flares" when shifting, shifts seem a bit soft to what I am used to.
The Transmission fluid looks a bit dark, like old trans fluid. It is dirty. There are no particles floating in it, but it needs a change.
The truck Idles about 200-250 RPMs too high, I believe I have a small vac leak somewhere.
Any idea on where I should look next?
A few more things to consider: The rattling in drive at a stop I described in an earlier post is the exhaust hanger aft of the secondary cat rattling because it rusted out and is hitting the exhaust. No big deal there.
When warm, the transmission "flares" when shifting, shifts seem a bit soft to what I am used to.
The Transmission fluid looks a bit dark, like old trans fluid. It is dirty. There are no particles floating in it, but it needs a change.
The truck Idles about 200-250 RPMs too high, I believe I have a small vac leak somewhere.
Any idea on where I should look next?
#23
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These EECs can't detect misfires at all, or log any event. They can store codes for most of their circuits, sensors, & actuators; but the misfire sensor didn't appear until EEC-V ('96).
Last edited by Steve83; 12-14-2018 at 11:52 PM.
#24
Does the scanner you are using have the capability to log misfire events? If it does, I would pay attention to that in the specific conditions where you experience the problem. Absent that, my next inclination would be torque convertor locking/unlocking rapidly, causing the shudder sensation.
#25
This is fixed. The pan was dropped, no metal or clutch material just old fluid. Magnet was clean. Flushed the trans, cooler, lines, replaced all the fluid and added a cleaning additive and a new pan with a drain plug and new filter. ZERO vibration, the shifts are nice and crisp/positive as they should be. After 500 to 1000 miles, I'm doing a drain and refill of the fluid as im sure that the cleaner will continue to do its work. Truck drives great!
#26
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Ford & I recommend an external filter. I prefer Magnefine 5/16" & Gates ATF hose:
(phone app link)
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#27
Ford & I recommend an external filter. I prefer Magnefine 5/16" & Gates ATF hose:
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
Oh nice! That's awesome info. I've used that exact filter on my 94 Camaro, so I actually have a spare lying around here somewhere. I didnt know that ford recommended it. I'm thinking about using one of the Jegs external transmission coolers that have a mounted 500 CFM fan. I could put that in when I do the drain and re-fill along with the filter.
#28
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The factory coolers are sufficient, unless you're severely overloading the truck & trans. Adding all those connections adds more potential leak points. The filter only adds 2, but they're worth the risk. Putting another fan in front of the radiator won't really help anything.
#29
The factory coolers are sufficient, unless you're severely overloading the truck & trans. Adding all those connections adds more potential leak points. The filter only adds 2, but they're worth the risk. Putting another fan in front of the radiator won't really help anything.